I thought I'd seen a post with pics on this before, but my awesome search skills didn't turn it up. Anyways, here's a pic of the crack I have on my passenger side frame rail right behind the cab mount.



What is the best most correct repair for this? Would it be something like this:

remove cab mount
drill hole to stop crack propogation
grind out and weld
grind smooth
high five on job well done

I thought I saw a procedure similar to this on here, but maybe it was someones website. Are there any other options? Is this overkill or the right way? I would also assume it would be best to take care of this before sending my frame out for blasting and primer.

Thanks as always,

Ron

 

You forgot the beer. Looks like a six packer to me. I have a page on my web site that shows how we fixed my frame cracks. There are a couple other problem areas I found on my frame such as the tranny crossmember. They are detailed on my frame restoration page. I didn't know these cracks existed until I blasted the rust off. A rather unpleasant surprise. Since you're basically having your frame blasted and painted in one step, you might want to take a really close look at these areas before sending it off.

Hope this helps!

Kevin Kessler
1953 Ford F-100

 

Yeah, that's the ticket. Especially the beer and the high-five parts.
You da man!

 

Kevin,

Thanks for the links, that was the page I was looking for, bookmarked now!

Ok, so I pulled the passenger side cab mount off. Went really quick, thanks to new best friend the air hammer. Cleaned it up with the wire wheel and here's what we got:



Should I pound the frame rail back into shape first, then do the weld repair? What could have caused a divot like that, plus sized passenger? Where would the best place be to drill the relief hole be? At the end of the crack or at the top of the frame rail before the frame radiuses? Sorry for all the Q's but this is my 1st attempt at this, and I want to get it right.

Ron

 

just mho but I don't know if I wouldn't consider boxing that area after the drill/grind/weld/finish/beer portion is complete... it couldn't hurt and would make me feel safer if it were mine ?????

later

john

 

I did a simular repair right behind the front wheel on my 1980 Corvette two years ago. I used a wire feed welder and the flux cored .035 wire. I run a bead and welded up the crack and then ground it down smooth. Then took a piece of steel the same thickness as the frame and welded it over top of the crack on all four sides. I check it about once a month and so far it has held great. Before I did it I checked with a few frame shops and they wanted anywhere from 6 to 8 hundred dollars to do it.

 

Goobzilla - To answer your question, you won't need to drill a hole at the end of the crack since there is already a big one there. I would extend the crack to that hole.
Pound the flange straight, bevel the edges of the crack, weld it up and grind it smooth.
I would also box it like John said. See my gallery for an idea about the boxing plate.

 

LMFAO, he said "plus sized passenger".................... Thats great man keep it up...LOL

 

Since it was the passenger side, maybe it was a HEFFER he once took out on a DATE!
LMAO,
Kevin Bigwin