I know with the 300 six the log intake & EXH manifolds do not flow.
I have the log intake and better flowing EFI EXH manifolds and think the power is good for what it is but I never drove my truck before the 4 year rebuild so maybe the EFI manifolds dont help?

On Kurts he has EFI manifolds also, but on the intake side he has a Offy v4 intake, an adapter to the v2 Sniper TB that is based on a Holley 2300 v2 like you have on the Mustang. I think with the better flowing intake side is where it is at.
I know guys in the 240 / 300 six performance area of this forum say the aftermarket manifold is where its at with EFI or headers.

My son keeps after me to install a Sniper, they make one that bolts on the log manifold and I know someone that is selling one he just removed as he went ported EFI. But setting up EFI with dual tanks gets to be a big PITA with supply and returns not to say pumps would be easy either.
As you know Kurt planed for this a long time ago.Removed the side 16 gallon tank for a 28 or 30 gallon rear tank and mounted a fuel module (pump & sender) but that set up the sender works backwards from out trucks so he had to swap senders, not easy from what he posted.
This then gave him a supply of 60 psi the sniper needed and a return.
For now I think I will stay with what I got

If I was building something and had to get a carb and had the money I would look into a Sniper system.
The return is the hardest part I like of the kit. But I think there is a kit that dose not need a return so that might be a way to go?

On the tires he said it was only on the tires a few months and it was rolled some when doing things.
He also said he pumped them up and over bumps to me felt like max psi but who knows. I think he just need to drive it and they will be ok.

Trans, he has the electronic over drive that in running an aftermarket controller and like the Sniper he is still learning what all each dose.
I did text him some question on how does the trans knows the speed and load.
Speed is a sensor on the output shaft and load the Sniper has a TPS that I guess also sending info back to the trans controller.
The shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th felt good and firm. If me and could get the shift from 1st to 2nd firm like the other it would be great.

He is learning 2 different systems, fuel and transmission, and everything being new is a lot to take in.
I also saw the AFR looked rich, 12 to 13 where they say 14.7 is where it is at, but still breaking in the motor it is best to leave it this way.
My truck runs between 14.7 to 15.5 sometimes 16. Idle I just made richer at 13 was 14, RPM came up some and need to lower it some as I get run on at times.

On the belt it did not shift when breaking in the motor. I dont know if even Kurt knows when it moved?
I just know when we went for the ride the ALT made noise at first start up like a loose belt and I really did not think much of it other than might have said "loose belt" forgetting he has the serp belt system. I know on the ride the RPM got up there as he floored it and it kicked down a gear or it sounded like it was high so maybe that is where it moved?
Just know when we got back and before shut off Kurt said "what is that noise" and again thought "belt noise".
It was not till looking that he saw the belt as I did not pick it up right away.
After the new belt was on and running that I was really looking it over and seen the belt on the tension pulley looked like it was off the back side a bit as I did not see the pulley edge. Other wise all looked good and all he can do is keep an eye on it after the shimming of the tensioner.

Just little bugs that need to be worked out and fine tuning and it will be a vary sweet running truck.
He knows if he needs a hand to just let me know as I am free most of the time.
Dave ----

ps we took my truck for the belt and Kurt did not break off the door handle

 

This is my story and I’m sticking to it.
we were going so fast the belt was blown off of they pulley.
😂

while I agree with Dave that the tensioner needs to be move forward so that the belt rides more in the center of the face, it’s not any easy thing to do. It can and will be done, just not easy/ quick enough for right now.
what I’m going to try first is to move the alternator forward. Reasons are;

the two longest c/c lengths of free belt are between the alt - A/C and alt - crank.
the tensioner is between the alt and crank
the belt when running is coming off of the crank not into the crank.

these things help me believe that any “out of alignment” that I create will have minimal negative effect.

as always, fingers crossed!

 

So Kurt it sounds like you can play with spacers until you find just the right distance out to keep it from chewing up the edge of the belt.

Fuzz, I know there is one system that doesn't require a return line, but I can't remember which it is either. I have notes on different EFI systems on this computer all over the place (not organized). I remember now, Kurt having a more modern 90's computer era drivetrain. I guess I forgot his trans would also have an electronic computer. I'm never going to live down that door handle

I haven't done anything on my car trailer in two months, it was ready for welding, but Wayne said "too dang hot" plus he preferred to do it late in the evening so that the sun is not washing out his helmet view from behind. It has gotten cooler recently, but for me I usually nap in the evening before I go on shift at 11pm so the timeframe is not working out. Plus I kind of feel guilt about pushing Wayne, who is 70, to do all this hard labor-intensive sweaty work for me.

