The Zoodad only works on the F-series, the van air intake is totally different.

I think someone here did a cold air setup with a dryer hose for his E-series

 

What did the plugs look like for those of you who have changed them. What differences between the gap and other conditions of the plugs compared to new ones?
I Have a 99 V-10 that had a Ford recommendation of changing plugs at 60,000 under extreme conditions such as towing etc and 100,000 under normal conditions. I spoke with the service department at my local dealer and they were not aware of a difference in change intervals. I asked my highly trusted and respected mechanic and he could not think of a reason why you should need to change more often under severe service than normal unless your engine often ran up the running temperature.
As a precaution, I had him look at two plugs at 70,000 and he said they looked fine. I now have 90,000 on the truck and am pulling a 35' 5th wheel with 4 slides that with the truck and us in it fully loaded weighs in on the CAT Scales at 21,500 and puts me over my GCVWR by 1,500 lbs. Prior to this rig I pulled a different trailer the first 75,000 miles with a GCVW of 17,000 lb. The ratio of towing to solo driving was about 60/40. The truck performs very well towing, runs smooth and gets better mpg than I would expect it to at between 8-9.5 mpg, depending on wind conditions and speeds between 60 and 70.
I've decided I will get the plugs changed, but would like to know what the plugs have looked like for those of you that have already changed them out. Did they actually look bad and in need of replacement? Did you also replace the O2 sensors?
I have been running Amsoil in the trans, rear and engine. I also have a bypass oil filter system and do oil analysis on tranny fluid and engine oil. I have never had an oil analysis that recommended changing the oil in any of the componets, but did the tranny anyway at 60,000 and change the engine oil at around 20,000.

Thanks,
LIKENIT

 

I changed mine around the 21K mark, and if you look at a brand-new plug, the center electrode has a little "tit" (tip) on the point.

That tit was gone. So the gap had widened quite a bit.

Now, at 21K, I had at least 80K miles worth of air and fuel through the thing. So by what amounts to 60K for a normal person, they should have been changed

 

Thank's again, guess I'll have to do some searching for it.

If you're 99 V-10 is a motorhome, as soon as you put it in gear to move, it is to be considered under full load (which it most likely is or close to it) also to be considered extreem condition.
Recommended to me by a reputable Ford shop (Fast Lane) plugs on the motor home to be changed at 60,000 mi or 100,000 Km.

Cheers Willis

 

Krewat or anyone -
Can someone explain what's up with CAI and water ingestion I've seen mentioned. My RV has a 99 V10 F53 Chassis.
Is this something important that I should be looking into modifying, or is it just a "tweak" type mod. ??
Thanks!

 

There was a TSB/Recall for the F53 motorhomes, where driving in the rain, it could suck water up into the motor (not a good thing). Is that what you're talking about?

If you're talking about the idea that a cold-air kit will increase your chances of ingesting water, well, depends on the setup.

 

I think that's it?
I had thought the CAI mods were a soulotion for this?

 

I guess they could be thought of that way...

As for the TSB, Ford had a revised snorkel, or something, for it. It was just a shield to keep water from blowing straight into the intake, if I remember correctly (and I don't always).

Here's the TSB:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...p?tsb=04-24-22

 

Bascially, when driving in heavy rain, water floods up underneath the hood area and into the air flow/air filter areas, causing some bad juju. Here is an info page on the FTE site that explains the recall: FTE Here

Here's a GREAT series of pictures that shows the recall parts and how they are installed: Part Pictures Here

These pictures are from a complete thread on the subject here: Thread

Mark S
Colorado

 

I notice a lot being mentioned regarding the 4r100 being just OK from the factory. Just curious what I might expect from mine in an 03 7,000 lb E350 V10. Don't beat it, no towing, and obviously about 1/3 to 1/2 the weight of a motorhome. I have 30K and plan on a transmission service this week. I thought this was a HD tranny especially since they used it with the diesel as well.

 

There were issues with the 4R100 - they were cured over the years, by '03 they were pretty much ironed out (just in time for the TorqueShift )

The 4R100's enemy is HEAT - get a real tranny temp gauge and watch the temp. If it gets too high (200 or more?) pull over and let it cool off for a while (let the engine idle).

 

This thread has been so incredibly helpful. Thank you to all who posted their information, advice and pictures.

I (still) have a 99/00 Winnebago Class C (Minnie Winnie)/ E-450 with a Triton V-10, and (still) under 25k miles on it. I have not yet had spark plug blow out or any of the other "Horror Stories" happen to it. I am preparing to take preventative action, and thank you all so much for your advice. I had no idea these things could go wrong.

I am guessing it probably has the 4R100 tranny. I was thrilled to find out that Brians Truck Shop is still there! I hope to be in that area in a couple of months and will pay them a visit.

