When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Some of the trucks seemed not to come with tapped holes. If yours don't have the fine thread 5/16" hole you'll have to tap them. It's not hard. Also, insert a bolt into the column shaft to use the push the puller threaded rod off of. If you don't you run the chance of mushrooming he steering shaft and make it extremely hard to thread the nut back on.
Loosen the nut to the top of the shaft, place your knees behind the wheel pushing it up the shaft, strike the shaft with a brass drift while holding up pressure and the wheel will pop up to the nut.
Loosen the nut to the top of the shaft, place your knees behind the wheel pushing it up the shaft, strike the shaft with a brass drift while holding up pressure and the wheel will pop up to the nut.
Loosen the nut to the top of the shaft, place your knees behind the wheel pushing it up the shaft, strike the shaft with a brass drift while holding up pressure and the wheel will pop up to the nut.
I removed the wheel on y 54 without a puller. I wiggled and pulled on the wheel and pulled with my ha D's as I had my feet up against the floor board to help pull. After a while it came off. This was the first to e I had it off since I owned it in 1977 and probably the only time it was off in 55 years. But make sure to leave the nut on a few turns or you will get the steering wheel in your face...
when i did my fairlane i used a puller and it would not come off. i was bending the 5/16's bolts. i used PB blaster, hammers and torches, etc.. so it figures when i pulled the steering wheel of my rusty/rotted customline parts car that it popped off as soon as i started tightening the puller..some are easy, some are stubbon. i'll be pulling my wheel off my 51 f1 so hopefully i'll have no problems.. glad to see you got yours off!