So I decided to do it myself. I don't have a lot of confidence in my own welding, passable but not great or even good, and on top of that, not too sure my little 110v wire feed can do a satisfactory weld on 1/4 thick steel, but what the hell let's give it a try.

Hit it with the edge of the grinder to make a sorta 45 degree edge into the crack.


I had to weld, grind, and then go back a second time to get any spots I missed.



The inside of the crack looks bad too, but I can't get the grinder any further than an inch-and-a-half or so.


I always heard that you should drill a hole at the end of a crack to stop it from spreading, so I did that here, and then used a dremel with a carbide tip to clean up the crack. It's not as deep as the outside was but at least it's a little something for it to bite too.



I raised and lowered the trailer, putting pressure on it both upwards and downwards, and I walked on it, still holding fine. So the last bit of extra support was to put a gusset over it for extra strength. I'll clean this up and finish welding tomorrow, it was getting towards the end of the day and I was ready to go eat dinner.

 

Cracker - I have some pictures but ill have to post them later. I did record a video and have it time marked for when the show started. Welding is a skillset I am trying to learn this Fall/Winter from a coworker who is nationally certified. I wont ever do it professionally for others but I have some projects that I need to be able to weld. Are you stretching your trailer or what is the plan with it? I also agree that the SNIPER EFI looks like a slick setup.


Fuzz - most of the GPS out there are fairly decent with updating these days. I use apple maps since I have an iPhone, but I have used Google and WAZE before with decent results. I also still look at road signs/conditions and check weather before any road trip so I try to be aware of what to expect. With my 01 Silverado and vw wagon I will take main highway roads. I haven't ventured too far in the F100 yet or my Beetle but I would like to stretch their legs some more too.

 

Kurt made his belt / bracket setup so nothing is like the factory.
When we went to install the new belt we did not look or note how the old one went and had a moment.
Had to sit down in the shade and draw it out so we could get it back on.
With the motor in the truck and the way Kurt package it it is tight so will take time to pull everything for re-shimming.

EFI I also could not remember who makes the re-turnless system but have heard of it.
Maybe the next project

On the welding I would clean the area to be welded out farther. I would go like 3 inches on either side so it will not get into the weld.
It also looks like you are using flux core wire, no gas. If gas it dose not look like it was turned on or flow was to low.
I also know gas welding out side with any kind of wind you will never get good welds.

If I was doing that thick metal I crank the amps up to max and adjust the wire speed.
You just have to watch the duty cly. when cranked up as it goes down pretty fast.
You also want to use a larger wire than used for sheet metal.
On the drag car I welded the center to the tubes as they are pressed in and 2 little pug welds from the factory and they have been times the tubes twist in the housing. You are talking some thick cast for the center on a rear axle.
I also welded braces front & rear on the spring mounts to the tube as I have seen them fold up on take off from the start line.
Again cranked up the amps and went to town.
Other wise it look good.

Twisted, John bought a used flat bed trailer to move thing but also his drag Mustang.
When I say used it was well used and over loaded thing more then once.
The wood was bad so that had to come up first. Then he could try and bend the bed back straight and the axle from the over load.
And as you can see he found cracks that need to be fixed. He will add bracing to keep the bed from bending as it has gotten a little weak in spots.

I like Google Maps for the most part and you can set it up to not take high ways, tolls and some other things and should of been what our leader of the group should have used as some dont like to drive high way speeds or cant as it cant keep up above 50 MPH.
If I am going out of state I will use my Trucker Rand McNaily GPS as it has a setting for cars. It givesme more information and way before I needed it because you are in a truck and need the info sooner. It will also show you what lanes to be in for the up coming turn or exit.

When I get the time I will check out the video
Dave -----

 

Well crap, moving the alternator forward didn’t turn out so well. Took out all of the shims, +/- 3/16” and cranked it a few rotations with the coil disconnected to make sure everything was seated properly.
Looked better, enough for a true start and idle. Fired it up and there was a chirping noise that I didn’t like at all. Shut it down immediately so didn’t get a chance to figure out which accessory was not happy. Doesn’t matter as it’s not going to stay this way. Going to put 1/8” back into the shim space and then rework the bracket that holds the tensioner so I can move that pulley back 1/4” or so.
not looking forward to this phase.

