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V10 Motorhome ?'s

 
  #106  
Old 05-14-2010, 08:52 AM
C-Leigh Racing
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Oh, ok.
I guess in time I probably would have figured it out, might would been a bunch of time though.
Thanks, Neil
 
  #107  
Old 07-15-2010, 09:12 PM
rcamsler
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2001 F-53 will idle only

Please re-direct to another area of the forum if necessary...

I have a 2001 F-53 chassis, 6.8L with 20K miles. Stored heated indoors and last run about three months ago. Went to start it and will only idle, albeit somewhat roughly - when throttle is depressed it stalls out.

Not sure where to start... fuel filter, IAC, PVC... so little miles I suspect it is a fuel issue and related to being stored with full fuel? I think I used Stabil when last filled...

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob
 
  #108  
Old 07-16-2010, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rcamsler View Post
Please re-direct to another area of the forum if necessary...

I have a 2001 F-53 chassis, 6.8L with 20K miles. Stored heated indoors and last run about three months ago. Went to start it and will only idle, albeit somewhat roughly - when throttle is depressed it stalls out.

Not sure where to start... fuel filter, IAC, PVC... so little miles I suspect it is a fuel issue and related to being stored with full fuel? I think I used Stabil when last filled...

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rob
Rob, start a new "topic" in the V10 forum. In the meantime, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and report that in your new thread.

thanks!
 
  #109  
Old 08-27-2010, 08:41 AM
beached350
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informative thread!

Mine: 2000 e450 coachmen santara v10 4.56 rear!
 
  #110  
Old 09-10-2010, 06:53 PM
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Hope my V10 isnt part of this batch

I have a V10 T in my 2001 Rexhal class A. How can I learn if my engine/ trans have Pbs or preculiar maintenance issues?
--------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by Fredvon4 View Post
Your 2000 Model Year 2v V10 is really from 1999 due to the way Ford produced the F53 chassis and delivers to the body builder...the Body builder is the one who puts on the year of manufacture.

What that means is you have the lower power version of the 2v V10. And I am sorry but no, there is no real good way to up grade it to the 3v V10 and the cost to get it fully 2001 or later is just too high for to small amount of HP you would gain.

The full Gale Banks kits work real good for that application. If you intend to spend a LOT of time on the road, especially in Tall Mountains...it is worth considering.

Horror story number ONE: plug blow out...it is a real phenomena and you are probably OK with 16,000~17,000 on the motor and no blow out yet... I would either do it my self or get a very trusted professional mechanic to remove the factory plugs and replace with the new nickle plated ones using the correct procedure, blow out each plug recess with compressed air, a little anti seize, and torqued to the correct spec of 160 to 168 inch pounds.

Horror story number TWO: poor idle or won't stay running... Idle Air Control (IAC) valves get gummed up and stick. Buy one and learn how to find it on the motor and get all the tools you will need to replace it out on the road. You do not need it right now but you will and Murphy says it will be at the top of a remote mountain pass when it decides to crap out. Also get a couple of the rubber "elbows" for the top of the motor vacuum lines into you "emergency kit"

Horror Story number Three: speedometer failure or ABS light blinking. Typically the speed sensor craps out, usually on the rear differential but some are on back of transmission. Inexpensive...get the part into your "kit"

Horror story number Four: Transmission problems... most likely you have the very early version of the 4R100 transmission. A damned good tranie but has problems. Rebuilt units these days do away with all the weak link internal crap parts. If you intend a LOT of time on the road like more then 10,000 miles per year seriously consider a rebuild as a preventative measure before an expensive tow and trip interruption of a week is needed. Install a real trans temp gage and watch it like a hawk when parking and backing the rig. Any temp heading above 210 F is bad and 220F or higher requires immediate replacement of all the fluid. Add in another auxiliary transmission oil cooler to the two the factory already has. Get one with a fan included.

Final Horror story: Pinion shaft seal.... on these rigs caused but sitting for extended periods. Drive the rig at least once a month up to full operating temp religiously and she will last decades... let her sit for 90 days or more and she will punish you according to the rules of Murphy.

Tip of the day.... travel with the Grey and black water holding tanks empty and only about 5 gallons in the fresh water tank.... load light.... weight is your enemy! Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon so 40 gallon tank holds 320 pounds of fuel robbing weight
 
  #111  
Old 09-10-2010, 06:56 PM
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Oil filter on v10T

I cant seem to find online what # oilfilter I need for Motocraft,Wix (car Quest built for wix) for V10 T 2001 Class A Rexhal
Can anyone tell me?
That even knowing it has a quaker cs2 on it
 
  #112  
Old 09-10-2010, 08:05 PM
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My 1999 V10 uses a Motorcraft FL-820S.
The 820 is just a bit smaller than the FL-1A regular Ford filter & just a tad shorter.

