Manual Transmission Installation (Your Tips)

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Old 12-02-2006, 08:28 AM
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Red face Manual Transmission Installation (Your Tips)

I'd like to hear any tips anyone has to assure a good clutch change and transmission installation in an 86 F250 460 T-19 4-speed.

I have managed to mess one installation up and I'm not sure why.

I'd particularly like to hear about aligning the trans to the bell housing and sliding the input shaft into the clutch with ease.

Yes, I used a clutch alighnment tool that came with the clutch kit.

Thanks
 
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Old 12-02-2006, 01:34 PM
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My experience is limited to 3/4 speeds into a '65 Mustang. I couldn't keep the throwout bearing on the fork. I used an old input shaft to align the clutch, and later one of those nearly worthless wood jobs, but that was never an issue.

I resorted to installing the trans on the bell first. That way I could make sure the TO bearing was on the fork properly. Then I used a floor jack to lift the assembly into place, and then roll it forward to mate with the engine. I left the trans to bell bolts a little loose to accomodate the slight misalignment inherent to this operation.

I would suggest a trans adaptor or some kind of cradle for the jack to reduce the drop on your hand/foot/face possiblities...

This is really not the greatest set up, but if you must work on the ground I think it beats trying to bench press the trans while aiming for a dark hole....

Another suggestion I heard from a mechanic at work is to use a long fan belt from overhead (through the shifter hole or other access) to support and lift the trans part of the way.
 
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Old 12-02-2006, 01:48 PM
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Use the clutch alignment tool to line the clutch plate up before bolting the pressure plate on, if you didn't do that already. After I bolt the pressure plate on I eyeball the alignment to make sure the crank bearing and spline holes line up.

The easiest way I've ever found to install transmissions was by making two alignment dowels. I used two bolts about 6" long, with threads that match the trans bolts. (7/16" coarse I think)
Cut the heads off of these bolts, and thread them into the engine where the transmission bolts go. When you jack the trans up, you can pivot it up and down a little to catch the trans mounting holes on the dowels. Once the trans is "hung" on the alignment dowels, you can make fine up/down alignments with the jack, and you are assured that it will slide into place without hanging on the input shaft. You will still need to get the splines lined up, but if you leave it in neutral it will usually move on it's own. Alternately, leave the trans in high gear and use a bare yoke on the output to rotate the input shaft slightly as you push it home. This method minimizes the possibility that you will misalign the trans as it goes in.
 
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:00 PM
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Like Cheggie said, "alignment dowels" is what I use too. As for the actual bolting of the tranny to bellhousing, a universal joint on a short socket, with several extensions makes it less a hassle to get it bolted in. Atleast it allows you to lie flat on your back without neck straining, and out of the way of the jack. A block of wood holding the engine still will also minimize the unwanted movement when wiggling the tranny.



Another suggestion I heard from a mechanic at work is to use a long fan belt from overhead (through the shifter hole or other access) to support and lift the trans part of the way.
I like that idea.
 
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:37 AM
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Red face Read Your Suggestions - Thanks

I read all the above comments.

I can vouch for using the crane for lifting. Balancing the tranny on a floor jack is too dicie for me as I already have found out.

I like the idea of the two dowel bolts and also leaving the bolts loose to allow for some movement as she slides home.

I somehow got the idea (I think from work I did a year ago - library database content) that a T-19 should be in reverse when the stick is removed. Is this true?

I did so and was installing the tranny without the stick reinserted and still in reverse. I had a hard time getting the input shaft to slide home and maybe this is why I have issues (Vibrations while in gear - felt in the shifter and audible to the ear. May have bent the input or buggered the pilot bearing or ??

I will see what is damaged when I find time to pull it again....dang I hate redos!

Thanks,

Tom
 
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:06 AM
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I have a tip - Makeshift Jacking Rig

One thing I forgot to mention. I made a platform narrow platform (wood) to go under the tranny so I could use 2 small floor jacks on tha aft end and my 3 ton floor jack forward. This allowed me to cange the pitch of the tranny to align with the engine. This was after my first attempt resulted in spilling the tranny off a single 3 ton floor jack. There-in lies the most likely cause, if the input is bent.

Originally Posted by E30tdf
I read all the above comments.

I can vouch for using the crane for lifting. Balancing the tranny on a floor jack is too dicie for me as I already have found out.

I like the idea of the two dowel bolts and also leaving the bolts loose to allow for some movement as she slides home.

I somehow got the idea (I think from work I did a year ago - library database content) that a T-19 should be in reverse when the stick is removed. Is this true?

I did so and was installing the tranny without the stick reinserted and still in reverse. I had a hard time getting the input shaft to slide home and maybe this is why I have issues (Vibrations while in gear - felt in the shifter and audible to the ear. May have bent the input or buggered the pilot bearing or ??

I will see what is damaged when I find time to pull it again....dang I hate redos!

Thanks,

Tom
 
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Old 12-30-2006, 02:20 AM
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Found the Problem and Fixed It!

After I installed the T19, I was having some tattle of the shift lever on decelleration in all gears and some odd noises when I had it in neutral idling.

Found and fixed the problem.

When I pulled the top off to inspect, I wasn't watching to see that the forks both went into their respective rings in the gear sets. Reassembled and everything is back to normal now.

Another lesson learned the hard way! No harm though that I could see.

Tom
 

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Old 12-30-2006, 02:57 AM
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It's a good idea to put the disk on the input shaft to check smooth spline movement plus disk wobble which later bite you in the butt with a dragging clutch.
The days of lifting those heavy boxes are over for me, why risk damage to tranny, disk or yourself, get a real tranny jack not those jack bolt on adapters.
They are a accident waiting to happen besides falling over and bending a disk.
Who ever said place in reverse, they are nuts, use high gear.
Lube the spline and new pilot bushing. Flywheel surface in good shape and glaze broken or resurfaced?
Pressure plates are crap at best these days specially long arm, diaphragm seem more foregiving. The metal gauge thickness of the baskets are thin vs years ago and they will crack if your agressive with a strong motor.
After your assembled have someone hold the pedal down or better a 2x4 to hold it down then check the clearance between the pressure plate and flywheel all around after rotating the motor by hand. Should be the same
if you got lucky for a clean release.
 

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; 12-30-2006 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:04 AM
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Unhappy Trans Jack Adapter for Floor Jack

When I spilled the tranny I was using a floor jack adapter. What a POS those are!! PLenty stout but the design sucks with regard to attaching to the floor jack. They also take up to much verticle height before you even start to lift.

Don't buy or use one!!!! Very dangerous!!!! I was lucky I didn't get a 145# tranny on my head.
 
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