Fredvon4 and anyone else of course.
I have 2003 250 v10 with 40 k. It's been GREAT !!
Should a 2003 have some of the trans or plug issues?
I'm thinking of 4.56 gears with 35 inch tires. I use o/d some now and would use it a lot more with the gear change.
My overload leaf would come into play when towing our 33ft trailer (15 to 16K combined) and kick us in the back. I took that leaf out and added it to the front pack as it was too soft and low. I put 350 blocks in the back, it gave me about a 2 inch lift for about $100 including u-bolts for the front. Birdice56 KC8HMJ

 

Birdice56

Your 03 will have all the reliability and grief of the 2001 through 2004 trucks

Basically IAC, Plugs, rubber vacuum elbows, 4R100 cooling

Each of these areas gets special attention to prevent or rapidly correct faults

Example...we all think the 100,000 mile service as first time to check or change of the plugs is insane-------- 50~60K or every three years is what we say

The IAC will crap out...get a spare

The rubber elbow in the PVC line will crap out...get a spare

The 4R100 is not bullet proof from the factory so it should not be aggressively abused

If your are going to tow very heavy for very long I recommend an additional oil cooler and fan for that trans

4.56:1 and 35s are OK if that is you thing...if it is a SRW axle in the back and you are serious about 33ft heavy trailer than you really need to shop hard for tires and pay close attention to weight ratings...

Do not be fooled into believing all "D" or "E" rated tires can carry max loads "D" and "E" are very WIDE ranges and it makes a BIG difference on a SRW what your tire can carry at what psi....If you have a DRW your options are a bit better except now you have to worry about taller tires being too wide to be fitted as Duals

 

Well I finished the DREADED V10 plug change this weekend.
There are some good threads over on FTE about this, but thought it would be helpful here to.
I thought that this would be fairly simple in the MH, since you're basically working on top of the engine:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...g?t=1175534701
Took me just about 4 hours to do the whole thing.
Basically went like this:
* Removed 7mm nut holding COP in place
* Got fingers down in there & pop'd COP/Plug Boot out of spark plug hole
* Pull Boot. Twist Spring out.
* Blew out spark plug hole. Here's a pic of my air hose extender:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...g?t=1175534829
* Used a good 5/8" spark plug socket w/ rubber insert.
* Needed plenty of socket extensions!
* Loosend plug about a turn.
* Blew out again! (I repeated this a few times as I worked it out.) Pic of Plug:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...g?t=1175534995
* Gapped to .054 and painted threads w/ Anti-Seize grease.
* Used socket plug & extension to gently get plug back in & started.
* Used more extensions & torque wrench. Torque to 120 in/lbs. first.
* Did (5) plugs on one side & then went back & torqued to 160 in/lbs.
* Installed spring into Cop.
* Applied Dialectic grease on each end of Plug Boot. Slid over spring.
* Slid COP/Boot down into hole over plug and reinstalled 7mm nut.
* Repeated (5) times - Had a beer - Repeated (5) more times!
Pic of parts/tools used:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...g?t=1175535121
Pic of all old plugs:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...g?t=1175535171

Bottom line for me was, by doing it myself, I knew I've the Anti-Seize on the threads and haven't over-torqued the plugs (stripping threads), so for piece of mind it was worth it.

 

Good job

 

Sorry about removing the images, I changed them to links because it was just too freakin' huge

We do have some dialup (and low-speed DSL) users here...

But great pics! And a great job!

 

Hi EXPYBOAT01
excellent! thanks for posting about your experience. Mileage wise, mine will be due again for a change next year. Your experience helps me build some courage to tackle the job. I haven't opened the dog house yet, but from your first photo I guess I'm not going to see much more than I can see from under the hood anyway.

Willis

 

Thanks Krewat,
I'm still trying to figure out the picture posting thing!
(Some sites seem to resize as you post them. But I guess that doesn't happen here)
Thanks!

 

wow, awesome thread here ! i am an owner of an f53 chassis MH its a 2000 gulfstream palm breeze 32.5' , 67000 on the v10 and it is still performing beautifully ! this is really an excellent choice in a gas MH engine. my only question is, is there anyway to tune the shift points to higher rpms. this engine makes more of its power up high and i find it really struggling down low before it will downshift sometimes, unless i just plant my foot into the firewall... is there a chip or programming option available ?

 

If it is a 4R100 4 speed auto then I recommend NOT going with the chips...they all raise the line pressures to make the shifts firmer and some will reprogram the shift points slightly

The 4R100 while a good trans has some inherent flaws unless it has been to a re-builder

ALL re-builders now will only put in quality replacement parts and make it a MUCH stronger transmission. Solid companies like Brian's truck Shop (BTS) takes the time to also adjust the holes and mechanicals in the shift body to slightly up the liner pressure and shift points....

