bogging at full throttle
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Joined: Sep 2005
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bogging at full throttle
I have a 1992 ranger that seems to be bogging and almost cutting out at a WOT and at a heavy load whie trying to go up a hill. I have to barely tap the gas to get it to go up a hill, if not it will stall or just bog really bad. Ithink it might be overheating cause it is extremely hot, but i dont believe the temp guage is working,c ause it doesnt show it running hot. What could be the problem here?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
It's real simple to check the temp gauge. Just remove the connector from the sending unit & ground it to the engine, turn the key to run & it should read full hot.
As far as the bogging, it could be a weak fuel pump or clogged cat. Check fuel pressure & put a vacuum gauge on it.
As far as the bogging, it could be a weak fuel pump or clogged cat. Check fuel pressure & put a vacuum gauge on it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Time to retrieve any stored trouble codes from the computer. Find the EEC Test Connector under the hood and follow the instructions here, then post any codes you get. It may take a few times to get used to it, but learning how to pull codes is important if you are going to be taking care of your truck yourself. Or you can pick up an EEC-IV Code Reader at any parts store for 30 bucks or so and make it easier.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
If this was my truck I'd hookup my Actron CP-9087 sensor tester to the MAF & test it.
It's a very quick and simple test.
But, if you dont want to spend a few bucks for the sensor tester, try cleaning the MAF & see if that helps.
It's a very quick and simple test.
But, if you dont want to spend a few bucks for the sensor tester, try cleaning the MAF & see if that helps.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Particularly in EEC-IV (Pre-'95 for Rangers), the MAF and TPS work together to tell the computer just how much air the engine is inhaling. Sometimes it's easy forget that it isn't just the MAF signal that determines what the computer is thinking, air-wise. The point is that ,if one sensor ("X") is bad, the other sensor ("Y") can often throw codes on account of the bad data being emitted (by X).
Good idea to try cleaning the MAF for starters.
Also, do this: run the codes again, and make sure of what you have. Make a note of the codes, and then erase them from the computer's memory. This can be done by removing the cable from the negatve battery post for 10 minutes or so. After a few days of regular driving and experiencing the same issues, pull the codes again. This will ensure that any stored codes will be 'fresh', and hence they will more likely be directly related to your current driveability concern(s).
Good idea to try cleaning the MAF for starters.
Also, do this: run the codes again, and make sure of what you have. Make a note of the codes, and then erase them from the computer's memory. This can be done by removing the cable from the negatve battery post for 10 minutes or so. After a few days of regular driving and experiencing the same issues, pull the codes again. This will ensure that any stored codes will be 'fresh', and hence they will more likely be directly related to your current driveability concern(s).
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