That depends on where you get your springs. Some guys have obrained them from a 4X4 shop (take-offs they had laying around after upgrading an F250/350) and some guys have obtained them from friends who have swapped them out for a lift kit, while others like me have purchased the springs new from Ford.

The four new springs and two new blocks for the rear cost me about $600 bucks from Ford. You can check JC Whitney for the cost on the Hellwig bar because I can't remember right now.

Stewart

 

John, I just added everything up. I forgot to include the cost of the Bilstein shocks in my original guess on the amount I paid, but I have a firm number for you now.

I spent $1,068.98 for four new springs from Ford, four new Bilsteins from E-Shocks, two new rear blocks from Ford, and the rear Hellwig sway bar from JC Whitney.

For me, it's money wisely spent for the safety of my wife and kids.

Stewart

 

Thanks for the reply. I also think that is money well spent. I have tried tuff country traction bars and bent one of them on off camber situations. This sounds like the real fix. JOHN

 

Just for clarification on this issue, Ford does say not to reuse. I found this in the Ford Service Manual for Excursion/Super Duty :



<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD>SECTION 204-01B: Front Suspension — 4x4


</TD><TD align=right>2005 Excursion Workshop Manual


</TD></TR><TR><TD>REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION




</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
CAUTION: Never reuse U-bolts. The U-bolts are a torque-to-yield design and cannot be retightened. Failure to use a new U-bolt can result in loose or broken springs and suspension components.

(emphasis in original)




This is what they say about the rear:



<TABLE width="95%"><TBODY><TR><TD>SECTION 204-02: Rear Suspension
</TD><TD align=right>2005 Excursion Workshop Manual
</TD></TR><TR><TD>REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
</TD><TD align=right>Procedure revision date: 07/02/2004
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<HR>Spring Removal and Installation

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. Install new parts with the same part number or an equivalent part if installation is necessary. Do not use an installation part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to

1. Support the rear axle with a suitable jack.

1. Remove the U-bolt retaining nuts and remove the U-bolts.

1. Remove the rear spring upper plate.

1. Remove the nut and bolt from the rear spring front hanger bracket.

1. Remove the lower nut and bolt from the rear spring shackle bracket. Remove the rear spring assembly.

1. Remove the nut and bolt from the rear spring shackle assembly and remove the rear spring shackle.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure, using new fasteners.
   • When installing the leaf spring-to-front spring hanger bracket bolt, refer to Specifications in this section for the correct torque value.

 

Thanks House.

My information was based on a well respected 4x4 suspension shop in my city. Since they are the "experts" with many years of service building rock crawlers and mudders, I wrongly assumed they would know.

Stewart

 

S-Harvey - Could you post some pics of your X? Possibly before and after?

 

If anyone in the central NJ area needs a set of V and B springs, let me know.
I have a set with very low miles and I'm tired of looking at them. They have
some rust on the ends from sitting out under my trailer but they have less than
4K miles on them... Make me a decent offer and they are yours...

(sorry for the hijack...)

 

Sorry, I have no "before" pictures, and I keep meaning to take some "after" pictures. When I do, I'll post them here.

Stewart

PS - Tf, no autopsy, no foul bro. I hope you sell them. I wish you lived closer to me because I'd have bought yours instead of getting mine from Ford.

 

Thanks Stewart! Sale pending to a forum member who is in my area....

 

My x is a 2 wheel drive year 2002. Would the v code - b code spring upgrade work for better handeling and ride quality?

 

isn't the 2wd coil in the front? if so, the v springs are leaf springs. the rears would work..

 

What is this tapered block for? What torque values did you use for the front and rear U-bolts?

 

When I did all my research on this upgrade, I came across a few threads where guys had swapped out their OEM blocks for those tapered blocks listed above. They did the swap because after the spring change, the rear of the Ex sat just a tad lower than the front. Others had different results after their spring swap, reporting a level stance. For the few who reported the rear too low, bigger blocks were used to offset the difference, slightly raising the rear higher than the front.

Since I planned on towing a 4-horse bumper pull, I knew the trailer would bring the rear end down when hooked up, so I didn't care if my Ex was level after the spring swap or not, I wanted the rear end slightly higher, so I added the tapered blocks.

It worked perfect for me. The rear of my Ex sits a tad higher than the front, and when the trailer is hooked up, it sits juuuuuuuust slightly lower than level.

Stewart

PS - Torque values were German. Good-n-tight.

 

guys,
What can I do and maintain very close to stock height. It will only clear my garage door at stock height by 1 inch on the luggage rack.. I noticed the front axle bumpers are getting worn,and they are only an inch or so clearance. I havent put my RAS on yet for the back, so that will raise the back and make it very close. Ideas...?

dave

 

Hey Dave, I see your fairly new to FTE so you may not know that on these UBB forums, sometimes it better to create your own thread asking the question that's specific to your problem, that way you get the maximum exposure and hopefully get a ton of response to help you out. Attaching your question to the end of a thread will mean that sometimes your question isn't seen and it may go unanswered, especially a three year old thread like this one.

As for your question, I'm not sure I understand. Since you can't add any lift to your Ex, what exactly are you wanting to do to your suspension?

BTW, going by others who have posted after adding the RAS, you will gain more than an inch lift on the rear.

Stewart