I highly recommend these guys special touch of bullet proofing, especially for 4R100s in the heavy class motor coaches

Brian is NOT the only shop doing this, the recipe is well known to most trany shops that cater to Ford Diesel PSD trucks with this trans

I think Brian's web site still may have good side by side photos of the internal parts they now use compared to the original factory inferior wear parts and assemblies

www.brianstruckshop.com/index.html

Years ago with my PSD on steroids I was tearing up my trans and forked over the higher cash for a Brian's rebuilt unit... over 700 HP and nearly a 1000 ft pound through a low rear geared dually set up could not break the trans

Well worth every dime I paid

I have it on good authority that many local custom trans re-builders do similar work on the 4R100

Any how what I am saying is if you have a 2000 F53 it is highly likely the chassis is really a 1999 version and the 4R100 will be all old skool inside.

Adding a chip or any of the sonex valves and other mods to up the line pressures and shift point changes may just have you at the re-builder any way with a broken slush box...and certainly that is not what you want on top of Ratone pass New Mexico, in an hail storm! (about a 100 miles from no where near a dealer or any trany service)

 

Today I ordered the boots so decided to have a look into the future.
I opened the dog house today, my new found courage is diminishing quickly, and I'm wondering what demented lunitic designed this
Click-->
Has anyone here had the experience of changing plugs on a V10 in an E350? You can't even see a COP assy from under the hood, although I can see 4 COP's from the rear like above photo. I also bought a Haynes manual and for most of the information I seem to get out of that, I might as well have bought the story of the three little pigs. There is a wiring harness on top and looks like it will have to be moved to do anything. Also does the fuel rails have to be removed to do the job?
The E350 is a 2000 model, it's an ex rental motor home, but has been well maintained. I had 102,000 miles on it when I got it in 2005.
This looks like a tough job and certainly a costly one to have done at a dealership.
Willis

 

You think THAT'S bad? You gotta see one of the first EFI 460's in a van chassis. Or even a 351W.

Take pictures as you take stuff off

 

And just how is one supposed to get a camera in there let alone focus it?

Actually COP's 3,4 & 5 are visible, 3's a bit iffy at this point but it doesn't look like the fuel rail will have to come off. The wire harness definately will have to be out of the way, however it doesn't look like there's much if any slack in it. It's possible when all the plugs are off the COP's and injectors a bit of slack might be found. Also there is a couple of plugs & sockets close to #1 cyl. that seem to be part of the wire harness, perhaps that will be the key to getting some slack.
Well now, if the EFI 460's and 351's installed in a van are worse, I'll not be buying one As I recall the 1975 E150 I had there was lots of room but one plug had to be changed underneath but it wasn't a difficult job. Just too much crap added to these new engines. I probably won't do this until next year but it will be well planned out. I did find the IAC though (by curiosity) so guess I'd better get a spare.

Willis

 

Sorry, in this day and age, I'm thinking digital cameras. My 3-year-old Sony can take pictures as close as 5 inches at 7 megapixels. Sorta like a hand-held microscope when you look at the picture at 100% zoom ...

 

Owww WilleyB, my heart goes out to you!
At least w/ the class "A", I was right on top of the engine. (time for you to upgrade!) I had an E350 before this one, but it was the small V8.
I'd say you've got the time to research, research, research!
In addition to this forum, search the forums like RVnet.com & IRV2.com.
I'm sure someone must have tackled the E350 before.
If not, you can be the pioneer!

 

Well my camera is a digital, but it's an older one, 2 or 3 pixels. It does have a setting for close ups, but all the same it would be nice to see just what I'm supposed to be taking a photo of. Oh! I'll do the change, won't like it and will most likely invent some words never heard before I'll record it as much as possible to help the next poor unsuspecting victim. I know it's been done before because of the wrench marks on the COP bolts, I just don't know when it was done. The book says the next scheduled is at 110K miles so maybe this Fall I'll have a go at it.

Thanks for the sympathy, but I have to finish paying for this one before buying anything else. By the time that's done I'll probably have this one so modified to suit our needs that I won't want to part with it. Pioneering is for other people, me I'm a follower, it's a lot easier. The reason I have to go through with this on my own is I notice there are a couple of late model RV's a certain "A" & a certain "C" that spend a lot of time at the Ford dealer. This doesn't impress me, makes me wonder why and if they are getting the job done right. The "A" has a V10 also. While I was at the RV dealer's getting the Dometic fridge mod. done the RV tech suggested I have the tranny serviced. I asked where, and he certainly didn't recommend the Ford dealer. I guess I don't want to be a regular customer popping plugs and coming in for questionable insert repairs
Yep I'm active on all those forums maybe I'll toss that question in later when I have time to do a discussion, right now I'm up to my eyeballs in coach modifications including new floor covering. I didn't like the way they put the last one in. and I didn't like the molding trim they used
Thanks for posting your experience changing the plugs, the steps will be the same, but it looks like they'll be a lot more difficult for me to do
Could always take the seats out that would give me a lot more room to work in.
Hmmm! for the E350, step one "take out the Pilot and Co Pilot seats" it's only 4 fasteners each.
Thanks for the replies
Willis