It has a weak spring in the back end. (Not related to the engine, I know) but I was told today that Ford discontinued the springs and it could not be replaced. Does anybody know if these springs are suitable replacements? Or how would I find out? 43-1339HD

I have had a really hard time finding out information on this vehicle, and even though it came with a suitcase full of manuals, I am finding they are mostly regarding the Winnebago coach components and not very much at all about the Ford engine and chassis parts. It's pretty frustrating.

Air bags on the rear suspension were also recommended, so I will be looking in to that.

When I go to replace the spark plugs, I am also going to have to charge the a/c, and I guess I am also looking at either a fan relay switch or fan motor. That should be fun. It's all wedged into the back left corner of the front entrance to the engine. (Any tips, tricks or insight would be appreciated. I have replaced a lot of blower motors on my cars in my day, but this one looks like a real personal challenge.)

I had the recall part disconnected when it was recalled, but keep forgetting to go back and get it repaired. Ford is going to love me lol.

Thanks again for this old thread. It was a real eye opener and a true godsend.

 

Hi All,

Interesting thread and a great site. I have been following this site since I bought my vehicle last August and thought I would finally join.

I have a 1997 Ford (Tioga) 29' class C motorhome which I purchased in California and imported to Canada.
It has around 70,000 miles on it and runs perfect. I have been very concerned about the sparkplug blowout problem since I learned about it on this forum. Been worrying about getting them done all winter.

Well I did them using the helpful information provided by so many on this site. Not near as hard as I expected. Plugs were in very good condition, boots were like new, and very little dirt in the recesses. I guess it helps that it is a motothome with mostly highway miles. Plugs were all tight except for 3 which were a little more than finger tight.

So for even those with the van type body, don't worry about doing the change, it's not that bad. I just removed the bolts holding down the wiring harnesses above the cops, disconnected the connectors from the cops and fuel injectors, and pushed the wiring out of the way slightly. Thought about removing the seats but didn't really need to. Plenty of room for the torgue wrench as well. Accessed the drivers side plugs straight on, but needed a universal on the passenger side. Did not have any issues with the fuel injector rail being in the way; just was careful. Nice to have piece of mind with the plugs changed.

Although this is the first generation V10, I find it has plenty of power. I'm getting around 11 mpg although that is for an imperial gallon and would be less for a US gal.
I usually set the cruise around 60 mph and find through the mountains on 2 lane highways I have at times had someone with a big truck pulling a large boat or trailer behind me trying to pass, but when we start uphill and there is a passing lane, my V10 will hold its speed and the truck won't be able to get the speed to pass.

Just thought I would throw my 2bits in. Thanks to all on this site for the great information.

 

EXPYBOAT01,
Man, talk about highjacking a thread, I plum lost count how many it is.

Anyways, I guess I may as well jump in to sence aint nobody else been fussed at.
It is all good though, everybody else asking about the same questions or got some answers to solve stuff.

We've had a 99 Holiday Rambler Vacationer on F53 V10 chassis, for about a month & a half now & more I read more I learn.

Read on RV.net about those plugs blowing out & kinda got me thinking some, she sure is running good right now, but its only got 28000 on it.

All the replys everybody added in will sure help dealing with all the replacements & knowing what to expect out of this thing.
When we went to check it out, everything checked out ok so then when we picked it up about 3 weeks later, got it home the blower motor wouldnt work in the dash so no a/c. Then ready for our first trip, the dang fridge wouldnt cool & had to end up replace the cooling coil. Set us back $500.00 right to start with & I did the work myself. Come to find out Norcold has a recall on their fridge units & been a bunch of RVs burned up cause that cooling coil leaked & caught fire.
Guess I done blew that now replacing the coil.

Everything all of you stated that needs be done I'll take heed & do it as I can. That trans is first on the list with a fluid & filter change & extra cooler coil.
Got a question on the V10, when we got it home, next day I was checking things over some, just looking at stuff & when I checked the engine oil level that rascal was down little over 2 quarts so went to town & got some Motorcraft 5X30 simi syn & filled it back up. Well we put over 2000 miles on it since & the level on the stick aint moved a bit, still on the full mark.
Where did that oil go you wonder.
Now the air filter it was nasty & looked like it might have been the one came in it & I replaced it same day I put the oil in. You think the air filter was so stopped up it caused the engine to suck up that oil cause it aint used a drap since.
Oh, ya'll gona have to tell me what all the letter things are ya'll typing in, like COP's, you mean cap's the plug caps.
Thanks all & thanks EXPYBOAT01 for starting this thread.
Neil

 

COP -- Coil on plug -- The older engines had a central coil feeding power to each plug through a distributor, spark plug wires, etc.
Newer engines have a small coil mounted directly on each plug.