OK, of all the stuff I've taken off my '55, this is the most challenging. I bought a steering wheel puller and I can't get that stubborn old steering wheel to move an inch. Do I need to get a cutting wheel out and begin slicing away at it? There's go to be a trick to it. And yes, I removed the main nut (just in case you thought I was having another senior moment!).

Ray

 

Put a drop of oil between the shaft and the wheel and let it sit. Leave the nut on so the theards are covered, otherwise when using the puller you will "egg" out the hole where the horn wire goes and have a heck of a time getting the nut back on. Bolt the wheel puller on and tighten the center bolt to snug. While keeping pressure on the center bolt with a wrench, whack it (the center bolt of the wheel puller) with a hammer. This should break it free. Make sure you don't mess up the steering shaft or the threads on it. I know this from experience, BTW. I have a heck of a time trying to find a die to redress the threads on the steering shaft. I think I finally found a set at Pep Boys or Autozone, But I had to buy the set. Sometimes with the pressure and a whack, they pop right off. Sometimes! Trying to crank it off just using the center bolt on the wheel puller will work you to death and still not get the wheel off.

 

I've always had good luck putting my knees behind the outside rim of the wheel and bracing my feet so I could put a good amount of pressure behind it while giving the puller a solid smack with the hammer. Are you using the type puller that has bolts that thread into the holes in the wheel hub? Did ther truck sit with the column exposed to the weather for a length of time? If so I'd soak the interface with liquid wrench or another good penetrating oil (NOT WD40!) and let it sit for a day or two before attempting again.

 

I had to use a BFH and pound the crap out of mine since there were no holes for a puller. It came off...but in pieces.

I hope you have better luck.

 

Just remember when you're hammering on the steering column that there are bearings and worm/sector gears that are being smashed together down below.............

 

As far as the '48-52 truck steering wheels, I have seen some without holes for a wheel puller, most had them. The ones that don't have holes I just drill and tape two holes, 5/16 thread.

 

I found that out when I went to pull a steering wheel on one of the parts cabs. Found no holes for the puller. Couldn't figure out how to pull it out, so I gave up. The steering wheel is not worth the trouble of days work drilling and tapping holes.

I also tried pulling another wheel that was left out in the open by using the two holes for the puller. I didn't think about lubricating it first. Ended up stripping the holes. Gave up on that project too.

I have enough steering wheels laying around.

Ilya

 

My uncle, an old salt in the resurrection of old iron, showed me a great trick when we pulled the wheel on my '53. No puller. Agree with the penetrating oil/WD-40, of course, but didn't even need it. I'll do my best to describe this maneuver, but it's really simple when you see it. You get up there and grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 position and start pulling on one side and pushing on the other. Do it in a circular motion, sort of 'walking' it off. Came off slicker than crap.

 

When removing the steering wheel without a puller (by using your knees, ect) be careful not to hit your head with the wheel as you are bent over trying to get it off....
Be sure to leave the nut on by 5-6 turns to prevent this from happening.

 

I learned the hard way this is a good way to loosen up a front tooth, when I pulled on the wheel it smacked me in the mouth. Luckly, it just loosened my tooth and it tightened up.

Also, when using a puller I do as Fomoko1 says and insert a large bolt into the center of the steering shaft to leverage the drive bolt of the puller. This will save the threads on the shaft.

 

My 49 didn't have the holes for the puller either. I tried the "push/pull" method, the apply pressure to the back side and smack the shaft method (started to damage the shaft and threads), I even cobbled up a puller that would go around the back of the wheel (and since I was suffering from rectal/cranial inversion and the thought of drilling and tapping holes for my puller never crossed my mind) I ended up taking my trusty sawzall to the wheel to get it off in pieces.

........Sometimes its not easy being me........

Bobby

 

Here's one thought that will probably work if you're to the point of destroying the wheel. Just heat the shaft up with a torch until it's red hot, then let it cool down. Works great with bolts. The expansion breaks things up, when it cools down it makes it come off easy. Don't know if that might damage the temper of the shaft, perhaps others have thoughts about it. I know it's likely to start "baking the bakelite", but again, you obviously are to the point of destroying the wheel to get it off.

 

So am I the only one that has had to do this? Take a piece of metal 3/16" thick or so drill two holes in it the same distance from each other as the 5/16 holes in the steering wheel (on each side of the center shaft nut). Keep in mind I think I remember them being 5/16 FINE thread on my '55 I had to clean 50 yrs of crap out of my holes with a tap. and thread a nut on each bolt to the head then slide each bolt through the metal plate and screw in the bolts to the steering wheel ( make sure the they go in a little ways BC you dontn't want to strip them out) then altenately tighten each nut a turn or so at a time until the steering wheel come off. And like others said WD-40 is no good at penetrating I am a fan of Marvel Mystery oil. let that soak in for a day or two and it should pull off easier.

 

It worked!!!! I soaked it in Liquid Wrench for about a day and a half. Then I tightened the puller bolts until they were hard to turn. Then I smacked the puller a few times. I'd wait a couple hours and repeat the process. Took about three attempts and BANG, she popped off. Once again you all save my butt. Thank you