Been quite a few days. Any progress on your pump mystery?

 

Sorry I haven't responded sooner, my app notifications turned off and then I may have lost motivation between work and travel, but here we are

Pulled everything the rest of the way apart and decided I really wanted to know where the metal both ferrous and non-ferrous metal came from. Fuel filter housing out, HPOP, radiator, fan, fan clutch, harmonic balancer and LPOP.
So I found scoring on the timing cover from the LPOP. No major pieces went thru the LPOP as I don't see any impressions on the teeth but the cover is chewed up a bit. Those aluminium pieces seemed to have clogged my HPOP to IPR passage. I started pulling apart my HPOP to see if I could see any wear but I'm stuck at the damn rear swash plate and if I want it out I may have to make a special insert to pull with....
What am I thinking, I don't have the ability to pull the pan first off in my current living situation but I am going to add a magnetic drain plug to collect steels and ferrous metal. Maybe magnet on the side of the pan but I'm not sure about that one as I won't be able to extract what I collect. New LPOP with the bronze repair plate. Adrenaline HPOP is what I'm looking at to go with my injectors I have that I hope are not hurt. My truck does not have the HPOP reservoir screen so I would like to add that. I see I can purchase the reservoir extension that adds the screen. At least it will sop larger from debris from getting into the HPOP and thus injectors.

So this is where I'm thinking about going and would love to hear feedback whether it's good bad or indifferent.

Thanks everyone!

 

Have you gotten the shaft and front bearing out of the hpop yet?

 

Yeah, I pulled the seal, c clip shaft and bearing out. Just by bearing puller for the rear just slips thru. I have a new smaller slide hammer I haven't tried yet. I had to purchase a small slide hammer because the harmonic balancer washer was rusted and stuck. I would have never thought I needed a slide hammer for that.

 

All you need is a bolt, 2 washers, and a nut. Put the bolt in place of the shaft washers on either end and snug it down with a nut. Then you can press it all out the back. A hammer and drift will work if your careful.

Edit: Oh yeah, be sure to pay attention to how things are oriented inside the housing.. you might even mark it somehow so you know when it comes time to go back together.

 

Thanks!
It won't be going back together, I trashed the rear bearing/guide trying to pull it out. But I'll try this version.
So from the front, I'll pop it the washer on the bronze piece that holds the pistons? I thought from the front there is a section that is part of the main body.
Just need some clarification.

 

It should all slide out as a cartridge, well as long as your not on the bearing journal. A few taps with a hammer should start it moving some. If it doesn't then pause and find out why. It should be a tight fit but not like pressing ball joints tight.

 

I'll give that a shot tonight.

 

Well pump is all apart but no definitive evidence one way or another. I found some brass shavings but can't say they are or are not from me.









Going to assume I had LPOP wear. I can catch the ridges with my finger nail. And looking back at my debris inside my IPR passage, it all looks aluminum. I didn't take any pictures of my timing cover but if the steel has ridges, you could get an idea of what my timing cover looks like.

 

It's pretty normal for the covers to wear at the pump. I had 1 with deep gouges from something going for a ride, but never seen metal plug up an IPR before.

 

Ok Udsuth78, what do you think about the plan I have from post 77? Please shoot holes in it if it isn't worthy.

 

All of this sounds ok to me, except the front cover repair plate. That's mostly because I'm a cheaper than a $2 hooker at happy hour. Unless it's got some deep gouges in it then I'd leave it be. Even then I just repaired the one I had like that with aluminum brazing rod and torch. Of course it wasn't bolted on the engine when I did that so.?. All the same if it's just some lite scoring less than .020-.025 deep I wouldn't worry about it at all. Yeah pump efficiency will be down a little but I'd guess half the oil the pump moves just gets filtered and dumped right back in the pan, so there's some wiggle room.

If you're worried about residual metal dust in the pan you can probably get a good bit of it out by flushing the engine with diesel fuel. You can go right down the front cover with the fuel and just leave the pan drain plug out and catch what comes out in a bucket. If you wanted to get real fancy you could rig up a pump and filter to recirculate, plus put a little pressure behind it for a better flush.

 

I'll second what Udsuth said. Very sensible.

We have pics of the pump and that lends hope for the timing cover. Not so bad as to require the repair plate but pics would help. Catching a fingernail on any gouges is ok but much deeper...

 

Thinking about recirculating diesel thru the engine, where would you run it thru? Should I shoot it thru the rails on the head and back thru the inlet for the LPOP? Thinking a small electric pump in a bucket under the oil pan.

Scoring isn't as bad as I remembered.

 

I would go top center. Pull the reservoir off and flush right down the front. That how the oil that doesn't go through the rails gets back to the pan. Anything that may be hanging out can get washed down too. The rails is a good idea. You'll want to clear them with compressed air after but otherwise thumbs up from here.