I see all you guys servicing your motor homes and I don't see many of you changing out the spark plugs. I'm looking at a 2000 class C with a V10 with 63000 miles and what is making me hesitate is the spark plug problems some have had. What are some more opinions?

 

Hi all, my motorhome is built on a year 2000, E350 Super Duty cut away, Triton V10 powered with duals on the rear. I guess my question is which torque setting would I use for my plugs. We purchased this unit used. There's little doubt in my mind that the E350 is a USA model as the speedometer is in MPH and there's other requirements for Canadian vehicles that it doesn't conform to like the headlights.
Thanks for any help.

Cheers Willis

 

WilleB

I would use the 160 inch pound setting unless you can tell for certain your heads have the modification Ford did with the higher thread count and better aligning lead in machining... very hard to visually determine in the truck and harder to do unless you had visually seen both methods... the change is real subtle and the ability to count the threads is difficult even on the forward most holes.

But the truth is 160 inch pounds works well for either head design, and is only 8 inch pounds short of max torque or about half pound difference... the only thing the slightly lower torque does is prevent a stress crack in a thread or two for all the folks out there that can't or won't pay for a serious calibrated torque wrench... all the el-cheapo ones I ever put on a torque tester were slightly high... in other words they put 5~10% more torque to the tester before they "clicked"... theoretically a 10% eror at 168 is an additional 16.8 inch pounds (184.8 total) and that is way too much if there are only 4 ~8 threads

I never recommend the real inexpensive bar and swinging needle type because the proper training to use it is a pain and this device does not readily create "repeatable torques" down in this low a torque setting range... they are OK or so-so in my opinion for 75 to 125 foot pound usage where a 10% error either way does not cause serious problems

 

Hi Fredvon4, Thank's for the reply. It makes sense so I'll stick with the 160 inch Lb. for my rig. Although it's new, I do believe I'll take my torque wrench over to the comunity college for verification of it's reading in that range, I don't want to risk the chance of a 10% error.
Other than changing oil at 3000 mi or 3 months I haven't looked at the engine. According to the maint. schedule the plugs are due to be changed in another 4000 mi. and transmission fluid change in 24K. I find it strange that it's hard to find a manual on the E450 chassis, ehen there are lots of manuals available for the F chassis.
Thanks again for the info, I'd be in a bad way if I made a mess of that engine.

Cheers Willis

 

Hmm! can't find an edit button.
Oh Oh! E450 should read E350, but then again I suspect they would be in the same book

Willis

 

WilleyB and all the lurkers here too!

The best resource out there and relatively inexpensive is on the MotorCraft web site

Top menu go to "Technical Resources"

Side menu go to "Subscription Products"

Down to "Service Publications"

In window there are three links:

Ford Motor Company Car and Truck Workshop Manuals: Provides complete up-to-date information for servicing Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles, including comprehensive service instructions and procedures, approved specifications and detailed illustrations.


Ford Motor Company Powertrain Control and Emission Diagnosis Manuals: Provides accurate engine diagnostic procedures for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. They should be used in conjunction with the workshop manuals and wiring diagrams.

Ford Motor Company Car and Truck Wiring Diagrams: Provides complete up-to-date electrical wiring diagrams for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles, including component location illustrations, circuit descriptions and troubleshooting hints


In the next window select year and model

Select:

Short term (72 hours) for $9.95
Monthly for $16.95
Year long for $99.95
and pay with a credit card

This is "on line" access to the same publication sets you can buy from Helms for around $1200-$1500 dollars

Yes Virginia a complete set of up to date pubs can get damned expensive!

www.motorcraft.com

 

Ah Fred ! ,I paid $250 for a complete set from helms for my truck 06 f250
Rich

 

40Fords

That is a great bit of info, thanks...

Dang me.... last I shopped on the Helms site was mid 2001 for my F250 Platinum books... the total for each of the series was about $1100 (IIRC)

I assumed with time, the costs would be even higher... that is what I get for assuming

Thanks for the correction

 

Fred ,me thinks you updated the wrong post maybe .
Rich

 

You are right Rich and I can't do much about it but ask Art to do his snip and paste thing

Hey Art,

My fault....got caught by one of the many FTE database hanging problems...

Worked up the post above, edited, previewed it, copyed to clipbaord, hit the send button and got the dreaded page can not be displayed window, got the "back key" ....yada, yada

 

GOT IT!

Split the post off to it's own thread, then merged it back into the Recall? thread.

I hope I got it in the right thread

 

I have a Rexhall RV powered with a Triton V10. I bought it new in 1999. At 32.5K kms (19.5K miles) five manifold studs on the curb side of the motor sheared. This was repaired by Ford under the warrenty. At 50K kms (30K miles) the same thing happened on the road side (driver side). This was repaired by a Ford dealer - at huge expense. At 56K kms (33.6K miles) one stud on the curb side has sheared - again.

Has anyone with a V10 in their RV or in a pickup that they use to tow big heavy fifth wheels experienced this problem of studs shearing and if so, do they have a remedy? At this rate I will spend more on this engine than I did on the RV!!

 

First, WELCOME to FTE!

The exhaust studs are a common problem.

Ford came out with a stainless stud kit.

It's been reported here on FTE that people go to Ford for the updated kit, and still get the regular steel kit unless they have the correct part #.

I wouldn't put it past a Ford tech to use the regular-old-steel stud kit without even thinking about it.

 

Thank you krewat - and thanks for the welcome; I am still trying to find my way around in this site - the amount of information out there is overwelming.

According to the Ford dealer Service Dept. they installed the "stainless steel" studs. However, when I asked what the tensile strength, shear value and thermal rating of these studs are (see www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp) I hit a wall of shoulder shrugging. I even went into another dealer and bought a set of studs with the part number on the bill but they sure don't look like they are stainless steel.

Can you suggest were I can find the part number for the stainless steel stud?

 

Krewat, I just figured out how to do a quick reply. I assume my previous reply has arrived in the right place. What does FTE stand for?