squeaking from front steering knuckle area
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squeaking from front steering knuckle area
i have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 and recently after going thru a mud hole filled with water i started to get a very loud sqeak from the passanger side wheel area. it squeaks when i turn in either direction or when the suspension is traveling. i can rock the truck and it will squeak and and can push down on the front bumper up and down and it will sqeak. i got underneath and all the ball joints are tight. but the sound seems to be coming from the lower ball joint area or from behind the rotor, cant exactly tell. the squeak is almost like a thin metal on metal sound. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Lexington Mo
Squeak
I'm a mechanic for a passenger car, through heavy equiptment tire distributer, and a die hard Ford truck owner.
But the ball joints that Ford put in the late 97' and up F 150, more so the 4x4 are worthless. I've changed more of these than any other light duty truck around. That is most likely you're noise.
You can try undoing the outter tie rod end, then see if you can make the truck squeak by bouncing. If the noise is gone, then maybe it's a tie rod. Most likely it's ball joint time.
Bob
But the ball joints that Ford put in the late 97' and up F 150, more so the 4x4 are worthless. I've changed more of these than any other light duty truck around. That is most likely you're noise.
You can try undoing the outter tie rod end, then see if you can make the truck squeak by bouncing. If the noise is gone, then maybe it's a tie rod. Most likely it's ball joint time.
Bob
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I Have A 2000 Ford And Am Having The Same Problem. I Tryed To Lube The Front End( Found Only Two Grease Fittings). I Wasnt Sure What The Problem Was So I Took It To The Dealer---big Mistake But Found Out What Was Wrong-it Was The Lower Ball Joint And The Tie Rod Ends Need Replacing. After They Told Me It Would Cost 837.59 To Fix One Ball Joint And The Tie Rod Ends I Think I Am Going To Do It My Self!!!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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lowre ball joints at Auto Zone are about $25 each. upper ball joint is part of the A-frame arm and is abou t$75 per side. Upper takes 30 minutes each side, lower is a real challenge if your not an experienced mechanic. Couple hours per side will do lowers.
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I 've Looked At My Aftermarket Manual And It Seems To Be Pretty Simple---drop The The Skid Plate---put Pressure On The Torsion Bar Adjustment Key And Back Out The Adjustment Screw--push Forward Enough To Get The Torsion Bar Out(making Sure You Mark The Torsion Bar(and Count Threads).ty Up The Upper Control Arm/half Axle. Then Drop Shock And Sway Bar. Undo Lower Controll Arm And Off To Local Shop With Coffee And Donuts(am) Or Beer (pm) To Have New Joint Pressed In! This Is My Impression And Understanding Of The Process. I'm Sure It's Not This Easy But Sounds Good To Me!
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I did my own lower and upper joints/arms. I left the torsion bar as it was. I kept the front of the truck on jack stands and used my floor jack under the lower arm to raise it back into place.
VERY important !!! DO NOT tighten the upper arm to frame mounts until the wheel is back on the hub and some of the weight of the truck is on the suspension. This will "center" the bushing while it's relaxed and not being twisted too far from being tightened in a position when there was no weight on the suspension. The rubber will rip away from it's metal sleeve in a few ahort miles if tightened at the incorrect time.
PS: Add the adjustable upper control arm bolt kits while you are in there. The alignment guy will be able to do a more accurate job.
VERY important !!! DO NOT tighten the upper arm to frame mounts until the wheel is back on the hub and some of the weight of the truck is on the suspension. This will "center" the bushing while it's relaxed and not being twisted too far from being tightened in a position when there was no weight on the suspension. The rubber will rip away from it's metal sleeve in a few ahort miles if tightened at the incorrect time.
PS: Add the adjustable upper control arm bolt kits while you are in there. The alignment guy will be able to do a more accurate job.
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Hotshot
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From: BC, Canada
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
If non greasable is all ya can get than I will drill and tap the joints and put in inverted nipples. Don't know if this will work on yours. but worth thinking about when ya buy the parts. Stealer's and local shops will install the non greasable ones to get you back in a few thousand miles. Even if the greasable ones are available.
Mooge
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: BC, Canada
Remember that greaseable parts are only good if you grease them regularly, and most people don't.
Sealed parts keep water and junk out better and will last longer than un-greased greaseable parts.
Sealed parts keep water and junk out better and will last longer than un-greased greaseable parts.
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