Stealth Reverse Lights Mounted with pics
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 219
Likes: 2
From: Houston, TX
I saw them at Advanced Auto Parts a couple months ago. But they were in a completely different box. I am not even sure they where called the same thing, but they were the exact same lights. I have these mounted so I know what they look like, and these others where them, but just in a different box. I believe the box was like yellow or orange. If you looked at the manufacturer on the box it was the same company. Don't know if that helps or not, but you may be better off going into the store and looking. I don't remember seeing those lights on the net when I went to get mine.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,859
Likes: 55
From: Middleville, MI
Originally Posted by F250_
No... The UltraWhites have an acrylic rod that is mounted vertically which scatters the light in a wide angle fog light pattern.
Last edited by bbender85; Feb 15, 2008 at 10:22 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Those do look a lot like the UltraWhites, for sure. Perhaps it would help if they were angled farther out away from the truck's centerline. It looks like you've already got some degree of angle on their orientation, but maybe more would be better.
Only reason I say that is because if you look at the original poster's positioning, his are at the outside ends of his hitch mounting bar, which places the lights about 3-4 feet apart from each other. I can only suspect that this helps his situation. When you look at the light pattern in his picture, you can see a focused area of light for each one, for sure, but they are evidently wide enough apart such that he get's adequate wide angle effect for them to work well as backup lights.
EDIT: I just looked at his pics again, and his lihts are not only much farther apart than yours, bbender, they also appear to be angled outward as well due to the curvature of his rear cross mounting bar.
Only reason I say that is because if you look at the original poster's positioning, his are at the outside ends of his hitch mounting bar, which places the lights about 3-4 feet apart from each other. I can only suspect that this helps his situation. When you look at the light pattern in his picture, you can see a focused area of light for each one, for sure, but they are evidently wide enough apart such that he get's adequate wide angle effect for them to work well as backup lights.
EDIT: I just looked at his pics again, and his lihts are not only much farther apart than yours, bbender, they also appear to be angled outward as well due to the curvature of his rear cross mounting bar.
Last edited by F250_; Feb 15, 2008 at 11:40 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
MCHEVY
I attempted to hook up the lights as you did yours, however, I still cannot get them to come on. I've checked all grounds and they are good. All connections to the relay are good. I tapped into the black wire w/pink tracer behind the fuse box and used the diode. The only thing I did different was use the blue pass through wire from the reverse switch. I noticed you used the red wire. Is there a difference (other than color)? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I attempted to hook up the lights as you did yours, however, I still cannot get them to come on. I've checked all grounds and they are good. All connections to the relay are good. I tapped into the black wire w/pink tracer behind the fuse box and used the diode. The only thing I did different was use the blue pass through wire from the reverse switch. I noticed you used the red wire. Is there a difference (other than color)? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Great lookin truck and set-up!
Here's my regular old reverse light set-up (not the greatest of pics).
It's not as covert, but it works great.
Plus, I ran the lights to a toggle vise wiring into the reverse lights.
Here's my regular old reverse light set-up (not the greatest of pics).
It's not as covert, but it works great.
Plus, I ran the lights to a toggle vise wiring into the reverse lights.
Last edited by Cecil_Stringer; Feb 17, 2008 at 02:35 PM. Reason: added pics
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Sometimes the relay doesn't work. I moved the ground wire away from the terminal, to make a sparking sound, and now it works flawlessly. I believe the internal switch gets stuck, this is the second relay this has happened, and needed to be 'unstuck.' Of course, the switch had to be on to trigger the current. The first one was on a different vehicle, on a different application. I've had my set-up installed for nearly a year now, shortly after bearhunter started this thread.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
I just picked up some Pilot Navigator NV-509W Driving Lights and plan to hook them direct to an upfitter only. So my Q is
Both lights have a gound that will hit the frame, then run one hot to the other lights, connect together and then run that to the upfitter? Should do it right?
Both lights have a gound that will hit the frame, then run one hot to the other lights, connect together and then run that to the upfitter? Should do it right?
