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Old Nov 17, 2024 | 05:34 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
I would go top center. Pull the reservoir off and flush right down the front. That how the oil that doesn't go through the rails gets back to the pan. Anything that may be hanging out can get washed down too. The rails is a good idea. You'll want to clear them with compressed air after but otherwise thumbs up from here.
Well back to the 2 dollar lady of the night I do have to commend you on that comment, I enjoyed that so much!!!

Back to the work at hand, can I back flush the oil filter housing thru the oil cooler to the LPOP? Ive replaced the oil cooler a few years ago and don't necessarily want to pull that off to flush.
Do you like the idea of running the HPOP screen and do I need the extension housing like I mentioned?

Thanks for all your knowledge!
 
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Old Nov 17, 2024 | 08:41 PM
  #92  
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udsuth78
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From: Ponca City, OK
Originally Posted by Matt_fury
Well back to the 2 dollar lady of the night I do have to commend you on that comment, I enjoyed that so much!!!

Back to the work at hand, can I back flush the oil filter housing thru the oil cooler to the LPOP? Ive replaced the oil cooler a few years ago and don't necessarily want to pull that off to flush.
Do you like the idea of running the HPOP screen and do I need the extension housing like I mentioned?

Thanks for all your knowledge!
Yeah the $2 extra special friend is a classic. Takes me all the way back to high school.

It might be possible to back flush from the filter housing but it won't be straight forward because of the pressure regulator and filter bypass. Why not just pull the filter and forward flush. Just put your bucket under the filter head cram the hose into the pump discharge in the front cover.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 11:27 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
Yeah the $2 extra special friend is a classic. Takes me all the way back to high school.

It might be possible to back flush from the filter housing but it won't be straight forward because of the pressure regulator and filter bypass. Why not just pull the filter and forward flush. Just put your bucket under the filter head cram the hose into the pump discharge in the front cover.
Any thoughts on the HPOP screen and then needing an extension housing?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 11:37 AM
  #94  
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I really only have experience with the E99 which doesn't have the screen, but I haven't had the problems you've run into with the metal fakes either. So it's hard for me say one would be better than another. The only observation I can really make is that for one reason or another Ford engineers decided it was worth adding. Now that I'm thinking about it, I want to say it's possible to modify the earlier covers to accept the screened gasket. I think it's just a short little bridge that has to be ground out so the gasket can sit in place properly. I don't know for sure but it might be worth exploring.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 04:22 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
I really only have experience with the E99 which doesn't have the screen, but I haven't had the problems you've run into with the metal fakes either. So it's hard for me say one would be better than another. The only observation I can really make is that for one reason or another Ford engineers decided it was worth adding. Now that I'm thinking about it, I want to say it's possible to modify the earlier covers to accept the screened gasket. I think it's just a short little bridge that has to be ground out so the gasket can sit in place properly. I don't know for sure but it might be worth exploring.

I was thinking it would be a simple modification, and I will look into it for us. And yeah this is unfiltered oil going to the HPOP through the "short circuit device" which I assume is start up before system makes full pressure and then it closes. So potentially unfiltered until engine start. I have the ability to add a simple screen as a factory option so I will do that.
Looking for reasonably priced options for pumping diesel thru ports of my choice.
​​​​Spoke to DieselSite about my pump in pieces and they take it as long as the housing and shaft are in good shape. Doesn't need to be together but I may have buggered up my shaft a little bit but I have another pump that ripped threads out of a few years ago they I can send in. They install a stainless insert in place of the aluminum ORB6 port. I guess because it stands up better to our good and tight torque method....guilty and learned my lesson on that one.

 
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Old Nov 18, 2024 | 06:03 PM
  #96  
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Any cheap fuel pump you can find or happen to have laying around would work. If it's a submersible just make sure it's got a clean filter sock on it. If it's an in line slap a filter on it so you don't trash up the pump and run it. Should be able to find something on Amazon in the $20 range.

The short circuit valve is just a ball and a spring held in place by a cap on the very front top left side of the engine block right next to the hpop reservoir. Nothing shut it off so to speak. That's not to say the engineers aren't taking advantage of some law of physics that diverts the oil once the system is up to pressure. I just don't know for sure.

Don't beat yourself up on stripping the threads on a pump. I've always been extremely careful about not over tightening and I've stripped a pump myself.
 
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