 

Hey Twisted, I started to watch but saw it was 27 minutes, so I will come back and watch later in the day when I have more time
All I am doing here is trying to repair a crack I found in this used & abused trailer that I paid way too much for.

This is how the area looked when I first saw the crack. Too bad I didn't see it initially & walk away from the purchase!


You really get a good idea of the crack here.


Fuzz, it is flux core wire. Flux core definitely makes an ugly weld! The duty cycle on my will welder will have it cutting in & out if you go too long. I use the highest setting (all I know is "4") for anything thick like a bolt, or in this case 1/4 inch steel. Generally speaking I keep the speed just where the wire can keep up with the fire, if it is too slow it pops and if it is too fast it puddle up quick. As for the wire size, I think my only choices are 0.030 and 0.035 which I normally buy the 35 and I think thats what is in there now.

Kurt it sounds like you got a tedious PITA task on your plate today

 

Well looking at those cracks I would more than like do large pieces of metal, like 3' pieces and sandwich the cracked/old frame in between. Also raise and lower it so it is level. then drill some holes in the plate and plug weld it and then weld the entire edge. I have always heard the best weld require lots of prep-work. and you can smooth it all out clean everything and then use weld-thru primer to avoid any rusting in between. I do agree if you had seen that crack you possibly would have avoided the purchase all together.

As far as the video the show part starts around the 10:30min mark and lasts roughly 13-14 minutes as i walk through and look at everything. There was a cool OBS F250. Definitely something I would love to add to the fleet or a F350 dually.

 

Well Kurt that is not good
Just more work on your part that suc*s.

John, I guess your welder has a little less out put than mine or the gas works better?
I never had mine cutout but then I knew not to push it.

Well my Toro weed wackers are to old at 14 and cant get parts for them.
Toro weed eater div. was bought by Homelite and they stop making parts.
Toro name had a battery eater but I dont want to go battery.
Any of the gas type Homelite that take different attachments like mine, I have 4 different ones, has a square end and mine is round

They gave me a primer bulb and I may try that on the one I was using 2 weeks ago as it split open and that can make it so not gas gets to the carb.
Going to see if I cant come up with 1 more and fuel line as the 2nd unit primer is hard like a rock and the in tank filter / pick up broke off the end of the fuel line. So it look like I may have to give up my attachments and get a weed wacker.
For the hedge trimmer I have electric ones that work pretty good but I have to pull the generator and cored around behind the tractor.
I just need to make / weld up a better bracket to fit the 3 point hitch and the handle of the generator for pulling.
Yard work is never done!
Dave ----

 

Twisted, I have done all that prep you mention. I actually got 2 pieces of 2x3 rectangle tubing to strengthen each side.

Early pic from when I was just testing it in place.

I had to do a lot of straightening to get it right, it's ready now to be burned in. I drilled 8 holes on each side to plug weld it. Then I want the edges stitch welded all the way down.

I watched your video and left you a comment. How many gallons of windshield wiper fluid do you keep in your garage
I liked the 300Z with all the 80's electronics on display. Seeing the early 80's BMX 3-series brought back some memories of when I was in Germany, lots of guys had those. Meanwhile I was tooling around in a 1979 Audi 100 L5E that I bought for $125
Some nice Foxbody's there my 85 would be the only thing I own that would qualify for that show, but there's no way I would drive it that far.

Fuzz my welder only reaches it's duty cycle limit if I am on 4 and cranking for 10 seconds or more straight. It will start to pop and miss and act like it's running out of wire or as if I am hitting a spot where there's not a good connection, but if I back off and give it a few seconds it works fine again. I don't usually burn for more than 3 or 4 seconds at a time anyway so it is something I have rarely encountered. Nonetheless, it is a 20 year old welder and was an el-cheapo from JcWhitney long before Harbor Freight was a thing.

 

Crack,
Yeah definitely sounds like you are on the right track with the trailer. Seems like a project for sure.
Thanks for watching my video. So its not washer fluid, it is the winterizing fluid for Campers/RVs. I used to have a camper and when i sold it I forgot to give them to the buyer. So i just use them as weights until i can find someone to give them to.
I recently picked up an 86 e28 (BMW 5-series) and will be working on it this winter to turn into a fun daily. Id love to see that Audi, I am sure it fun, is it a 4 or 5 cylinder?
These were the last generations of good looking cars, with character and fairly easy enough to work on.

