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Boys, I slapped a couple of fog lights in the back of the truck. 55w each.
Not bad at all but I might put 100w in them instead.
NOTE! They are NOT as bright as it seems here but there IS a lot of reflection in the camera lens and it IS hard to shoot this stuff with the camera I have.
Although you may want to do something else because the lights are only held by ONE screw so they do turn a little. It needs a two point attachment so if you do something classy, let me know please. Again you can put more powerful bulbs if you need it.
If I look out the side rear view mirrors, I see fine but through the inside mirror because it dims and through the rear with tinted window you can't see much anyway but through the sides, it's great.
Well i could manufacture something, possibly drill a second hole, if i had a welder i could tack it, I gotta get some cash to go spend on that but ill be sure to update you with it cause ill definately want it to be sturdy
Last edited by Jacob822; Aug 7, 2007 at 01:03 AM.
Reason: sent to soon
Well, my brackets ARE strong enough as these are very light and the good thing is that you CAN bend them by hand if you wanted to but again, it needs a TWO point attachment on the actual LIGHT.
Let me know what you come up with. Don't put it on your reverse lights or you might get in trouble.
Switches are 3-4 bucks at advance auto and they have an LED so you know they're on.
no can do im in washington, i do everything myself anyway, its gonna be a while before i do this to my truck but ill be sure to post some stuff up when i do it.
I picked up a pair at AutoZone for like $9. They're a little smaller, but they came with an angled bracket and large zip ties that just wrpaed around the hidden hitch bar. I simply jumped them form the stock reverse lights, but I'm thniking about adding a switch and a separate hot lead with a little bigger gauage wire.
If I get a chance, I'll snap some pics and post them.
Jacob882, I have almost the exact same set up on my '04. I grounded the lights on the bracket itself (my brackets are welded to hitch frame and ran a single wire along frame rails to driver's side front firewall. Drilled a hole (w/ rubber grommet) and dumped the line inside. My switch is also just to left of steeting wheel. Ran wires out same hole to relay and battery.
Couple of things: My brackets are "L" shaped also. Made out of pretty heavey stuff (1/4" steel) and extend about a 1/2 inch past lights on sides and about an inch past lense of light. This way I have some protection if I back into a packed snow bank.
I also installed a lighted switch (red) so I don't forget and drive down the road with 55 watt lights burning out my backside. Keep other drivers (especially the ones in little cars) happier.
I simply used an RV plug to wire in my reverse lights. They come on only in reverse. When I need lights for the trailer, I just put it in reverse with parking brake on. Works great, no wires to run. My trailer uses the 4 pin plug, so not an issue there.
I got mine from a tractor supply store. They have a very wide pattern and are 110w. They are a rubber housing so they don't break if something hits them. I also welded a bracket to the receiver hitch so it is very sturdy. There are pictures in my gallery.
Several of you have commented that you wired the connection off of the backup lights, or the trailer backup light feed. I'd like to do the same thing (on both the truck and the trailer) but I'm curious about the wattage that the stock backup light circuit can handle. Anybody know?
And, if the trailer backup light circuit is different than the truck, how much of a load can it handle?
My front driver & passenger door windows are tinted pretty dark (by the previous owner) and it makes using the side view mirrors difficult at night. A set of "backup floods" on the bumper and the TT would really make it nice for getting in and out of tight spots in the dark.
My 2 cents.... I don't recommend that you hook up to either. Amp. draw may be too much (especially if you go 100 watt) and you loose so much practical value. Wire them to a hard switch and you can use them to light up a work area, camp area, anything you might use the headlights for. The idea of placing the vehicle in reverse and setting the parking brake as posted earlier doesn't seem to me to be a good idea. I've never met a parking brake I trust that much.
The concept of adding floods to the trailer to aid in backing up is a good one. We've been using "trailer circuit" powered floods on horse trailers for years. Again though, use the 12-volt heavy circuit on a 7-pin connector as opposed to tapping into your backup or running lights.
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