Goodday enthusiasts!

I have a 1979 F250 with a 460 and it's original from california. It has the factory Holley 4180 on it. When i got it last year i brought it to a specialist who replaced the fuel pump as it was toast and after that it kept spitting out fuel on idle. after some searching and tuning they got it right and the car ran again. Over winter the car didn't drive a lot so when the good weather came in, i started driving it again. Drove it a couple of times untill a radiator problem. Upon fixing the radiator, we were starting the car to let the coolant warm up. When starting i noticed it started spraying fuel from the fuel pump. Went back to the specialist for warranty and got it replaced again. There was a hole in the diaphragm of the fuelpump. So issue solved i would say. When driving a little through town yesterday, is began smelling fuel.... lots of it, the smell was way worse than the normal old car no cat fuel smell. When opening the hood i saw there was a puddle of fuel on the intake and saw the fuel pouring there from the hose in the first picture. Under load there's no issue at all. only when idling it's spitting out fuel. Can someone point me in the right direction to fixing this? i was told these are breather hoses for the fuel bowls. The secondary fuel bowl breather hose is just melting the rubber and dripping down.

 

Sound like crud in the inlet valve to the carb bowl. Too high level at idle/goes lower with increased fuel consumption.

 

valves and seats have also been replaced last time when it was at the specialist. Could there be crud in it again? And how would it get there? There are filters inline in the fuel line.

 

Check the float level at idle

 

Could you maybe explain to me how to do this properly? I'm still very much learning these old cars.

 

Third paragraph ....
(1) 2005 H/W fuel layout

 

First before messing with gas have a fire extinguisher close by
Best to have it and not need than need and not have

I would replace the front & rear float bowl vent hoses with fuel rated hose.
It looks like they do not go to the canister so just put a bolt in the open end of the hoses to plug them off.
The bowls are still vented thru the 2 round tubes where the air goes down the carb.

Then do the carb float bowl adjustment.
I like to set it just below the opening so when you shake the truck / motor it just comes out.
Dave ----

 

Start with the float adjustments, most likely your new pump runs higher pressure and it's flooding.

Easy fix , and unless you have a problem in the carb don't worry about what the pressure is the adjustment will cure it.

 

Could you please show me a picture with the canister you mention? And what are the down sides to blocking the tubes off and letting it vent through the top tubes? If i vent them over there i suppose the fuel will drop directly in the top of the carb right? any downsides to that?

 

Before trying to set the float level I suggest you obtain a fuel pressure gauge kit from the local auto store.
It only takes a few minutes to set up the gauge. If there is over 6lbs of pressure you should add a fuel pressure regulator which is easy to install between the fuel pump and the carburetor. They are also available at the auto stores.
Do not be surprised if the pressure is 8-10 lbs when you start the engine. I have encountered this several times with new pumps. They are all from China with the wrong regulator springs.

 

I was thinking the same thing. The fuel pump is putting out too much pressure and overwhelming the needle. I even had it happen with an expensive Holley pump. 10+ psi (gauge maxes out at 10) when spec is 6-8 and it was shooting fuel out of the vents about 2 feet into the air. Couldn't adjust it out with the float level. I also had two stock pumps for a 300 that were bad out of the box. Some guys here have had good luck with the chinese sourced parts, but I sure haven't.

 

The canister(s) is the charcoal canister that traps fuel vapors from the carb and from the tank(s). Then when the motor is running the motor pulls the vapors in and burns them, it is all part of the smog control.
Before all this smog control there were no canister(s) or the bowl vents on the outside only the tubes that would spill gas down the carb if the needle / seat did not seal like it should.

As said this was the wat all carbs vented, into the carb. If the needle did not seat and stop the fuel flow it would go down the carb, flooding the motor and it would shut off.
No gas on the top of a hot motor to start a fire. When you popped off the air filter to figure out why the motor shut off when cranking you would see fuel coming out the bowl vent tubes and know why the motor shut off.

I had to replace a leaking fuel pump on a non-Ford v8 motor. New pump in place I started the motor to check for leaks and I felt something wet hitting me in the face when checking gauges, no windshield in the car.
As I started to look up my son yelled to shut if down, gas was being pushed out the vent tubes and the fan, high idle, was blowing it back to me in the car, no air filter on carb.
Because the car is a project it dose not get run much and thinking the needles got stuck I tapped the carb with a hammer and started it again, gas still came out the vent tubes.
Because I have seen posts of new motor driven pump putting out too much PSI I tested mine. I shut the motor off when the gauge hit 18 PSI and climbing.
A different brand of pump put out the right PSI and all is good now.
So you should also check your new pumps PSI too.
Dave ----

 

Pulled the carb today and checked the bowls. Rear one had some stuff in it. Cleaned all up and made a wet bowl float setup on both bowls. Now the truck runs better than before and no more leakage! Thanks for all the help!

 

Good to hear a cleaning and adjusting the floats, you did both sides right? Fixed it.
Dave ----