I have to take the inlet side of the housing off as well as the ebpv to get to it right? Is there some kind of sealant where the inlet side comes off? What I thought was oil seepage around the seam seems to be rtv or something.

 

And how in the **** do you get that bottom bolt out?! I can't get a socket on it no matter what I do. I have a wobble extension and a universal. Not working.

 

10Bands I am about to do my turbo as well. I have been told by the local mechanics that the ONLY thing that will work is a 1/4 drive flex extension. THey are about 8.00 at Sears. You may break at least one in the process.

 

Well from CaseyDudem's experience you can't get to the bottom bolts. but try the flex drive. it will save you a ton of time if it works so you won't have to pull the turbo.

Also an o-ring is supposed to seal the compressor housing as far as I know.

 

Well can't get even a flex on that bottom bolt. Not enough room to get the length of the socket plus the end of the flex in there. It took me 20 minutes to get everything else off and I've spent 3 hours between trying to get that last one and running around for tools. I managed to get a wrench end on it and broke it loose but can't turn it far enough to get the wrench to reseat. Can't imagine how I'd get that bolt back in if I did get it out.

What else do I have to do to get the whole turbo off? 4 bolts in a square at the back close to the firewall (is that the up pipe?) and then the pedestal bolts? Am I going to need orings and gaskets or whatever if I do that?

 

10Bands, I owe you an apology. I thought you were taking off your entire turbo assembly from the pedestal up! In any case the flex may just come in handy as that is the tool you need to remove the drivers side pedestal bolt in the rear.

 

No worries. I was at the store buying the flex when you posted.

 

to get the turbo off yes the 4 bolts/nuts on the up-pipe collector and then 4 pedestal bolts. the pedestal bolts are 5/16 12 point and the 2 nuts on the collector are 15mm and the bolts are 13mm. you will need new o-rings to put it back together. they are a standard size so you should be able to bring them to a hardware store and match then up.

 

When I changed my wheel on my 94 I had to pull the turbo clear off. sucks huh!!!

 

Yeah, kinda. I gave up and put it all back together. On the bright side though, when I get back to it it'll only take half as long to do what I did today and now my Y-pipe and it's boots are all shiny and clean. But . . . my pretty new wheel is still in it's box.

 

Back to my first question. For those of you who have replaced the wheel, is there RTV sealing the compressor housing or an oring or what. I'm positive mine has RTV. The seam looks just like the edge around my rear diff cover where a little squeezed out when the bolts were tightened and it feels like cured RTV too. In all the reading I've done on this I've seen nothing about using anything to seal the halves back together. What's up?
Keep in mind I haven't been able to take it all the way apart yet.

 

t442 from ih
mine has it to from what i remember. i think ford sells this junk too just not sure what they call it. its rtv on a whole other level.

 

Thanks 1997F-350 I will go find some of that.

I want the O-rings before I take it off. I've found two part numbers one for turbo supply(F4TZ6N653A) and one for drain(F4TZ6N653B). The drain is supposed to be the larger of the two.
Does this sound right and do I need just one of each?

 

Check this guy out, this is who is going to do my turbo very soon. Hes a cool guy. I think the RTV is not the factory way. This guy has all the seals for your turbo, and I beleive that there is a large gasket that seals the two halfs.

http://stores.ebay.com/Rons-Turbo-Se...Q3amesstQQtZkm

BTW, his name is Ron and he will answer ALL of your questions if you give him a ring.

 

That's the guy I got my wheel from and I was just thinking I should pick his brain. I've thought about just sending him the whole thing. At 200k I'm sure it would hurt to rebuild it.