Been there, thought that

After I got my Galaxie running I thought about putting a 6-71 on the truck. One small problem, at least with the set up I have. I think I would have to cut the cowl or do some revamping of the mounting for the blower to move it forward a touch. It would basically hit the cowl sticking up under the hood and the carbs would be no place good. This is not a total bad thing. I know with some basic modifications it would work.

I run a Blue Thunder blower manifold with a BDS drive on a stock 6-71. If you moved it forward you could get a shorter drive and make it fit. If I had the garage space someday maybe I will swap motors around and just see what it would take. No real hurry right now though.

Larry

 

That's cool larry. I was thinking about a Paxton Novi 2000 or such blower. I'd put an intercooler after it, and run it at 10-15lbs boost. For precise fuel control, I'd go with a holley fuel injection system.

I was thinking I'd use an Edelbrock Victor FE with the injectors in the "unmachined nitrous bosses" that it comes with. I figure this would be about the perfect spot for injectors. That with one of the holley 1000cfm billet throttle bodies w/ IAC would work great.

What do you think? Just a crazy idea I came up with for after I get $$$.

 

no to change the subject but sence we are on boost what about a twin or single turbo an fe. just imagine the HP you could you could produce out of a boosted fe. with the already strong as H#@@ internals and naturaly big vaulves you are nearly there alls you need is some low compression pistons and a cam made for boost sounds like fun.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking, however the turbo plumbing would be kind of a PITA. Throwing a centrifugal on there would be far easier IMO.

Additionally, when you go above 600ft-lbs you start getting main cap walk. I think a good set of ARP main studs would solve this, though.

 

Here's the bad news. I had a Vortech on my '96 460 F350 dually. It was SWEET!! Man do I miss driving that truck. Anyhoo, I kept the s/c when I traded the truck in. I had it for 3 yrs until I finally sold it on Ebay about 2 yrs ago.

It would have been PERFECT to bolt on the old 352 to make'r wake up a bit

Once again I sold something that I could have used

The turbo thing I have been contemplating also. I have a few friends that play with that stuff and this past winter they were showing me their new parts. I got to thinking..........................uh oh....LOL!

Well........I am thinking of manufacturing a set of upside down headers with flanges to mount a small turbo above the valve cover on each side. I am thinking the small turbo's off like a turbo coupe or such. Using a carb box from Paxton or such plumb each side right to it. You could probably run the exhaust down the outside of the frame right in front of the cab mounts and back. With this I would hope to be able to get the valve covers off with turbo's installed(but maybe remove plumbing). There is alot of space under the hood and I don't think you would have to crowd anything. I have a welder and lots of places to make any machined parts(since I work at a machine shop )

I have one complete motor sitting in the garage yet(352? I think) that would be a good mock up. I also have the '69 that does not get driven everyday for some mock up work also. The turbo's would be pretty cheap and I am thinking just like 6 lbs of boost for a start. Don't want to blow it up the first day. It would make a real highway screamer and NEATO daily driver!!!

BTW, even using stud kits the caps WILL WALK!!! Been there. Once you start turning some rpm's and making power it will move around. My race car motor(428) has a set of 427 cross bolt caps on it. I machined the block myself and had it line honed. Looks factory and works great.

Larry

 

Not to encourage this type of behavior. but there is a company now doing "Remote Location" of turbos for F-Body and other cars.

For a car like my Camaro, the turbo is clear back behind the differential. This reduces under-hood temps substantially. And you don't have t come up with some expensive header/exhaust arrangement.

I'll see if I can find the link.

 

I dont doubt that they will walk, but ARP says that their stud kits eliminate main cap walk. See here. I trust experience before whatever any manufacturer says, though.

 

OK, here's the remote turbo location vendor. I think this would have a lot of potential for an F Series...Keep that heat out of the engine bay. Don't mess with custom headers etc.

http://www.ststurbo.com/




Hmmmm I can't run a turbo at 10.5:1 on pump gas , can I?

 

The way I drive, I'd need a skid plate on that thing!

Cool idea though. --Mike

 

You MIGHT want to run an intercooler.

 

Run some stack exhaust, and plumb up an intercooler with a radiator like Proeliator has.

 

You guys are a TRIP!!! it must be Friday!!!!

Just mount a couple of Hair Dryers on the HOOD!!! LOL!!!

They will be Cool...and wont heat up the engine compartment!

 

I ran two bolt mains in my first motor (406 block) and they walked. I then installed cross bolt caps. When I "lost" that motor the next one(428 block) I ran two bolt caps for the first year. NO good. The surfaces of both pieces were polished smooth from moving around. I then installed the cross bolt caps on the 428 block and now it stays put. Cheap insurance. The only reason I lost the first motor was the crank came out in 5 pieces . Darn 35 yr old cast pieces!

Larry

 

Did you run the ARP bolts or studs?

 

also with the upside down headers you clould also locate the turbos like behind he head lights in front of the wheel well, to the side of the radiator.

this is in a car but gives an idea of where you could locate the turbos

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/twin_tubs.htm