what about a MAP sensor i had a tarus that did the same sorta thing and what was happening was it was telling the computer lean condition so the computer would dump more fuel to compensate it actually would start and then start chugging would smell fuel strongly and also dumped it in the crankcase to the point you could smell fuel on the oil dipstick

 

To a degree, not soaked but does have wet black soot. The oil smells like fuel only if I try working on it for a few hours. As stated above, it washes the oil out of the cylinders after repeated attempts. If this goes on for a bit, I will get fuel in the oil but not enough to dilute it.

 

In a sense for looking for leaks downstream of the TB? If that is the ?, the answer is no. But I did plug the inlets of the TB and the engine wouldn't even fire, just cranked over. I also tore the upper end off and replaced all the manifold gaskets to make sure I didn't mess one up. All 4 corners of the cork gaskets have RTV at the joints. I did not put a gauge on it to see what it was pulling while cranking tho.

 

No, throttle plate position makes no difference. The IAC opens and closes with key action. Also installed the one from the 302 to be sure. The TPS has no adjustment, only resistance check for range and smoothness, if anyone is going to go in that direction and it is new.

 

If I understand the system correctly, it's in the "Open Loop" during start up. Which means most of the sensors are not being used until the engine warms up. I put the 302 one on and made no difference and also had both tested. This was one good thing about having my old 302 around for parts if I had problems(which I do).

 

so taking out plugs depressurizes the engine enough to start over????? makes no sence

 

How's your Convertor?

 

If the gas is good and you got spark at the right time, it could be your cam timing. Are you positive the cam is not 180 out ? If it dont start on starting fluid ,somthing is way out. Im old school so not much help on the computer side. Does the cam have the 351 firing order if so does the computer need to be for that firing order ? Good Luck.

 

I've tried starting the engine with the exhaust completely removed from the heads. No Go.

 

Sounds like pressure isn' getting relieved from below. Check the oil pump.

 

1) I'd go back & verify these, are they motorcraft or aftermarket?

2) Did you just clean up the TB with approved cleaner? What about the adjustment screw, has it been adjusted?

3) just for sheets & giggles, how about throwing a degree wheel at it to check?

4) Describe overhaul.

 

1- The new parts are aftermarket(Napa). The original ones were working as far as measurements are concerned but it had 89,000 miles on it. They both measured the same and so did the one from the 302 engine. I have tried putting the other two back on.

2- I removed the IAC from the TB before cleaning. I read that some of the cleaners would ruin the rubber on the plunger. Nothing was disassembled or moved. Just cleaned out the bores and holes, then blew it dry with shop air. Reinstalled the IAC and gasket.

3- I don't have a degree wheel. I just checked by making sure I was coming up on compression stroke, put a screwdriver in spark plug hole to contact top of piston and followed it to the top while watching the timing marks on the harmonic balancer. When the piston stopped, I was at TDC. If I was a few degrees off, it shouldn't stop the engine from running but just be inadequate for setting the base timing when I get it to run.

4- Disassembled engine, took block to machine shop, had it cleaned and bored .030 over. New cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. Lifter galleys were cleaned and plugged with allen screws. Crank was still at standard dimensions, installed with new crank and rod bearings. Piston rod side clearance and end play in crank was normal. Installed new TRW .030 pistons and rings with correct end gaps and piston clearance. Installed CompCam SD camshaft(2nd teardown) with double row timing chain set and new lifters that came with the cam.

Heads were disassembled, cleaned, valve faces were good and lapped them back in their original position, installed new stem seals and original springs and keepers. Installed new freeze plugs. Installed heads with new gaskets. Pushrods were cleaned and installed with rocker arms in original positions. Installed new TRW oil pump, pan and oil filter. Put 6 quarts of oil in and prelubed the engine to make sure all the lifters were primed and oil was flowing. Installed valve covers.

Installed intake gaskets and lower manifold. Installed fuel injectors and fuel rail(has new regulator). Installed upper manifold and TB. Installed engine wiring harness and associated sensors.

Installed new motor mounts and flywheel. Installed engine in truck and accessories on front of engine, transmission and exhaust system up to CAT.

 

try replacing the coil. maybe it throws a few good sparks at first, but craps out when it gets good and warmed up..

 

Doesn't run long enough to get warm. Only about 3-5 seconds. After it dies and the timing light is still attach, it will flash while cranking.

 

Sorry, Should have been more specific. I was reffering to the overhauled injectors.

Sounds like an over all good rebuild of the engine.


My gut sez it is something in the pip circuit/ignition module of the distributor. The 2500 rpm is without benefit of your foot on the accelerator?