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Complete battery cable replacement

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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 09:49 PM
  #61  
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pretty sure, that a 10 ton press will cause all of the copper strands to merge into one strand
 
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 10:17 PM
  #62  
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From: Middle Georgia
Originally Posted by John in OkieLand
I used to use one of those small anvils with a Vee shape and a 5 lb hammer.

decided to go Pro and bought this

Hydraulic crimper
That's pretty similar to the HF version that I bought. I haven't cut apart a terminal after crimp to check for strand fusing, but I've been very happy with the results. Typically finish it off with a little bit of adhesive lined heat shrink.

My only complaint is the die sizing. They're all labeled in metric, not AWG, but you can get pretty close with a conversion chart. I've found it best to start with a size larger than it says and then finish up with the recomended size. If I don;t it'll have "wings" where the extra has pinched between the flat part of the two dies. I think it's more an issue with terminal to wire missmatch (even though sold as same size) than an issue with the crimping die sizes. Even with that small complaint, it makes great crimps.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 10:52 PM
  #63  
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John

A 10 ton crimper will absolutely do the job, and easier too. The manual crimpers are a pita especially in tight quarters and cables in the 2/0 and up range.

​​​​we looked at USA made hydraulic crimpers: Burndy, T&B etc, they were stupid expensive, and you had to get different dies for the type of connector you were using, straight lug vs flare lugs.
Josht, no crimper should be labeled mm, well not the US anyway. AWG or SAE.

Aviation and US Navy have some weird standards, and the connectors are expensive
​​​​​





​​​​
​​​​​
 
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Old Feb 14, 2025 | 02:46 PM
  #64  
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I did mine last year. Made all of my own cables, hydraulic crimper, (2/0) welding cable for the battery positives,, crossover, and negatives. Also replaced engine to chassis grounds. And put in the Power Master 9051.

I saw a few posts debating the use of welding cable……here’s the thing: use closed lugs, not open ( OEM Ford lugs are open) and use a good quality marine heat shrink with glue in the sleeves👍

You're not going to find better. Been working with this cable for decades (35 year Boilermaker Welder) and a couple years left to go to retirement 😉
 
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Old Feb 14, 2025 | 05:29 PM
  #65  
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Excellent article on making battery cables, tools and connectors

https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
 
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Old Feb 14, 2025 | 06:29 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by MDHunter
Josht, no crimper should be labeled mm, well not the US anyway. AWG or SAE.

Aviation and US Navy have some weird standards, and the connectors are expensive
​​​​​
Don't disagree, but I'm talking about a cheap chinese import. Looks like the HFs have AWG labeling now according to that site above, and I don't disagree with it's statements about die sizing.. I think mine is an older one that still had the MM markings, or maybe they are bad AWG and I mostly ignore the markings. Haven't needed to use it enough that I remember for certain.

I will admit that I'm not using these to make a living, or using them much at all for that matter, and my opinion would probably be different if I were. Most of the offerings on the likes of Amazon which are priced approprately for the average at home DIY hobbiest, is going to have the exact same issue. I'm not going to spend $150, $250, or more for "properly sized" crimpers, when these $50 ones will do the job perfectly well for my needs. If I found something similar (hydraulic crimper) that had properly sized dies for less than $100, I'd definitely consider buying it and ditching the HF set.

FWIW the aviation maintenance industry is where I made my money for the last 20 years. The stuff I work on in my time with my personal tools is not aviation related. That is to say, I'm not going to take my $50 cable crimpers and start putting ends on aircraft cables. I'll use the high dollar crimpers provided by my employeer for that, or that's what I would have done. I'm in management now, so I'll order the cable, terminals, and crimpers then give them to someone else do the installing.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2025 | 06:51 PM
  #67  
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Had to wait until after work today to get to my pictures:


Above: On the Left: my cable with closed lug
On the Right: Ford OEM cable with
open lug and badly corroded

Full view of my cables with insulation to protect from exhaust manifold heat
Above:
Full view of my starter cables with
insulation to protect from exhaust
manifold heat

Ends of my cables I made for starter and solenoid
Above:
Ends of my cables I made for starter and
solenoid

My cables attached to battery terminals
Above:
My cables attached to battery terminals

 

Last edited by Big Horn 2; Feb 14, 2025 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2025 | 07:18 PM
  #68  
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I know when I replaced the cables on my 250 and my son's 350, the cables were badly corroded 3-5 inches under the insulation, Ford's suppler did a bad job of sealing them up.

Fully agree with closed end connectors, and double glue lined heat shrink.
I'm a huge fan of the FTZ power lugs, heavy solid copper then plated to resist corrosion, little more expensive, but what's $1-$2 more for a lug that may outlast the truck.
​​​​
Most of my crimpers came from the Aircraft repiir side, so mostly Burndy, AMP and Thomas and Betts (T&B,) my smaller connectors are all T&B. For a few cents more you get serious quality connectors, think NASA/ MilSpec


 
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