HELP Ford on Road Dead
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Thanks to F350-6 for bringing this to everybody's attention!
Like many others here, I took a look at mine today and had some wear which required a judicious use of some of Scotch's best 33+.
In a few places, the insulation and dust had worn through the valve cover's paint, leaving it ripe for the inevitable short that was otherwise yet to come someday.
Good catch!
Pop
Like many others here, I took a look at mine today and had some wear which required a judicious use of some of Scotch's best 33+.
In a few places, the insulation and dust had worn through the valve cover's paint, leaving it ripe for the inevitable short that was otherwise yet to come someday.
Good catch!
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Aug 4, 2007 at 07:00 PM.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Well I feel better knowing that all of you can avoid the problems I had, not to mention the $275 the dealer charged, with a 50 cent roll of electrical tape. I do feel better now that I have confidence in my truck once again. It's too bad the dealers aren't more honest and just type up the invoice to say:
Electrical wire $0.50
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Electrical wire $0.50
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by F350-6
Electrical wire $0.50
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by F350-6
Well I feel better knowing that all of you can avoid the problems I had, not to mention the $275 the dealer charged, with a 50 cent roll of electrical tape. I do feel better now that I have confidence in my truck once again. It's too bad the dealers aren't more honest and just type up the invoice to say:
Electrical wire $0.50
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Electrical wire $0.50
Knowing which wires to tape $274.50.
I would have felt much better paying a bill like that.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Im glad I continued to read this thread until the solution was found.
If I were ever stranded on the side of the road with this problem I would pay $250 for a roll of electrical tape and knowing which wires to tape up.
If I were ever stranded on the side of the road with this problem I would pay $250 for a roll of electrical tape and knowing which wires to tape up.
Last edited by spunout; Aug 7, 2007 at 11:13 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Of course, our preventive maintenance mentality dictates you would tape it up now, with a $3.00 roll of tape, instead. Much cheaper that way. ;-)))
I also put a one-inch square piece of 3/8" silicone foam rubber padding between the wire bundle and the valve cover.
Anybody else want a couple of these pads, let me know. I gots bunches...
Pop
I also put a one-inch square piece of 3/8" silicone foam rubber padding between the wire bundle and the valve cover.
Anybody else want a couple of these pads, let me know. I gots bunches...
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Aug 7, 2007 at 12:21 PM.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
I also put a one-inch square piece of 3/8" silicone foam rubber padding between the wire bundle and the valve cover.
Pop
Pop
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
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From: Fulltime RVer
Note: It's not a good idea to put any pressure on that wire bundle and connector by inserting pads between the wires and the VC. The Ford tech who pointed out this problem area to me also showed the correct way to fix it. If you note the pic I posted in #143, you should carefully bend the metal CCV bracket the connector is attached to so that you've got the finger width clearance between the VC and the wire bundle.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by ernesteugene
Note: It's not a good idea to put any pressure on that wire bundle and connector by inserting pads between the wires and the VC. The Ford tech who pointed out this problem area to me also showed the correct way to fix it. If you note the pic I posted in #143, you should carefully bend the metal CCV bracket the connector is attached to so that you've got the finger width clearance between the VC and the wire bundle.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by F350-6
Good info, but what about some padding or rubber conduit where the wires go through the bracket where my short was? I travel a lot of bumpy roads so I either have to put something in there or plan on applying more tape every couple of months. The tape job I paid for doesn't look like a long term fix.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by F350-6
Right here.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I'll be looking there as well, thanks for posting those pictures.
Gene for something to get you started: if you stand on the bumper and look straight down at the bracket that holds that intermediate plastic piece for the air intake tube. The one that has the CCV passage in it and joins the two rubber boots together between the air filter housing and the turbo inlet.
Stand directly over that and sight down the two bolts like a rifle sight that hold the plastic fitting and you will see under the bracket the wiring harness as it passes under the steel piece.
His wiring harness was chafing at that point. It's at the back side of the 40+ pin connection that is the engine wiring harness.
Gene for something to get you started: if you stand on the bumper and look straight down at the bracket that holds that intermediate plastic piece for the air intake tube. The one that has the CCV passage in it and joins the two rubber boots together between the air filter housing and the turbo inlet.
Stand directly over that and sight down the two bolts like a rifle sight that hold the plastic fitting and you will see under the bracket the wiring harness as it passes under the steel piece.
His wiring harness was chafing at that point. It's at the back side of the 40+ pin connection that is the engine wiring harness.