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
Hey guys, I just found the thread and started reading and got to the third page and was tired of reading already!!!..I am going out to buy these lights tomorrow night..pay day!!!! they were 36$ each or for one? why can't I just wire them into the stock reverse light wires...one light per side...as for I am not an electrician and can't follow that damn diagram...I know im not the brightest crayon in the box!..thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
Mr Grieves,
Yup, that should do it. Just don't tie into the reverse lamps for current only signal voltage.
It sounds like you want them independent.
------------------------
Strokin,
you need more current than the OEM reverse lighting circuts will give you. it's best to pull voltage from a heavier source that that circut. You might look into the charging ciruct for the trailer or better yet, run a line from up front.
Soon, (for your viewing pleasure)
I plan on building a "gallery" of mods that I did to my particular installation. I hope to create interest in the method chosen and that others out there will benefit from my efforts.
Reason being is this installation includes a 4 square box that houses relays.
All wiring down frame rail in wireloom
6 circuts total.
two #10 (30A.)
four #16 (to controll relays and misc.)
this is besides other mods done. Just need to find the time.
Yup, that should do it. Just don't tie into the reverse lamps for current only signal voltage.
It sounds like you want them independent.
------------------------
Strokin,
you need more current than the OEM reverse lighting circuts will give you. it's best to pull voltage from a heavier source that that circut. You might look into the charging ciruct for the trailer or better yet, run a line from up front.
Soon, (for your viewing pleasure)
I plan on building a "gallery" of mods that I did to my particular installation. I hope to create interest in the method chosen and that others out there will benefit from my efforts.
Reason being is this installation includes a 4 square box that houses relays.
All wiring down frame rail in wireloom
6 circuts total.
two #10 (30A.)
four #16 (to controll relays and misc.)
this is besides other mods done. Just need to find the time.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
From: All Over
Thanks for all the comments guys
Benchwrench,
are you talking about something like this?
Truckblog - How-To Install A Painless Weather-Proof CirKit Boss
Benchwrench,
are you talking about something like this?
Truckblog - How-To Install A Painless Weather-Proof CirKit Boss
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,708
Likes: 7
From: Circle City
That's a nice and sanitary kit.
Never knew about it. I would recommend that kit to anyone with the desire to add Radios, lights, and misc. electrical items.
What I did was to add a 6x6 Weather proof box housing relays above the spare tire. The install entailed dropping the tank (an ideal time to modify the inside of the tank). The two multibreakers, a 20A. and 30A. are near the drivers battery where they belong. I might even buy that kit you mentioned, I can use something like that. Personally, I like building my own since I can controll the gauge selection. I prefer fine thread #12 and #10 over the usual #14 for the pigtails on the Fuse block. Reason being is I have a couple VHF/UHF amps that demand 30 amps as well as the Radio pushing them. I find the Fuse blocks from mobile sound systems to work well enough for the main Block. Then a smaller Fuse block like the one you just shared for smaller aplications would be ideal.
As soon as I find the time, I will add this (among other) nifty ideas in my gallery, right now we have company staying with us for a few.
Thanks for the link, great share item!
Never knew about it. I would recommend that kit to anyone with the desire to add Radios, lights, and misc. electrical items.
What I did was to add a 6x6 Weather proof box housing relays above the spare tire. The install entailed dropping the tank (an ideal time to modify the inside of the tank). The two multibreakers, a 20A. and 30A. are near the drivers battery where they belong. I might even buy that kit you mentioned, I can use something like that. Personally, I like building my own since I can controll the gauge selection. I prefer fine thread #12 and #10 over the usual #14 for the pigtails on the Fuse block. Reason being is I have a couple VHF/UHF amps that demand 30 amps as well as the Radio pushing them. I find the Fuse blocks from mobile sound systems to work well enough for the main Block. Then a smaller Fuse block like the one you just shared for smaller aplications would be ideal.
As soon as I find the time, I will add this (among other) nifty ideas in my gallery, right now we have company staying with us for a few.
Thanks for the link, great share item!