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Ron, from what I've seen so far on the frame I threw away & the one I bought to replace it, that is probably the most important cross member on the whole truck. That part of the frame is taking the front 1/2 of the cab, the back half of the front springs as well as any frame twisting or bending.
Right now I'm going back & forth between using the stock cross member & extra exhaust bends or straight exhaust & a custom cross member. But either way I want some strength back at this location.
My thoughts are all based on the stock front leaf spring suspension & using a good sized V8 engine. If you were going I.F.S. 7 boxing the frame my advice might be different.
The stock cross member that attached to the transmission bell housing ears will not accommodate a C-6 without some serious trimming. Most conversions remove that crossmember unless you use a small case transmission like a C4. Most conversions use a strong crossmember at the rear of the transmission. It also helps to have some structure under the engine mounts instead of flanges sticking out from the frame rails. The stock motor was held by one front mount below the crank and two side mounts off the transmission/rear of engine. You can look in my gallery at the C6 cross member. They are easy to fabricate or can be purhased for around $40.
I do have the C-6 cross member that I bought from Mid-Fifty. It is definitely a stout unit. The mounts in the truck now look pretty homemade. Maybe I'd be better off cutting those off and going with an aftermarket bolt-in engine mount for even more added strength.
Ron, do get the one piece engine mount for your 390 (fe engine). That would stiffen up the frame quite a bit. Got mine from jc whitney, but other places do have them. Good luck.
Originally posted by ranger pat The stock cross member that attached to the transmission bell housing ears will not accommodate a C-6 without some serious trimming. Most conversions remove that crossmember unless you use a small case transmission like a C4. Most conversions use a strong crossmember at the rear of the transmission.
As Ranger Pat put it, that crossmember has to come out or be seriously trimmed with most any automatic tranny. I had to cut mine out of my F-3 because it set the tranny up too high and would have required serious floor surgery. I'd say you need some kind or reinforcement there if running the stock suspension or a good strong transmission crossmember as Ranger Pat suggested. In my case, when I added the Volare IFS I boxed the frame up to the cab mounts, so I don't need that crossmember. You have to be careful though with how much boxing you do with a stock suspension because you need that flex in the frame to make the suspension work...
Wow! I think our previous owners are related. My parts truck looks eerily similar:
They had a 351C in it with some sort of auto tranny. I want to put a 223 in it but I need the stock tranny crossmember. Any engine swappers out there with a crossmember cluttering up the workshop?
I may have one, i haven't decided whether or not mine will stay. I got my engine swap to fit with it but it left me almost no room and if i need to drop the tranny its gotta come out of the engine compartment. I just got my mockup motor in right now. The real motor will be going in in the next couple weeks. Remind me about it in about 2 weeks Kevin and if you want it and i take it off it is your for shipping costs
aaaahhh. you should not have written this post!
when i saw it i had to go out in the garage to see how things was arranged in my engine-room, (since it was originally a 6-sylinder) and, yes , you guessed it . It is burnt off with a torch! there will be no sleep tonight !!!
Goobzilla, That's the way I went; a one piece front motor mount set up for an FE engine and a one piece rear trans mount set up which I have the option of either a C-6 or a T-18. That'll make your frame stronger. Good luck.
I remember that Joe (blue Oval Rage) showed us pictures of a real stout looking trans crossmember he made up, in a thread a while back. Using something like that should certainly get rid of any concerns about frame strength. i do believe that the crossmember needs to tie all the way across the height of the frame rail to prevent the twisting that the cab mounts will put into the frame.
And that sums up my reasoning for staying with a Y-Block I get to keep my front and rear crossmembers. There are plenty of Hi Po parts available for the Y now so there is no excuse for not hopping one up. Stock mounting autos are available that will handle anything you can dish out to it. Granted parts are a liitle more expensive than belly buttons but you get what you pay for.
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