Hubs Locked??
not real formiliar with the locking hubs, but is it normal to have no wheel spin if the hubs are not engaged?
Regardless of whether the hubs are in auto or locked position, if the transfer case is in 2-HI you will only have power sent to rear axle.
When you engage 4wd that transfers power to front driveshaft, connected to front differential, when will then start spinning the front axles.
If hubs are disengaged, the axles will be spinning but they are not connected to the outer wheel hubs, therefore you are still in "2wd"
Are you sure you have the original auto hubs? They may have been replaced with an aftermarket hub, that they are either "locked" or "free-wheel"
Even if you do have the original auto hubs, if that system isn't working correctly you will need to get out and lock the hubs in to get 4wd.
On my 2011 when temps drop into the teens and colder below zero, the auto hubs don't like to work so I manually lock them in when the cold weather hits for the season.
Regardless of whether the hubs are in auto or locked position, if the transfer case is in 2-HI you will only have power sent to rear axle.
When you engage 4wd that transfers power to front driveshaft, connected to front differential, when will then start spinning the front axles.
If hubs are disengaged, the axles will be spinning but they are not connected to the outer wheel hubs, therefore you are still in "2wd"
Are you sure you have the original auto hubs? They may have been replaced with an aftermarket hub, that they are either "locked" or "free-wheel"
Even if you do have the original auto hubs, if that system isn't working correctly you will need to get out and lock the hubs in to get 4wd.
On my 2011 when temps drop into the teens and colder below zero, the auto hubs don't like to work so I manually lock them in when the cold weather hits for the season.
Thanks again Buddy!
What I think I understand from you is simply this… no matter what position you put the hub locks in, the four wheel drive does seem to operate when placed into 4 high via the switch on the dash. The dash light illuminates, traction is improved. The hubs do turn freely, do not seem physically bound or troublesome to turn.
The part I don’t really like about regarding what you describe is how quickly you gloss over the fact the hubs have never autolocked. You have always had to lock them by hand. That makes me wonder what might be going on with that and also makes me question about if some modification was done to the hubs before you purchased the truck. Or, maybe there has been something awry with the hubs for years. Sorry, but I have either had full time full wheel drive (1978 F-150 XLT), manual locking hubs (1990 F-150 XLT Lariat), or my current rig is a 2006 with the auto locking hubs which have given me no trouble thus far and are operating as intended and described in the manual.
Keep up in the loop on what you encounter and a potential resolution, would you?
Rand
Thanks again Buddy!
Put transfer case back in 2wd, regardless of where the hubs are located, you only get 2wd.
On older trucks like my '79 the hubs are "free-spin" or "locked." If the hubs are in free-spin mode it doesn't matter what position I have my transfer case in, I will only have 2wd due to the axles being disconnected from front wheel hubs.
When I put the hubs in "lock" on my '79 the axles are connected to the wheel hubs, but if the transfer case is in 2wd I only get 2wd. As soon as I pull the transfer case into 4wd, with hubs locked-in, I get power to the front and rear axles.
If I am understanding correctly, if you have your hubs rotated counter clockwise (auto mode) when you select 4wd in the cab, those hubs are locking on their own and working as intended. The auto hubs generally work okay, but sometimes they don't want to engage as they're supposed to so you are given the option to "lock" them in. That's what I need to do with my '11 when the temps get cold.
I personally think it is a better set up than say some of the 80s, 90s and early 00's chevy trucks that you have no hubs at all and are entirely dependent on the mechanism (could be vacuum or electrical) that locks in the front diff to send power to the wheels. The dodges from late 90's early 00's didn't have hubs either, they just kept the axles locked in at all times and rely on what position the transfer case is in for 4wd vs 2wd.
The Ford setup is better to me, since the front axles are disengaged leading to less wear and tear on front diff when you're not using the 4wd, unlike the Dodge setup, but I have the option to manually lock in the axles which the GM setup doesn't offer.
All that said, you can get aftermarket hubs from Warn, Milemarker and a few others for your rig that will give you the option of "free-spin" and "locked" like the older Ford pickups.
