Yes, welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts. The best place on the web for information sharing about our vehicles.

 

Big welcome to FTE!

 

Thank you - and for the meaning of the acrynim. I should have been able to guess that. Right now I wish I could guess what kind of manifold studs were used on my "bus", I'm beginning to wonder of there isn't a significant proportion of lead!!

 

I would like to get some information on centering a steering wheel.I looked over this site ,but can not find where to start a new thread.Don't want to be accussed of hijacking.I have a 99 Winnebago with the F 53 chassis.I would like to center the steering wheel.When I removed the center with the horn,I noticed there are no threads for a wheel puller.So I purchased a 3 inch gear puller and put an adapter on the post to protect the threads.I started to turn the center screw and it got really tough to turn,so I backed off.I just don't want to break the steering wheel.I am just wondering if I am doing this right.Is there a clip or something that has to be removed first.I do have the bolt removed that holds the steering wheel to the shaft.I have removed steering wheels before with the bolted pullers with no problems.Its just that this is a newer one and it seems to be taking a lot more effort to remove it.So if someone could help me out with this question,I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Usually, to center the steering wheel, you adjust the drag link between the steering box, and the front end, which in your case, would be a series of tie-rods. Whatever rod is coming off the pitman arm of the steering box, that should have an adjustment in it.

I guess it's possible to only have two adjustable tie-rod ends, in which case, you turn one a certain number of turns one way, and the other one the same way, and the steering wheel moves.

See, the steering box should be centered when the wheel is centered. In a best-case scenario, anyway I'm assuming nothing else was taken apart between the wheel and the box, so it's best to leave that alone.

Without moving the relation between the steering wheel and the steering box, you should be able to adjust something "down the line" to compensate.

 

I just bought this motorhome three months ago.When I asked why the steering wheel was off center,the dealer said that all the steering wheels are off center in the Ford chassis that year.I just took his word for that.It is just annoying that it is off center,if you know what I mean.I don't think there is anything wrong with the steering,it tracks well down the road,does'nt pull to one side and the tires don't show any sign of being out of line.The unit has only 32,000 miles on it.I just thought if I could just center the wheel that it would be the easiest way to do it.It's only off about 1/8 off center.Its just annoying like I said.Thanks for your reply.I may have to go to a shop to get it done that way.

 

Duplicate post.

 

I just checked my 2001 service manual and the F53 drag link is not adjustable.

You might be better off just taking off the steering wheel like you had planned on doing.

And, maybe the reason it's off is the chassis comes from the factory with the wheel centered. But adding the motorhome body pushes the front end down from the weight and the drag-link angle changes. Which would change "center" for the steering wheel.

Here's the procedure for removing the steering wheel, nothing special except the two-jaw puller.


Removal

1. Make sure the wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

2. Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».

µ 3. Unsnap the steering wheel horn pad from the steering wheel. Disconnect the horn/speed control wire harness connector and remove the steering wheel horn pad.

µ 4. Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt.

l Discard the bolt.

µ 5. Make a reference mark on the steering wheel and the steering column shaft for alignment during reassembly.

µ 6. Using the 2-Jaw Puller, remove the steering wheel.

7. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

Thanks for the information krewat.I will try again tomorrow.When I was trying to remove the steering wheel the other day,it seemed like it was taking a lot of force to pop it,so I backed off. I did'nt want to break the base of the wheel with too much pressure.It felt like it did'nt want to give.Thats why I had to ask if there was a clip or other fastener that had to be removed first. Thanks again

 

Art ,
My son works on f53 motorhome chassis and said this owner needs to chk the rod from the steering box going back to the pitman pivot that the 2 tierods attach to .
That rod has a threaded end on it that will center the steering wheel .
He does alignments on them .

Hope this helps.I will see if he can get me a picture of the rod for this guy.
Rich

 

RICH! Thanks!


Stay tuned...

 

I finally got the steering wheel centered.I was able to remove the wheel with a two jawed puller.I did what krewat said to do.In fact I had to do it twice.The first time I did it and went for a road test,it was opposite to my original problem,I thought the wheels were straight.NOT.When I came back into driveway ,I made sure they were straight,pulled wheel again and went for test run and sucess.Man when that wheel pops,it pops.Put some removable lock tight on bolt.It feels good to go down the road and the wheel is centered.Thanks again.

 

Just bought a 05 coachman mirada with 7000 miles on it are they still having the plug problems with the 05s and i know the ford pickups with the v10 in them are having spark plug problems and trans. problems i am sure the rv must have a heavier transmission in than a pick up but i am not sure and is it true there runnin 0w 20 wt. oil in the motor just seems awful thin my rv didnt come with any motor or trans. service book i am hoping they made some changes in the 05 motors and trans. but i did buy a 4year bumper to bumper warranty i like to do all my own service work but i dont even know how much oil it holds in the pan any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Wow, what a great thread. I have a 97 Fleetwood, 20' Class C with a V-10. I bought it used with 90,000 miles and it now has 107,000.

Since I've owned it I've done regular oil changes and did the trans service not long after I bought it, and I did a radiator drain and fill and flushed the brake lines (if you haven't done this, I recommend it, the fluid that came out was nasty). I haven't done the plugs, hoses or belts yet. After reading this, I think I need to get on those before the next trip.

My Class C is built on an E-series chassis, which means you don't get any real engine access from the hood, and about as much access from the engine cover below the dash. Is there any tips to getting to the plugs on this engine?

From looking at the engine from the front, it appears like there is only one accessory belt. Is that correct?

Somebody mentioned getting the a/c serviced, is that something that needs to be done if it is still blowing cold?

This is a dumb question, but does this engine have a timing belt or chain? If it is a belt, what is the recommended change interval?

What exactly does a transmission flush and fill do for you over a drain and fill? My intention with this transmission is to do a drain and fill about every 20,000 miles, or sooner if the fluid doesn't appear clean and pink. At 107,000 miles, do I really need a transmission rebuild already?

What is "plug blow out?"

 

One thing to add. Police cars with the 4.6L have the same problem. The solution is to NOT use antiseize. Only a drop of oil to help obtain a good torque reading. I use the autolite "double platinum" version instead of spending the extra cost the dealer marks up. A motorcraft plug is an autolite plug with the motorcraft brand name and part number.

Autolite's numbering system goes like this:
A764 = Copper Core plug
AP764 = Single platinum core electrode
APP764 = Both platinum core electrode and ground electrodes. Also has nickle coated body. My opinion, the best plug to use.

The best preventitve is to check the torque every 10-15k.