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thats cool. have u decided on what gear ratio u are going to get?
I think so, but I'll be doing more research just to make sure it's done right the first time.
Every shop I've talked to, swears up and down that 4.10s would be the best way to go for what I'm wanting. They all tell me that 4.56s and even 4.30s would be overkill and would get me alot of power, but not much on the mileage side.
I had my doubts so I did some reasearch online:
60% say 4.10s
30% say 4.30s
10% say 4.56s
I'll more than likely go with the 4.10s IF that will get me my highway mpg back or a hell of alot closer than I am now.
EDIT:
After looking at a gear calculatior and following a simple formula given by an off-road magazine, 4.10s seem to be the best option. Heres why:
New Tire Diameter/Old Tire Diameter X current gear ratio= New gear ratio
34.6/31.65 X 3.73= 4.07 or the closest ratio which happens to be 4.10
35s require either 4.10 on road and highway or 4.30s for the trail and city
37s would require 4.30s minimum
38s would require 4.56s
So it looks like I'll be going with 4.10s unless otherwise specified or advised.
Ratios? I have 3.73 and they are great for what I use X for. If you tow more than 5-6K pounds or like driving slower, then I would regear. I drive fast and this ratio works great over 70, not less than 65 as it will not hold OD long with slight inclines even unloaded. I only tow motorcycles and at 70-75 it is great and I get over 10 towing 3-4 bikes.
Ratios? I have 3.73 and they are great for what I use X for. If you tow more than 5-6K pounds or like driving slower, then I would regear. I drive fast and this ratio works great over 70, not less than 65 as it will not hold OD long with slight inclines even unloaded. I only tow motorcycles and at 70-75 it is great and I get over 10 towing 3-4 bikes.
I spend more time driving at about 65-70 on the freeway and the X 45-50 around town. Accelerating, it takes a whole lot more just to get it moving. Before, it wouldn't go much past 2100 on acceleration. So....
I will say that if you decide to regear, go with 4.30. 4.10 may put you to stock but with increaed rolling resistance you will still be behind stock. The difference between 3.73 and 4.10 is only around 160 RPMs and hardly noticeable, whereas 4.3 would be aout 290 rpms different. This is at 70mph for both. A few have done it but always wanted the 4.30. Plus if you ever decide on a more agressive tread or heavier tire, the 4.30 would be better. I just do not think it is worth the money for minimal change.
You can add propane cheaper and get more HP for your $...I'd rather spend money on power...10% is 10% whether it be in gears or HP. small shot of propane will increase your HP and MPG as it will give you better fuel burn using more of the available energy per gallon.
Last edited by igotoneforya; Jan 7, 2008 at 02:57 PM.
I will say that if you decide to regear, go with 4.30. 4.10 may put you to stock but with increaed rolling resistance you will still be behind stock. The difference between 3.73 and 4.10 is only around 160 RPMs and hardly noticeable, whereas 4.3 would be aout 290 rpms different. This is at 70mph for both. A few have done it but always wanted the 4.30. Plus if you ever decide on a more agressive tread or heavier tire, the 4.30 would be better. I just do not think it is worth the money for minimal change.
You can add propane cheaper and get more HP for your $...I'd rather spend money on power...10% is 10% whether it be in gears or HP. small shot of propane will increase your HP and MPG as it will give you better fuel burn using more of the available energy per gallon.
Well, since my last post with all the figures I came up with, I've been having some second thoughts. I'd rather slightly overshoot something than just do it about half-way, so per the advice of i eat hybrids and yourself; I'm gonna call my shop and see if I can get my order changed to 4.30s. You two haven't lead me wrong yet, so why the hell not?
Before I do this, explain your whole "rolling resistance" theory....you too i eat hybrids.
Thats the way to go toredor. Ur better off doing it right now then swapping them out later and paying more (incase u get bigger tires). What igotoneforya means is that the more aggressive tread that u get for example a/t vs m/t, the rolling resistence will be more. Or basically more friction. For example, go ride a bike with pure street tires, then after u ride it, switch the tires out to mud tires and then ride it. Then tell me how much harder it is to pedal. Igotoneforya is trying to say get a lower gear ration to conteract this
Well, my truck will always have 35 inch BFG all-terrains until they or someone else comes out with something better. I also don't plan on going any bigger than the 35s either, so no worries there. So with the 4.30s, my truck won't have to work as hard to get moving or maintain speed. If anything, (based on what you and ivegotoneforya have said) I should end up better than stock. (correct me if i'm wrong)
With the 4.30s, what would my rpm be at about 65 and 70? (since you guys both managed to figure out everything else) Stock at 65 mph I'm at 1900rpm at 70 mph I'm just at 2000rpm. I'm asking because I've used a couple gear calculators and they're way off, even stock. So....
4.30's will put u a little bit under stock. Remeber 4.30's with 315s will be at 3.61's. I highly doubt that ull feel the diff between 3.61 and 3.73's. If u want to be better then stock ull need 4.56's
I found that 4.30s were indeed the right gears to with the whole time it's just a matter of figuring it all mathematically and confirming a couple things I already knew to be true. For example: I know that stock my truck at 65 mph is at 1900 rpm. Every other gear calculator was off and couldn't even come close to where I was with the stock tires, much less with the 35s and 3.73 rear. This calculator comfirmed what I knew and proved more accurate than anything else. I got off the phone with my shop not 30 minutes ago and once Randy's Ring and Pinion opens, I'll have some 4.30 gears on the way. Don't get me wrong, I didn't doubt you, igotoneforya, or anybody else, I just needed to see how it all came together for myself.
only lessons you figure out for yourself are TRUELY lessons learned. We can teach you but cannot make you learn...much like the horse and water
In addition to what Hybrid said, increased rolling resistance also comes from the width and weight of the tires. You are adding 2 inches in width as well as some weight. The calculators cannot take that into equation. What that means is if the math says 265/75/16 and 3.73 is the same as 315/75/16 and 4.30 EXACTLY, rolling resistance will still counteract and make it slower or work harder which is why we normally round up to fix that error.
OD in the slushbox with torque converter is what has the RPM calculators all jacked up. I would say your new RPMs will be slightly higher than they were, maybe 100 RPMs at 65
Good Luck