Group Tech Article Input - Welding
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
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From: Near Fresno, California
OK, the big problem with the last test was the lap weld instead of a butt weld - correct?
If we do a butt weld and bend it at the weld the v of the plunger will be against the weld - sort of like a dull knife? In our case the bottom of the plunger is a angle iron set 45 degrees. (see picture of the press above) Will this be OK?
If we do a butt weld and bend it at the weld the v of the plunger will be against the weld - sort of like a dull knife? In our case the bottom of the plunger is a angle iron set 45 degrees. (see picture of the press above) Will this be OK?
Last edited by WillyB; Mar 14, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
Originally Posted by nixer
ill tell you that test isnt doesnt mean anything really. its not a proper or an approved testing method for any weld. an actual test would be to butt up too plates with say an 1/8 or so gap and use a backup strip then remove the backup strip and cut 2 1" wide strips out of the plate and bend it in a press.
Are you just saying have a plate to clamp the two butt'ed pieces to keep them flat?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
Originally Posted by WillyB
OK, the big problem with the last test was the lap weld instead of a butt weld - correct?
If we do a butt weld and bend it at the weld the v of the plunger will be against the weld - sort of like a dull knife? In our case the bottom of the plunger is a angle iron set 45 degrees. (see picture of the press above) Will this be OK?
If we do a butt weld and bend it at the weld the v of the plunger will be against the weld - sort of like a dull knife? In our case the bottom of the plunger is a angle iron set 45 degrees. (see picture of the press above) Will this be OK?
I had made those years ago to press some 90*s out of some 12ga flat bar.
It'll take 3/16th to near a 90 though.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
I think the backup strip is to keep over penetration from forming a bead on the back side which would provide unequal comparison? I also think that cutting a 1" strip out of the center is to use the most consistant part of the weld, you typically get less penetration at the start of the weld since it is cold, and increased penetration at the end due to concentrating the heat, neither condition is typical of the body of the weld. IIRC the bend is made at the seam with the bead to the inside like clamping the one side in a vice and folding the rest over. The amount of force is immaterial, you are just looking at penetration, does the weld split or hold when folded? A good weld should be as strong or stronger than the parent metal so there should not be a failure. For our purposes I think it might be even more meaningful if the bead was ground down flush before bending, since we often do this and excess bead on the surface will not add false strength.
Last edited by AXracer; Mar 14, 2006 at 11:04 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Near Fresno, California
jeez - now you tell us! But your wish is our command. Can we cut the strip using a torch, or must we put up with the noise of a chop saw?
This time I will stop by a wrecking yard and get some frame to play with. We both have extra frames around, but are not willing to cut a chunk out of them.
This time I will stop by a wrecking yard and get some frame to play with. We both have extra frames around, but are not willing to cut a chunk out of them.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
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From: Oakdale,Ca.
Chop saw...cheaper then lighting the torch, and cleaner too
I think I understand now that AX has explained it.
It'll be probably Friday at the earliest before I get a chance to get wire.
I'll have to figure out a jig to hold things in the press safely.
I think I understand now that AX has explained it.
It'll be probably Friday at the earliest before I get a chance to get wire.
I'll have to figure out a jig to hold things in the press safely.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: indiana
2 4x12" long plates 33 degree v bevel 1/8" root opening backup strip with your choice of metal.
weld it up flat vertical and overhead then go 1" from each end and cut 2 1" strips perpendicular to the weld.(total 2 strips to be bend)
after cutting your strips remove the backup strip usually can be twisted off with a vice and a cresent wrench.
dress up the side where you pulled off the backup strip.
then you want to bend one from the root and one from the face side in a U shape.
scoring is this if it breaks or if it has more than 1/32 of slag trapped in there then you failed
if you use 1" thick plate and 1"x1/4" backup is what most welding shops will use for their certification tests
weld it up flat vertical and overhead then go 1" from each end and cut 2 1" strips perpendicular to the weld.(total 2 strips to be bend)
after cutting your strips remove the backup strip usually can be twisted off with a vice and a cresent wrench.
dress up the side where you pulled off the backup strip.
then you want to bend one from the root and one from the face side in a U shape.
scoring is this if it breaks or if it has more than 1/32 of slag trapped in there then you failed
if you use 1" thick plate and 1"x1/4" backup is what most welding shops will use for their certification tests
Last edited by nixer; Mar 15, 2006 at 04:10 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: New Mexico
I have a ton of Oxweld No. 7 copper-coated welding rod. Its fine for O/A welding but I'd like to use some for tig. Since I don't want the copper coating in the tig weld as a contaminant, how can I dissolve the copper coating off of the rod- a few sticks at a time, so I can use it for tig?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: indiana
you can use almost every oxy/act rod for tig, with exception for those ones with flux on the rod for like stainless and aluminum and a few other alloys
oh yea you can also use solid mig welding wire as well not the flux cored type though
oh yea you can also use solid mig welding wire as well not the flux cored type though
Last edited by nixer; Mar 20, 2006 at 06:07 PM.
Elder User
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From: Oromocto NB
Originally Posted by AXracer
*****, yes a curved seam is more desirable whenever possible, taking into account also where you can get a dolly behind the seam. A curve is a shorter distance than a square corner so you will have a shorter weld seam to deal with as well. Unfortunately when dealing with body rot it is usually the entire lower edge that needs replacing, so a curved seam is not always possible.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You can cut pretty good curves with that little wheel.
Just cut out the bad part with as nice a line as you can. Then make a rough cut on your patch panel slightly oversized and fit it up inside the cutout and clamp it in position and mark it with a fine tip marker. Drop it down and make the next cut just at the edge of your mark. It'll fit.
Just cut out the bad part with as nice a line as you can. Then make a rough cut on your patch panel slightly oversized and fit it up inside the cutout and clamp it in position and mark it with a fine tip marker. Drop it down and make the next cut just at the edge of your mark. It'll fit.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Bdox gives a good and common solution, cut the hole first then scribe and cut the patch, it's fairly easy to cut around the outside of a curve with precision, and/or sand it to perfection. Another option is a power shear the type that cuts a 1/4" strip out of the metal or a nibbler, basically a fast hole punch for metal. The shear doesn't cut tight inside curves very readily but is good for long lines, the nibbler can cut pretty intricate shapes down to the radius of it's punch, but it harder to use to cut a straight line. Both cut without distorting the metal.