Hello,

Ok, so I have an otherwise always dependable '97 ranger
2.3l, 5spd. man., with 201+k mi..
It wont start after it stalled slowing on a turn, immediately tried to recover by popping clutch, which it completely disregarded.
I called my husband, he and I tried popping clutch after an unsuccessful jump attempt. He pushed me with another car, had it in 2nd, let out the clutch and on the normal "grab" the rear tires do right before it starts, its losing all momentum and is just enough to come to a dead stop.
OK,so... after trying that about half a dozen times no luck no progress, we abort until morning when checker opens.
Put new negative cable on battery, (the positive waschanged a little over year agoThe battery about then also) tried to start it up with the same results. Oh, how we concluded to being the negative was the fact it was hot as all get out, and it was corroded all the through, end to end. (the starter was also hot). Anyway , NO GO and doing the same thing and still getting heat from both. It sounds like a low dead battery when cranking. ( battery is a waterless Optima).
If anyone knows what I may have overlooked or what this may be & how to fix, I would greatly appriciate it if you could let me know. Sorry for length of post, trying to be informative.

 

Welcome to FTE 005h4rp
hot starter and hot wiring is excessive current draw, since you say the battery and now both cables are new, I would take the starter off and have it tested as the first place I would check. Now that would be my first indicator but the stall, and the won't turn over push starting it has me worried about the engine binding up somehow, something is not right here, one possibility is have you checked the timing belt, on the older 2.3s I had one break (which killed the engine of coarse) and it wound itself around the crank gear and made it so the engien wouldn't even turn over hardly. Just something to check.

 

I agree with Rob, check the timing belt.

 

Since it happened going around a corner, the easiest thing to check might be the fuel cutoff switch. Look for it under the passenger side kick panel.

 

Thank You for such a quick response. Actually, that was what we were thinking too. We took the starter off and had it tested....passed. Ok, so, good battery, good cables, good starter. It's funny you mention the timing belt because we were actually in process of changing that earlier this week. When we got to the camshaft bolt, wasnt sure best way to remove, aborted mission. Put the truck back together, had some stalling occur here and there but drove fine. Can't believe didnt come to mind to check it out, too focused on the battery/starter stuff, I guess. That is a definate possibility, I'll check it out and post what I find. My question now is, if it is the timing belt, methods of removal of camshaft bolt.... I've read alot of posts here, and most agree to disconnect coils and to "kick" the starter real fast, so it will turn and break free. Is this still a possibility if my timing belt is at fault? If not, what are some options, cause its not wanting to go anywhere. Thank You

 

Welcome to FTE 005h4rp. Im glad you chose the best site on the net for Ford-Trucks. See you around the boards!

Matt

 

If this is the older 2.3 liter unless the sprocket is bad you don't have to take the cam bolt loose. You have to loosen the idler assembly. The crank bolt needs to come out. Use an impact wrench if you got one. If not Put the truck in high gear set the parking brake and use a long break over to loosen the crank bolt.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "older" 2.3l. The truck was made in may of 97. It's definately the original engine in it. I dont want to remove any more than I need to , so thanks I'll look into that.
Hope that helps.

'

 

A '97 will have the "older" 2.3 liter.

From '98 to mid-'01 (I think), they had a 2.5 liter, then they came out with a completely new design 2.3 liter engine (a Mazda engine, actually).

 

Ok, upon further examination, the timing belt is there and is in place. The "teeth" on top of the belt are seated in the grooves as they should. (I was being attacked by mosquitos, so opted out of the removal of the cover, so...) Unless it is possible the lower part of the belt has gone, I would say it's ok, the top part even felt snug and didnt get any slack when I was looking at it.
SO... Good battery (read 12.4 v), Good new cables, Starter and
solenoid good. What could possibly be inhibiting this thing from starting, I recently have changed the plugs and wires also.
Could a vacum leak be causing it? I did notice this thing is literally throwing p/s fluid all over the driver side of eng. compartment (has been). I thought it was a damaged cap on the resevoir, replaced, same thing, I believe its the actual pump now.
The ONLY thing I can possibly think it could be are the coil packs or possibly the EGR. I would really like to get this truck on the road again, If anyone has some ideas, or suggestions, please let me know. Thank You, I really do appriciate everyones help.
Also, all fuses were good (and relays) as well as the fuel cutoff switch.

 

I'm taking eveything out of my way again and getting the cover to the timing belt of in the morning, so will give a definate answer tomarrow, (in regards to belt being there).
Also I dont understand why so much current is being drawn
and making the negative and starter hot.

 

Can you see if the cam gear turns when you crank it. If not then it is broke. See if you have fire to the plugs. It will turn over. See if you have fuel.

 

Did you check the fuel cutoff?

 

Well, solved this one.... unbelievable. Well, the a/c compressor has been bad for a little while, its been sounding kinda rough the last week especially. It didnt even occur to me to start there when it wouldnt start. I thought battery for sure. No, the a/c compressor totally locked up and my little truck couldnt and wouldnt keep turning. Luckily, I had another compressor laying around, it at least turns. The a/c has'nt worked right all year so I'm not worried about that. It will still need one, but at least I can go get it now. No belts were broken or anything (just bought new one) and its going fine again with no stalls. I have a few other parts I'm throwing on that should make all the difference. THANK YOU very much for all the help everyone, sorry I should start with the obvious next time instead of thinking the worst. (maybe I wont spend 3 days in the engine compartment then).