Just another tip, something you need to check.
The engine air filter, it is out front behind the grill mounted beside the radiator & where it is located it can suck up water in a rain storm.
Check to see if there is a long tube mounted to the bottom of the filter box & the tube curves up & goes up to the top where water not suppose to get to it.
Normaly there just a short 5" tube mounted to the bottom of the air filter box that points straight down with a round like metal shield in front of it & nothing to keep rain water from being sucked up & soaking the air filter element.

I read about that problem & was thinking,,, naw,, mine cant be like that & sure enough it was & I ended up sucking up rain water.
It dont have to be a real hard rain either, water spray off a car or truck thats passing you & it can happen.
Neil
 
  #113  
Old 05-04-2016, 05:48 PM
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Your 2000 motorhome has OBD I !!
10,000GVW FORDS ONLY REQUIRED OBD I, IT READS THE FIRST O2 sensor only. OBD 2 diagnostic readers will work if they read OBD I TOO!!!
I still need a manual for my V-10 2 valve engine 1999 ITASCA Sundowner (1998 F53 stripped chassis) as someone without a screwdriver license worked on it!
 
  #114  
Old 05-04-2016, 08:23 PM
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Holy old thread, Batman.

Actually, OBD-II is a term used to describe (incorrectly) both the communications protocol, AND the emissions certification/conformance.

In this case, the interface is "OBD-II" (but not really) so an OBD-II reader will work, but it complies to only OBD-I as an emissions standard.
 
  #115  
Old 05-09-2016, 04:33 PM
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Old Thread yes, but lots of great information for us with the F53 motor Home V-10, I have it booked marked and reread as needed when something goes wrong with her.
 
  #116  
Old 07-24-2016, 03:42 AM
LoopyAg02
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2015 Winnebago Brave

So I have a 2014 F-53 (V-10 6.8L) chassis 16,000lb. I'm not sure of which tranny I have yet. Plan on towing my '73 Baja Bug. Live in Nebraska.

Have any of the horror stories been improved since 2001? My manual suggests oil/filter every 7,500 mi. Seems a bit long, I plan going every 5,000mi, thoughts?

Thankfully I can park it at the house, so we can drive it once a month at a minimum. We keep it plugged into power and run the A/C at 80 (thoughts)?

Thank you in advance...
 
  #117  
Old 07-24-2016, 10:40 AM
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With that much sitting, I wouldn't worry about mileage on the oil change, I'd worry about length of time. Acids and other crud build up in the oil. If you go for a trip, when you get back, change it, and then let it sit.

Otherwise, I think you have it under control

No "horror stories" about the V10 lately, except the valve train damage for the 2013 run where it seemed a chain tensioner wasn't sealed to the block correctly so it leaks, reducing the amount of oil getting to the cam and associated valve train. But that was only for VERY long idle intervals. Otherwise, no one noticed.

Good luck with that motorhome, I'm jealous
 
  #118  
Old 03-25-2019, 02:37 PM
Big George 6
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need help, was told that our Georgetown needs a new engine triton V10 Model F53 engine 2009 we purchased in 2011 only has 16,500 miles on it, any suggestions?
Georgetown is a 2019 the engine is 2009 with 16.500 miles on it, was told by a Ford dealership that it need a camshaft on drivers side cam followers tappets and valve cover gasket, but they suggested a new engine, problem was loss of power
 

Last edited by Big George 6; 03-25-2019 at 03:47 PM. Reason: add more information
  #119  
Old 03-25-2019, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Big George 6 View Post
need help, was told that our Georgetown needs a new engine triton V10 Model F53 engine 2009 we purchased in 2011 only has 16,500 miles on it, any suggestions?
I suggest that you provide more details about why it allegedly needs an engine.
 
  #120  
Old 03-25-2019, 03:37 PM
Big George 6
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We have a GeorgeTown motorhome Triton V/10 Chassis model F53 We experienced loss of power and were able to get to the ford repair in North Carolina, they told us that the engine needed a drivers side camshaft, cam followers, 3 tappets and valve gasket, they did suggest that the other side was ok for now but they suggested that we replace the engine
 

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