SC Update II
thanks,
Brad
Did you ever get the last pick I sent you for belt routing?
I had a problem with my belt at first too. The bolt for the top SC idler was just a little to long and it caused my belt to slip also. But in my case it sliped forward and cut through my $216 AC hose. (nice to have a Ford Mech for a friend! cost me nothing) Any way, I just put a small 1/8" spacer on the bolt. It works fine know.
Where are you getting your after cooler from? and how much dose it go for?
Charles6,
It dose have a small blow off valve. Although you can't really hear it.
I got the install complete, and learned my battery was toasted. LMAO. I went out and bought a new one, but dont feel the truck is running right. It lags some, almost like it wants to die sometimes. I will re-check the plugs, and make sure they are what I need in my application now. I didnt check in the first place and I should have. The intercooler I found on eBay. do a search for intercooler spearco and see what you get.
Garrett
How much boost are you running? If you're running 10-12psi I think you'll pull ~270rwhp/~290rwtq
*Edit - I totally guessed on the torque. A lot of stangs with near stock motors and a supercharger make about 280 torque at the wheels so you will probably see more. For comparison purposes.. A 2001 3.8L 5-speed. Vortech V2-SQ @ 13 psi, Fordchip, 36# injectors, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 255lph fuel pump, MAC high flow catalytic h-pipe, dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series, Jacobs Wires, FMS AWSF22C plugs
He pulled 287.3/289.7
Dyno Graph
So here's to hoping that your estimate of 267 and mine of 270 are low!
Last edited by V6Mustang; Mar 1, 2004 at 03:04 AM.
"*Edit - I totally guessed on the torque. A lot of stangs with near stock motors and a supercharger make about 280 torque at the wheels so you will probably see more. For comparison purposes.. A 2001 3.8L 5-speed. Vortech V2-SQ @ 13 psi, Fordchip, 36# injectors, 75mm Pro-M MAF, 255lph fuel pump, MAC high flow catalytic h-pipe, dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series, Jacobs Wires, FMS AWSF22C plugs"
Those are some nice mods to the stang. I am sticking with mine for a bit. I dont want to upgrade before I even get the darn thing running right. I should be running at or about 6 PSI, but I have yet to go WOT, due to the hesitation feeling. I want to insall the AF and boost gauges I got from a guy at got-pressure. On top of that, my steering is a little tight...I can hear a slight squeal when I do turn slowly. Its kinda weird. Thinking about the RPM thing, it only happened after I punched the gass a little...heh...It sounded soooo COOL though. To hear the SC dump the air is AWESOME. I will keep all updated.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I order the spark plugs by someones reccomendation. I figured since they were good in the area of superchargers, they knew what plug I needed. So without checking my plugs first, I ordered AWSF22Cs. They have a 4 thread head. The motorcrafts I pulled out are AGWF34E.....8 thread....Needless to say I have the wrong spark plugs, because I didnt take the time to verify the plugs I already had.
Garrett
Important note: How many threads you see on the outside of the plug does not matter one single bit. Your plug does NOT thread in all the way anyway. It could have 500 threads on it and will still stop where it's supposed to, you'll just see some thread sticking out of your motor where the plug is.
My Autolite 764,s were like that. They only had like 3 rows of thread, but still threaded in all the way and worked perfect. When I dumped the nitrous and picked up a standart platinum set of Autolights, they had like 15 rows of thread, but the plug still threaded in the same amount, and they work great.
don't worry about the threads, it's misguiding. Only way to really tell is to screw them in and start her up. Try it.
tom
I do not understand. Are you saying that you installed your spark plugs, they tightened down fully, but there was still thread exposed above the top surface of the plug hole in the head?
If that is the case, what stopped the plug from going in any further?
What did it, in essence, "seat on"?
I have never seen plugs tighten down and still have thread showing.
Something seems amiss here.
In essence, what I am saying is the length of the threaded portion can vary, but all of the threads should be screwed into the head and the plug torqued down against the top of the plug hole in the head.
Last edited by BrianA; Mar 4, 2004 at 08:21 AM.
GARRETT, I is important to note that when you are running a power adder, be it nitrous or an SC, you need to run a colder plug.
Colder plugs WILL NOT extend as far inside your cylinder as normal temp plugs, therefore it is perfectly normal for your colder plugs to have less threads. It is the intention of the plug to seat more shallow in your cylinder.
If your unsure, Autolite 764's are proven tried and true. Just about every single high performance mustang out there uses them. They are 2 full steps colder than your stock plug and are not platinum. They too have less threads on them than the stock plug.
Install the plugs and start the truck. The colder plugs will also reduce gas mileage, price paid for power.
Tom
Last edited by Busa01; Mar 4, 2004 at 08:36 AM.
Garrett
tip: remove your front tires and access the plugs from the wheel wells. Take you 5 minutes to change your plugs from this angle, and the view is unubstructed!
Tom



