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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
Thanks for your input. Yes, I am still very confused and have even gone so far as to start considering trading up to an F350. I have gotten a lot of varying feedback with regards to the gearing change. My question is, in the end, is there a noticeable difference between the 3.73 you had and the 4.10 you have now?
4.10 divided by 3.73 is 1.10 rounded up. That's a 10% increase in torque to the ground, and a 10% increase in RPM at any given road speed.

Take any RPM and multiple by 1.1, the answer is what you'll be running at the same speed.

4.30 divided by 3.73 is 1.15, that's a 15% increase overall.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #122  
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Wow Art, I hadn't seen it explained like that before. I'll have to break out my calculator. Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 11:35 AM
  #123  
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There are actually two ways of figuring it out, I did it one way, Art did it the other...

There is a noticable difference as my truck more easily gets up, goes, and maintains speed better without much effort. The gears have done a great job of getting my truck and 35s moving down the road better.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 11:09 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
There are actually two ways of figuring it out, I did it one way, Art did it the other...

There is a noticable difference as my truck more easily gets up, goes, and maintains speed better without much effort. The gears have done a great job of getting my truck and 35s moving down the road better.


Bringing this one back....
Are you still happy with the 4.10's and do you tow much and if so what kind of weight?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 12:20 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by A Rodder
Bringing this one back....
Are you still happy with the 4.10's and do you tow much and if so what kind of weight?
Rudolph tows up to the factory 10K and doesn't break a sweat. It's as if I'm rocking the stock 265s. Acceleration and power are night and day better with the 4.10 and 35s almost like it was stock. People are still very shocked to see a vehicle it's size take off like it does.

On the highway he gets anywhere from 17-19 mpg and can tow like there's no tomorrow.

The transmission now has almost 300K on it and (knock on wood) not a single issue with it. All I've done is change the fluid.

The rear diff is still in good shape as well. Although I plan on putting in a Limited slip since Ford gave me an open diff on Rudolph...

My goal was to make Rudolph into a better Tow Monster than Ford originally designed him to be. Between the lift, gears, tires, and sway bars, I've accomplished that.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #126  
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Before I start another thread, I can't understand how the 4.30 didn't work, your tire size grew by over 15%, therefore the gear ratio going up 15% is almost dead on to 4.30's

I have an 05 6.0, 3.73's and went to 305 70 18 cooper tires, 35.08 spec height.

Absolutely murdered my mileage across all boards, city, highway, towing, empty etc, 3mpg lost, that is hand calculated.

What I don't understand is if these trucks w diesels came with 4.10 with stock 265's and they jumped to 35's theyd be wanting to gear lower as well. - puttint them to 4.30 or 4.56 at least.

Currently I am at 1600-1650 rmp in OD w locked TC at 70mph. stock tires had me dead nuts at 2000 rpm.

If I go to 4.15 that is 10% difference, that puts it at 1815 at 70.
If I go to 4.30 that is 15% difference, that would put it at 1900 rpm at 70, sounds perfect.

If I tow and keep it at 60 it would be around 1628 rpm, again 5th gear locked TC, sounds reasonable

Currently I am at 1460 rpm at 55 mph!


The math doesn't lie, how does this not work?

To say the least, yes, I am confused.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #127  
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As previously mentioned in the thread, 4.30 gears took the engine out of it's power band. I had great power around town, but on the freeway, I had little to no real passing power, even tuned.

I had the right answer the first time, but let everybody talk me out of it due to "rolling resistance" and other factors.

You can twist the math however, but is THE formula to use to calculate the correct gear ratio to the tire size:

New Tire Size/Old tire size x current gear ratio = Correct gear ratio to match current gear ratio with larger tires.

In the case of Rudolph:

34.6 / 31.6 x 3.73 = 4.08411392 or 4.10 gears

In your case:

35.08 / 33.2 x 3.73 = 3.94121686 or 3.92 gears

I geared my truck too numerically high and while it was probably better geared for constantly towing at 70 mph at 2200 rpms, it wasn't correctly geared for regular highway and city driving.

You also need to take into account that your speedo and odometer are now reading lower than what you're actually seeing. I'm sure that if you hook up your GPS, you'll notice that what your speedo and GPS say are two very different things. This is probably why it seems like you've lost mileage. Your PCM was configured for the 275/70/18 tires you more than likely had when your truck was stock. You PCM now needs to be configured for the larger tires you're running. Keep in mind the SCT only goes so far in configuring. You need an AE or IDS to do the rest. I recently went through this with The Monster and now have the speedo, odometer, and GPS agreeing on speed.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
As previously mentioned in the thread, 4.30 gears took the engine out of it's power band. I had great power around town, but on the freeway, I had little to no real passing power, even tuned.