Put transfer case back in 2wd, regardless of where the hubs are located, you only get 2wd.
On older trucks like my '79 the hubs are "free-spin" or "locked." If the hubs are in free-spin mode it doesn't matter what position I have my transfer case in, I will only have 2wd due to the axles being disconnected from front wheel hubs.
When I put the hubs in "lock" on my '79 the axles are connected to the wheel hubs, but if the transfer case is in 2wd I only get 2wd. As soon as I pull the transfer case into 4wd, with hubs locked-in, I get power to the front and rear axles.
If I am understanding correctly, if you have your hubs rotated counter clockwise (auto mode) when you select 4wd in the cab, those hubs are locking on their own and working as intended. The auto hubs generally work okay, but sometimes they don't want to engage as they're supposed to so you are given the option to "lock" them in. That's what I need to do with my '11 when the temps get cold.
I personally think it is a better set up than say some of the 80s, 90s and early 00's chevy trucks that you have no hubs at all and are entirely dependent on the mechanism (could be vacuum or electrical) that locks in the front diff to send power to the wheels. The dodges from late 90's early 00's didn't have hubs either, they just kept the axles locked in at all times and rely on what position the transfer case is in for 4wd vs 2wd.
The Ford setup is better to me, since the front axles are disengaged leading to less wear and tear on front diff when you're not using the 4wd, unlike the Dodge setup, but I have the option to manually lock in the axles which the GM setup doesn't offer.
All that said, you can get aftermarket hubs from Warn, Milemarker and a few others for your rig that will give you the option of "free-spin" and "locked" like the older Ford pickups.
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You have the choice of "auto" (counter-clockwise) and "locked" (clockwise). In auto mode, the hubs will automatically engage when you select 4wd in the cab. When you put it back in 2wd the hubs automatically disengage. That's what auto means.
When you rotate the hub clockwise into "locked" position the axles are now locked to the hubs regardless of whether you are in 2wd or 4wd.
Based on what you're telling me, the auto hubs are working as they are supposed to. When you put it in 4wd they automatically lock and you are in 4wd therefore no wheel spin. Shift back/turn **** back to 2wd and the hubs *should* disengage allowing the front wheels to free-spin independent of the axles.
It is possible that even in "auto" position the hubs are still locked to the axle but as long as you keep the transfer case in 2wd you will only get 2wd.
If you want to know for certain that your front axles are complete disengaged from the wheel hubs up front, you would need to replace the original hubs with some aftermarket units that are either "free-spin" or "locked." If you do that, you will always need to get out and lock hubs in to engage 4wd.
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Don't expect the **** on the hub to automatically turn itself to the "locked" position. The **** will stay exactly where it is at in "auto" mode. The auto locking/unlocking is all internal, the **** itself will not rotate on its own.
You have the choice of "auto" (counter-clockwise) and "locked" (clockwise). In auto mode, the hubs will automatically engage when you select 4wd in the cab. When you put it back in 2wd the hubs automatically disengage. That's what auto means.
When you rotate the hub clockwise into "locked" position the axles are now locked to the hubs regardless of whether you are in 2wd or 4wd.
Based on what you're telling me, the auto hubs are working as they are supposed to. When you put it in 4wd they automatically lock and you are in 4wd therefore no wheel spin. Shift back/turn **** back to 2wd and the hubs *should* disengage allowing the front wheels to free-spin independent of the axles.
It is possible that even in "auto" position the hubs are still locked to the axle but as long as you keep the transfer case in 2wd you will only get 2wd.
If you want to know for certain that your front axles are complete disengaged from the wheel hubs up front, you would need to replace the original hubs with some aftermarket units that are either "free-spin" or "locked." If you do that, you will always need to get out and lock hubs in to engage 4wd.
In 'Auto,' when you are in 2WD, the hubs function like the old 'lock and free' hubs and disconnect from the axle shafts. When you select 4WD, vacuum is applied to the hub and engages the internals of the hub, connecting them to the axle shafts. You won't see any change externally, i.e. the hub will stay in 'auto.'










