belt sqeaking
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
belt sqeaking
I replaced the belt on the 1988 Ford F150 when I replaced the water pump.
it has a auto tensioner.
when driving down the road, after a while the squeak goes away.
when you first start it up and the clutch fan turns on the squeak cannot be heard.
but when the fan kicks off it squeaks until driven for a while.
what else could it be?
I think it may be the auto belt tensioner.
I put my ear next to the belt tensioner (and it seems like that's where the sound is coming from)
is the top of the tensioner suppose to move at all?
the pulley the tensioner is connected to moves, would just replacing the pulley that's connected to the belt tensioner stop the squeak?
what do ya'll think?
it has a auto tensioner.
when driving down the road, after a while the squeak goes away.
when you first start it up and the clutch fan turns on the squeak cannot be heard.
but when the fan kicks off it squeaks until driven for a while.
what else could it be?
I think it may be the auto belt tensioner.
I put my ear next to the belt tensioner (and it seems like that's where the sound is coming from)
is the top of the tensioner suppose to move at all?
the pulley the tensioner is connected to moves, would just replacing the pulley that's connected to the belt tensioner stop the squeak?
what do ya'll think?
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Id go with the tensioner. My 94 4.9L would squeak 2 months after replacing belt. Finally broke down and bought a high quality one and it's been squeak free ever since.
Not sure what you mean by top of tensioner moving.
Not sure what you mean by top of tensioner moving.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
belt tensioner
where did you get your tensioner from? how much did you pay?
AutoZone (has one for $54 and a mail in rebate) in stock. with a one year warranty.
I'll post a short video of the tensioner moving. by the looks of it the top part of the tensioner assembly moves slightly.
I saw a video of one of youtube completely worn out on a Chevy motor and the whole tensioner assembly was moving and clicking.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
worn out tensioner video
A buddy of mine was saying just the idler pulley could be replaced. the pulley itself is only $15. and has a bearing inside.
but the tensioner part has a spring and bearing inside. and comes with the pulley.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
I've never replaced my tensioner, I was talking about the belt. Sorry should have clarified. For whatever reason my truck would eat up the cheap duralast belts. Finally got the most expensive one they had. Ran about $36 I believe. But no squeaks yet.
I'm assuming you mean where the tensioner mounts to the block? If so that should not move at all. Get one with a lifetime warranty, better safe than sorry and you get what you pay for.
I'm assuming you mean where the tensioner mounts to the block? If so that should not move at all. Get one with a lifetime warranty, better safe than sorry and you get what you pay for.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Just watched the vids. The second one is exactly how mine would sound when I started it up cold. It would go away after awhile when it warmed up. An easy test to see if it's the belt or a bearing is have the engine running and pour a small amount of water on to the belt. If sqeaking stops it's the belt, if not then likely a bearing some other place. I would just get a high quality belt. Maybe it got some antifreeze/oil on it when you replaced the water pump causing it not to grab correctly?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
engine detailing
Just watched the vids. The second one is exactly how mine would sound when I started it up cold. It would go away after awhile when it warmed up. An easy test to see if it's the belt or a bearing is have the engine running and pour a small amount of water on to the belt. If sqeaking stops it's the belt, if not then likely a bearing some other place. I would just get a high quality belt. Maybe it got some antifreeze/oil on it when you replaced the water pump causing it not to grab correctly?
I had replaced my water pump and put in a new belt and fan clutch.
Then sometime later I detailed the engine, covered up the battery alternator and distributor with plastic bags.
Wish I would have taken the belt off, because I got the engine detailing gel on the belt.
it squeaked really bad.
So I got a new belt (cleaned the other one off with brake cleaner and saved in just in case I need it one day, put in in the door panel).
And then I cleaned all the pulleys off with brake cleaner and a brush (carb cleaner works too).
The only squeak now, I think is the tensioner.
It seems like I just take the belt off the tensioner without removing the whole belt. and take one bolt out of the auto tensioner. and it looks like that's all there is to it.
because the new belt tensioner comes with the pulley already installed.
if I ever use any spray can detailing gel I'm gonna have to remove the belt and cover the pulleys somehow.
I don't think I will do that again though, it looks nice, but not worth the headache.
Trending Topics
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
replaced belt tensioner today
It was easy. Only took about a hour. that's after I read the instructions and found some instant Krazy! Glue.
The old tensioner has one locator pin. the new one comes with a bushing and a allen head screw your suppose to JB weld, metal cement, or bond (the bushing over the allen head screw).
tools used : 5/8 wrench 3/4 wrench and a 15mm Wrench (the new adjuster pulley on the auto-tensioner is a 15mm wrench (aftermarket I guessed why)
I didn't notice it until I bought the new one but there is a plastic bushing that runs around the autotensioner and it was obvious by comparing the old one to the new one that, the bushing had worn out.
I cant post photos or I would.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
squeak free!
$67 dollars later, yep. I went with the expensive tensioner like you suggested. belt tensioner made by dayco made in the usa. matched with a dayco belt.
other videos online looked complicated on changing this part, really simple, one bolt, and one pin to line up. easy install.
thanks dude.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Cool, no problem bro that's what we are here for. I'm jealous of that clean engine you got there lol. Gonna have to scrub mine down. Living in the desert if any kind of oil leaks anywhere the dirt sticks to it like a magnet. Makes everything look gross.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
powerstroker100
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
15
Jul 10, 2015 02:46 PM
DGM
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
May 17, 2012 07:36 PM