-Chris
​​​​​​

 

Sorry, but I don't have any pics of it. Was in the days before having a camera available at all times. It was a 5 cylinder, 4-door hatchback. Had the mechanical fuel injection, I guess that is how to describe it. Had a high pressure fuel "canister" with 5 outlet tubes, one for each cylinder, and inside the canister would spin and the opening would align for 1 of those tubes at a time, in tune with when it needed fuel. Primitive early fuel injection, but I have to say that 5 cylinder for only being 2.3 liters was very peppy. The car itself, the reason I got it so cheap was because of how rusted it was. It won't pass inspection over there if rust is a major factor, so the car ends up being junked. We soldiers knew all the tricks, sheet metal with JB weld, sprayed with undercoating so it looks legit, etc. I did a combination of easy fixes and hiding rust and got it through inspection the first year, but then I had a failure on the front crossmember thing-a-ma-bob. The engine & trans & drivetrain are all mounted as one and bolt up to the car from underneath with 4 large bolts, and the rearmost 2 rusted completely through so the whole assembly would rock back & forth depending on throttle or brake. I paid a man at the autocraft shop to weld it up, he fabricated pieces all the way around both sides to secure it firmly. He told me it was his proudest achievement. Then I brought it to inspection the next year and the man there was so angry, he made come under the car with him and in broken English tapping with his screwdriver "this can never EVER pass inspection, and you must NOT drive it on the road anymore, do you understand?". According to what I gathered, the factory mount included a rubber isolator and with it now welded directly, it's going to cause metal fatigue and fail again. So I let that car go to the junkyard and bought a 77 Audi 100 2 door, I was able to transfer things like my new brakes over to it, along with the Porsche wheels & newish tires I had as well.


Generic pic from the internet, this is what a Audi 100 L5E looks like. In the US we called the 100 the 5000, but the 4-door hatchback is not one they sold over here. It wasn't very popular in Germany either, it is kind of an "ugly duckling". I guess it is for the people who couldn't decide between a sedan or station wagon.

 

That is very cool, I like the odd things for sure! Europe is much more thorough in their inspections and I know I've had stuff that wouldnt fly over there. Still very cool and I would drive one in a heartbeat!

 

I missed the car as soon as I got rid of it, such a cool weird thing. It had a manual sunroof, crank it one way to open it up, crank it the other way to tilt the back end up. No electronics to worry about!

More trailer stuff.
From yesterday -
Up front, the posts that hold this bar up are all straight except this one. It was worse before, but using Dave's BFH I got it quite a bit straighter. I was happy at the time because it was such an improvement, but now I want it even better.


All I succeeded in doing with a hammer this time was denting the angle iron inwards, so I thought why not give a come-along a try. As soon as I started cranking, the bumper started to flex, so I had to move my cable inwards to a thicker mounting part right where it goes to the frame.



Hard to tell in this pic, but the vertical angle iron is bulged out at this point, from where it squished outwards when it was bent. So with lots of pressure pulling on the come-along, I hit it here with a hammer to straighten it back up, knowing the pressure would keep it from deforming the other way and help pull it into place.


It looks straighter now.


Today - no pics, but I having been working on the front horizontal brace. I'm going to sister in another piece of angle iron to held straighten & strengthen it. I made some progress, forgot to take pics, but just sick of the heat. My thermometer says 95. I've been hogging the carport for the past 3 days forcing me & my wife to park in the yard in the direct sun. Plus I want to keep Friday open to get my Mustang ready for the car show on Saturday, so I want to be out by today. It's only 2:15pm but I'm already wiped out from the heat, soaked in sweat, and taking bayer back & body bills for my aching back like candy all week. The carport is filthy from metal shavings & rust so I just want to put everything away, pressure wash, and be done for now. Tackle it again next week.

 

Fuzz, I took the old F100 out today. The trailer was already hitched to it and I needed to bring it to a guy on the other side of Four Oaks, so why bother dropping it and hitching it to the red pickup, especially since it was only 10am and had not gotten hot out yet. Truck drove fine, all in about 45 minutes of driving. Going to the gas station, dropping trailer off, going for lunch, and then heading home. So I think you were right, maybe had some moisture under the cap still (although it was fine the whole day that I sprayed the engine), or maybe it was gas (my first stop was the gas station 2 miles away, I gotta put 15 bucks in it every time I pull out of the driveway). Whatever the "low of power in the middle throttle range" was, it's resolved itself.

I got the Mustang out and washed it, went for a drive. I'm ready for the 90-mile-each-way trip to Littleton tomorrow, I just hope the rain cooperates. I have wipers but they aren't very good, and the inside of the car steams up when it gets wet.