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Old Jan 6, 2006 | 11:26 PM
  #61  
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That pic shows them really well,

Now to find a 33" set of them for the Bronco.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 12:28 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
Well that takes all the fun out of it. Now I've got to hurry up and build that stroker. I'm taking my block to the shop next week. Get ready to spend my money Rob.
Always ready to spend your money, and getting pretty good at it if I must say so myself.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 08:37 AM
  #63  
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i heard something from brooke g. that goodyear no longer makes them oir something, and the company who bought the rights will be making them with shallower tread and or 2 mmore plies? im not sure

how much are these things a peice??


oh yea...are you runing the 16.1's?...are you running them on 16 inch wheels?
 

Last edited by IB Tim; Jan 8, 2006 at 07:16 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 10:37 AM
  #64  
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The company that bought these from Goodyear is called American Farmer (that's what mine are) and I don't remember on the ply count, I believe it's 6 but the tread depth is still 1.6", same as Goodyear had them. I paid about $350 a piece for mine, hoping to find them for even less here soon. I'm running them on 16" USA 6X6 beadlocks. I was originally gonna have 8 lug 16.1" rims built until I called and got a price. They wanted $260 each for the rims so I figured why bother when I can get beadlocks for less money. They are not a loose fit on the 16" rims and you could run these on a regular steel 16" wheel with no problems. The Alaska guys like to run theirs at really low PSI for their trails so they can get good flex out of them and they've had problems peeling these off the rim. However, they're using (or were anyway) 16.1" rims which have no safety bead, just like the 16.5's. With 16" wheels you may be able to air them down quite a bit without trouble. With the double beadlocks I can run them at whatever PSI I want and they have a soft sidewall so they'll flex really well over rock terrain needed.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #65  
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Ivan, you should edit that sig picture of the cap'n and use this one. BTW, anyone who wants that video, can have it, i took it. Ivan, get that other vid up, of you pulling out the cap'n. Apologize now for the crappy footage, i kept looking around the camera, and it would move then.

Those are the only 2 i have

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=101333&.jpg


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=101334&.jpg
 

Last edited by IB Tim; Jan 8, 2006 at 07:18 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 11:55 AM
  #66  
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I'll see if I can upload it tonight. I edited it down to just the last 40 seconds because the extraction took over 3 minutes (now I know why the tranny got hot) and the file was HUGE. I'm gonna make a new sig, just haven't go to it yet.

Hey Dusten, are you coming over for the 28th? And bringing the Bronco??
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #67  
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If i have the cobra done, i will bring the bronco, if not, i am working on my car. That new engine has me itching, i feel the need for a few 6K rpm blasts, i want to hear that blower scream.

PS i know how long it was, i was holding the dang camera, freezing
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #68  
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Now that is a cool pic.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2006 | 08:21 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
I think I posted that the ags have 1" lugs on them earlier which is false. They're 1.6" deep as opposed to the bogger's 26/32 depth (just over 3/4") so it's double the tread of a bogger plus a lot more space between the lugs so they clean easier. The nice thing is the diagonal cut of the lugs keeps them in constant contact with the road so they ride smooth whereas a bogger or especially a cut bogger will have a lumpiness to it in the mall parking lot. One more thing that makes the ags superior to a bogger in some aspects is that the diagonal tread offers lateral stability. A bogger on a muddy side hill tends to slide really bad and has been the cause of more than one roll over. The tread being as deep as it is on these would make them a bad choice for a mud drag, unless you were to do some good cutting on them and even then I think a properly cut bogger would whoop them but for overall muddy terrain and general bogging/wheeling I think these are the way to go. Some of the ags can be expensive but I got a decent deal on these (cheaper than a 44" bogger) and am looking into another dealer who might be able to get the other pair for me for less money yet.
I think it is really cool you got the Cap'n running, especially on ag tires... However, if you were a real man, you would have tested the CTMs and put the ag tires on the front ...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 12:49 AM
  #70  
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I'm not worried one bit about the CTM's. It's the front driveshaft that concerns me. I ran my hubs for the new years run just because I figured my driveshaft would blow up and I'd need to tie it up and drive home. If I get my other set of ags before the 28th I'll clearance the driveshaft yokes and throw the flanges on and then we'll see how that front axle holds up.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #71  
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Dude thats frickin awesome .

Hey so one can run a 16.1 ag tire on a steel 16" rim? I'm wondering this as there are several junk swathers in the area with good rubber (roughly 39-42") and they all use a 16.1 tire, and as you notice 16.1 rims custom made ain't cheap.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 08:42 PM
  #72  
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Yes, 16.1's will run on a 16" rim. I've heard people say that they fit "loosely" but this wasn't the case for me, it was a nice snug fit. I've also heard it said that they are labeled as a 16.1 just to keep people from trying to put them on street tires, which I believe is probably true. My tires call for a 16" wide rim and I went with a 12" wide rim which seems to be about perfect. I can't imagine running these on a rim 4" wider, the sidewalls really come in at the center.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 11:35 PM
  #73  
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Awesome, yeah runnin a narrower rim would help keep the bead seated a bit better as well. And honesty .1 of an inch in total diameter ain't going to make a huge difference in how tight it fits on the rim.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 11:42 PM
  #74  
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Ivan, are you having trouble at the tcase now? Or did you not turn your pinion up enough? If you are still having problems at the pinion we can look at a double cv again.

RubberDuck
 
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 12:01 AM
  #75  
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Well no problems in particular Duck. Here's the deal: My pinion angle is 0º up front. The angle at the t-case is about 27º which is where the issue is. That CV is maxed out and if my driver's side tire drops at all there's binding in it. So my plan was to have High Angle build me a new shaft that could handle 27º no trouble. Jesse can do it, but it'll cost me better than $700. Eventually I'll do it but I can't afford it right now. My plan was to get the ol' grinder out and clearance the yokes a bit so I could run this shaft for now but I didn't get time before the bog. Surprisingly though, the shaft held up fine. When I head back down there at the end of the month I'll clearance the yokes and run that for the rest of the year or until I blow it up. Then I'm buying one from Jesse.
 
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