I had the right answer the first time, but let everybody talk me out of it due to "rolling resistance" and other factors.

You can twist the math however, but is THE formula to use to calculate the correct gear ratio to the tire size:

New Tire Size/Old tire size x current gear ratio = Correct gear ratio to match current gear ratio with larger tires.

In the case of Rudolph:

34.6 / 31.6 x 3.73 = 4.08411392 or 4.10 gears

In your case:

35.08 / 33.2 x 3.73 = 3.94121686 or 3.92 gears

35.08 / 31.6 x 3.73 = 4.14 I guess I'd be about 1% higher geared than a stock EX with the 4.10's, probabaly splitting hairs taking the "Rolling Resistance" part out.



My stock tires were 265 75 16 when new so I am basing the percentiges of that

I geared my truck too numerically high and while it was probably better geared for constantly towing at 70 mph at 2200 rpms, it wasn't correctly geared for regular highway and city driving.

Can you give me the RPM you run currently at 70?

You also need to take into account that your speedo and odometer are now reading lower than what you're actually seeing. I'm sure that if you hook up your GPS, you'll notice that what your speedo and GPS say are two very different things.

My Edge internally tracks the correct drive miles after putting in the correct tire size, OEM odometer is innacurate at this point. My speeds / RPM are based on using a GPS on flat ground for half mile at a time to remove any variances, again TC locked in fifth.

This is probably why it seems like you've lost mileage. Your PCM was configured for the 275/70/18 tires you more than likely had when your truck was stock.

My PCM is set for the 265/75/16's

You PCM now needs to be configured for the larger tires you're running. Keep in mind the SCT only goes so far in configuring. You need an AE or IDS to do the rest. I recently went through this with The Monster and now have the speedo, odometer, and GPS agreeing on speed.


To be clear, I am not discounting anything you did or changed, clearly you have the first hand experience and that as why I am looking at your set up for answers, just trying to understand it better.

Joe
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 12:46 PM
  #129  
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On another note, using Coopers website my tires are 35.08, using online calculators, the 305/75r18 specs to 34.8....

Wonder which is more accurate?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:13 PM
  #130  
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Rodder, what tuner are you running on your 6.0
I run higher rpm' than that at 70.
Also, 70 on my speedometer is actually 75 mph with 35's
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:17 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Rodder, what tuner are you running on your 6.0
I run higher rpm' than that at 70.
Also, 70 on my speedometer is actually 75 mph with 35's
Michael, who tuned your truck?

If you have AE, you can adjust your speedo so it'll be accurate with the 35's.

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:19 PM
  #132  
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I have the hypertech... I can change up to 33.5 tires anything over that my truck won't start.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:36 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Rodder, what tuner are you running on your 6.0
I run higher rpm' than that at 70.
Also, 70 on my speedometer is actually 75 mph with 35's

Edge CTS, programmer is set for correct tire size, odometer is not.
My calcs and readings are based on using GPS and actual miles logged etc.

When you say you run higher RPM are you stock geared and are you running higher at true 70 MPH?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 02:13 PM
  #134  
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I'll double check next time I'm on the hwy. but I was thinking 1550 at 55.... Will check it out in next day or two....
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #135  
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35.08 / 31.6 x 3.73 = 4.14 I guess I'd be about 1% higher geared than a stock EX with the 4.10's, probably splitting hairs taking the "Rolling Resistance" part out.

Correct....

Can you give me the RPM you run currently at 70?

Approximately 2000 rpms

My Edge internally tracks the correct drive miles after putting in the correct tire size, OEM odometer is innacurate at this point. My speeds / RPM are based on using a GPS on flat ground for half mile at a time to remove any variances, again TC locked in fifth.


You need an AE or IDS to correct this. I've tested this on my truck and between setting my SCT for the proper revs per mile and telling the PCM I have 33 inch tires, my speedo and odometer are dead on.



Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Rodder, what tuner are you running on your 6.0
I run higher rpm' than that at 70.
Also, 70 on my speedometer is actually 75 mph with 35's
If I had to guess, the previous owner did you a solid and put in 4.30 gears instead of leaving them stock or putting in 4.10.
 
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