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2003 e 350 xlsd has 123 miles on it and abs light wont go out????? any clues???
Could be one of a couple things. Up front, under the rotors are two anti lock sensors, if you knock either of those around a bit, you can get an ABS warning light. Normally it's the vehicle speed sensor, which is $12 and plugs into your rear-end housing. Up on top of your pumpkin you'll see it, it has a couple wires going into it, unplug them and replace the VSS. But at 123 miles, it's still under warranty, take it to the dealer, make them fix it ! Ken
Could be one of a couple things. Up front, under the rotors are two anti lock sensors, if you knock either of those around a bit, you can get an ABS warning light. Normally it's the vehicle speed sensor, which is $12 and plugs into your rear-end housing. Up on top of your pumpkin you'll see it, it has a couple wires going into it, unplug them and replace the VSS. But at 123 miles, it's still under warranty, take it to the dealer, make them fix it ! Ken
How much are the ABS sensors? Are they easily replaced too? My ABS lights come on occasionally, but do not stay on.
ABS sensors on the differential are typically under $20
At the brakes might be $40.
Typically, all you need to do is clean the sensor & pickup. Magnets pick up metal shavings from the differential and this clogs up the sensor so that it doesn't see the magnet passing by...hence, a sensor failure. ABS sensor has to detect axle rotation to detect if you have lost traction & locked up a wheel. ABS prevents wheel lockup. Usually, just a dirty sensor...results in ABS light.
Typically, all you need to do is clean the sensor & pickup. Magnets pick up metal shavings from the differential and this clogs up the sensor so that it doesn't see the magnet passing by...hence, a sensor failure. ABS sensor has to detect axle rotation to detect if you have lost traction & locked up a wheel. ABS prevents wheel lockup. Usually, just a dirty sensor...results in ABS light.
I had to turn a front rotor, so I cleaned the ABS sensor of all the metal shavings, and cleaned the toothed gear on the rotor as well, then had the ABS light come on. But maybe it's the other side that I didn't spend much time cleaning ? Or maybe I knocked the wire a little loose, and driving it loosened it a little more. I live in a townhouse so it's difficult to get a place and the time to tear into the brakes, but I will check these out soon as I also have an on/off CEL so I probably have a bad O2 sensor I need to diagnose and replace as well. It's always something, always.
...actually mess up a magnetic pick-up sensor...go figure.
If you found one side bad, then the other side was probably dirty too. Do the same cleaning on the other brake and you may then find your light goes away and ABS returns.
I find the yellow ABS light to be the most annoying thing about not having ABS. I have had a half dozen cars in my life time and my folks before that and none of them had ABS and we always found ways to stop. When my ABS first activated it almost caused me to take my foot off because it thumps the pedal pretty hard. It does prevent locking up the brakes, but really...if you are having to lock up your brakes, then you are probably driving out of control or at least non-defensively. If you are a careful & safe driver, you should never need ABS and there's probably few real cases where it actually benefits the situation. But that yellow annoying ABS light on your dash is perpetual.
I usually find that is sometimes always something, but its usually the last thing that you fix that works...or it doesn't.
I had my explorer towed after it died on me coming off freeway. Was able to coast to a parking lot where I got towed. I had to push vehicle backwards to line up with tow truck and he hooked vehicle from rear and pulled it up onto flat bed after repairs to engine i got vehicle back and noticed abs light was on was this caused by moving it backwards and pulling it ramp and what is the fix
If you have four wheel ABS there is a rear differential sensor too-----located at the top of the differential housing, typically held in place with a 13mm head bolt. This is positioned so it "reads" the gear tooth speed and can be affected by small particles clinging to it, obscuring its ability to "read". You might try cleaning this sensor and/or checking its connector---worst case scenario you'll have to replace it.
FWIW I have this problem now and the code cannot be canceled or erased even temporarily with a scanner that typically can clear codes.
Not sure of the cost but Horizon Ford aka Ed The Parts Guy advertises here and from past experience they're a good operation, save you money over OEM full list prices.
Update: replace my RABS differential sensor and the MIL was immediately extinguished, no scanner needed to clear the code. Here's a photo of the sensor as removed and then cleaned. I forgot to snap a photo of the new one before it went in!
HTH
Last edited by JWA; Aug 21, 2011 at 08:02 AM.
Reason: Added Photo
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