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I've only ever seen or heard of 1 IPR valve getting stuck closed, and that was when I put one back together with the needle turned around the wrong way. That still took the connector being plugged in to stick the thing. I'm not a fan of impossible though so I'll only say I would be extremely surprised to find out you've got 2 of them. One of which is brand new so probably even less likely. It's easy enough to find out though. I'll link a couple videos that show how to tear them down for cleaning, Oh that reminds me, most people just load their videos to youtube then just link them here, usually because of the file restrictions for loading them direct.
I've only ever seen or heard of 1 IPR valve getting stuck closed, and that was when I put one back together with the needle turned around the wrong way. That still took the connector being plugged in to stick the thing. I'm not a fan of impossible though so I'll only say I would be extremely surprised to find out you've got 2 of them. One of which is brand new so probably even less likely. It's easy enough to find out though. I'll link a couple videos that show how to tear them down for cleaning, Oh that reminds me, most people just load their videos to youtube then just link them here, usually because of the file restrictions for loading them direct.
I've only ever seen or heard of 1 IPR valve getting stuck closed, and that was when I put one back together with the needle turned around the wrong way. That still took the connector being plugged in to stick the thing. I'm not a fan of impossible though so I'll only say I would be extremely surprised to find out you've got 2 of them. One of which is brand new so probably even less likely. It's easy enough to find out though. I'll link a couple videos that show how to tear them down for cleaning, Oh that reminds me, most people just load their videos to youtube then just link them here, usually because of the file restrictions for loading them direct.
I currently have 3 IPRs.
My original when I bought the truck (Because I don't throw anything away!)
The one that started this whole problem. This is a part store variant that's been in there since 2019. I have been swapping this one back and forth with the New Motorcraft one. Both of these I have taken apart to clean and check. Seems like this one works the best of the junk I have.
Need to get an email out to see if I can swap this part out.
The fact I'm hung up on is that it doesn't matter which IPR is installed. They all have the pump operating on the high pressure relief valve. That tells me it's likely got nothing to do with the IPR. It could be as simple as tighter tolerances on the new Motorcraft part allowing the the engine to run unplugged. Where the other naturally leaks by, be it from age or aftermarket.
The fact I'm hung up on is that it doesn't matter which IPR is installed. They all have the pump operating on the high pressure relief valve. That tells me it's likely got nothing to do with the IPR. It could be as simple as tighter tolerances on the new Motorcraft part allowing the the engine to run unplugged. Where the other naturally leaks by, be it from age or aftermarket.
My old original IPR I removed all the guts and the threaded portion and installed as just a block off plug and it wouldn't build pressure and wouldn't start.
Call the IPRs 1, 2 and 3
1 = Original from truck purchase in 2019
2 = Used one installed in 2019 and stopped working and caused all this issue.
3 = New Motorcraft
Turned IPR1 into block off. Disassembled IPR2 and cleaned but after truck warms it goes to high pressure. IPR3 runs without wire attached and stuck closed.
I think my oil not being rated and then this new IPR sticking was my issue.
Reached out to where I purchased it from and seems like a warranty job.
My old original IPR I removed all the guts and the threaded portion andy installed as just a block off plug and it wouldn't build pressure and wouldn't start.
I'm a little unclear on this bit. Does the modified IPR still have the tip the goes in the pump or is everything past the threads removed? If the circled part is not there then anything that gets to the IPR valve is dumping back to the front cover and down to the oil pan.
I'm a little unclear on this bit. Does the modified IPR still have the tip the goes in the pump or is everything past the threads removed? If the circled part is not there then anything that gets to the IPR valve is dumping back to the front cover and down to the oil pan.
Exactly. I removed that whole portion to test to see if there was blockage past the IPR. Or at least that was my thought
The fact I'm hung up on is that it doesn't matter which IPR is installed. They all have the pump operating on the high pressure relief valve. That tells me it's likely got nothing to do with the IPR. It could be as simple as tighter tolerances on the new Motorcraft part allowing the the engine to run unplugged. Where the other naturally leaks by, be it from age or aftermarket.
Thats a good point.
Originally Posted by Matt_fury
Correct, only the new one runs unplugged. I can start without it plugged in and it cranks longer but then does start and immediately jumps to 3kpsi
If I’m understanding the timeline correctly then I’m still stuck on the possibility that
-new IPR #3 fixed it for a while
-IPR #3 became physically stuck
-wiring was removed, modified, reinstalled
-now IPR #2 goes nuts once warm
This makes me wonder if the EBPV connector got swapped during the harness repair as udsuth mentioned. Or some other connector/sensor is causing the issue.
I would double check the EBPV & IPR wires and then disconnect other sensors 1 by 1 to see if it makes any difference.
udsuth’s point is still valid about all of them hitting the bypass.
I don’t typically support a multiple issue coincidence fault but I’m leaning that way right now.
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