Jul, Aug, Sept. 2024 BS Threads
Thanks for the diagrams. I will check it out. As far as the list goes, I dont think its too wild. spread it out over a few weekends. It more than likely will be late Sept or mid-oct until i get to the headers and I have a local shop for the exhaust. Lighting is straightforward. a wash and polish is an all day task with the size of the truck but well worth the effort. It also helps with youtube content. But I have 3 vehicles that are ahead of the truck granted the truck is running and driving, I even drove it to work today. Currently im finishing up a few things on my 64 Beetle, then ill be jumping into my 97 VW Golf wagon for a few shows. I picked up an 86 BMW 535i that I need to do a tune up, and rebuild the shifter linkage. On to the F100 from there.
If yall want to check out my youtube here is the link: Pia's Projects
Here are the specs of the truck:
1973 F100
360 FE
Auto (not sure which trans, I havent researched it yet)
2wd.
Long bed.
Current list of plans:
Short-term: (1-3 months)
Tires and wheels
Headers and exhaust
lower the rear (for now)
wash, claybar, buff and polish
steering wheel swap
Identify the leak from the trans (and repair)
Update lighting
Long-term goals:
Intake, 4-barrel carb
Classic AC Install
Lower entire truck (eventually airride)
Replace tailgate with period correct tailgate
repair bed floor
find an old aluminum bed topper
This is the start and eventual plan. Here are some pictures that I shared on the 73-79 forum.
I got mine years ago from LMC for a different project and used it on my truck.
I dont care for LED head lights but it is not my truck. LED tail lights I can go for LOL.
I listed DJM for lowering beams and rear kits. With the twin beams when lowering by cutting springs or bags you cant get the camber back in spec and why the beams.
On the bed floor might find a bed the sides are trashed but floor good and graph it onto your bed.
Just check the rib spacing if they are the same as yours.
FYI I am using a style side long bed floor with the sides cut off and shorter to replace the wood floor for my flare side.
You have ambitious goals for the next 3 months! I would guess the transmission to be a C6, although I guess FMX is also a possibility. If you take a pic of the trans pan from underneath we can help identify it.
Fuzz
Hopefully a stuck valve-stem was your problem, I guess in a day or two you will be able to tell if it is going low again.
Everything has a funky oily coating, so you cannot even work on anything in the engine bay without getting filthy. So at the start I did spray purple power and hit it with the pressure washer, so that it would be a little cleaner. And the area around the crank opening, I did wipe it very well, because I couldn't believe my eyes, that there was no seal lip there. So it's not a good example of the before, however no pics. This is just the spot where the pressure couldn't get to because it was blocked by the alternator.
On a side note, remember all the time & effort I went through a year or so ago, flushing, backwards flushing, flushing again, etc, in order to clean all the rust out of my cooling system? I even replaced the radiator and water pump as well. So instead of beautiful green coolant as I had expected, I found this:
I also hope it was the valve but time will tell.
That coolant dose not look to good.
IIRC you put the evap o rust thru the system maybe you have ti do that again?
Thanks for the diagrams. I will check it out. As far as the list goes, I dont think its too wild. spread it out over a few weekends. It more than likely will be late Sept or mid-oct until i get to the headers and I have a local shop for the exhaust. Lighting is straightforward. a wash and polish is an all day task with the size of the truck but well worth the effort. It also helps with youtube content. But I have 3 vehicles that are ahead of the truck granted the truck is running and driving, I even drove it to work today. Currently im finishing up a few things on my 64 Beetle, then ill be jumping into my 97 VW Golf wagon for a few shows. I picked up an 86 BMW 535i that I need to do a tune up, and rebuild the shifter linkage. On to the F100 from there.
If yall want to check out my youtube here is the link: Pia's Projects
We have a club member that has a VW bug he brings to shows, cruise in's and cars & coffee.
Dave ----
Dave, I think I am going to give up on the dream of having a nice clean cooling system, and just rinse it clean every couple of years and replace the coolant. I just can't go through all that again, especially knowing it didn't fix the problem. Yes, I did evapo-rust. Twice! Before that I did autoparts store "flush". Then after the evapo rust, I flushed it with clean water. Then I backwards flushed it. Then I individually flushed the heater core, and then the engine block. Then I put on a new water pump and a new radiator. I think anyone could say I did my due diligence

As is usually the case with old cars, you start doing one thing and end up finding something else that needs attention. Very obvious in person, perhaps not as noticeable in the picture though, the drivers side motor mount is cracked. I kinda felt like that might be the case because I could feel the movement of the engine when I accelerate, especially in the gas pedal. Since it has a bar that attaches and not a cable, the movement is felt in your foot. Oh well I will get new engine mounts, but I will wait until I finish all this other mess before tackling it. Maybe I can do it at Andre's on the lift, since I am fairly sure it would just be a couple of hour job, and I wouldn't be putting his car outside for a week like what would have happened if I tried to do the harmonic balancer job over there.

I hear you on the cooling system flush.
After doing that to the Gremlin many times, 2 radiators and adding a fan shroud, car was never made for one.
I gave up on it as it would over heat in no time still.
I think the pick up AC is going low on charge again as it dose not seam to be blowing as cold as it was

I am going to give it 1 more look over and recharge and if it goes low again I farm it out as I dont know where it could be leaking from?
If it goes low then I can take it back and have them fix it again on their dime.
Dave ----
So I got a double roller timing set, and installed it - but the fuel pump eccentric doesn't poke all the way through! Checked the part number, turns out it is for 84-up SBF (during the EFI era when no mechanic fuel pump is needed). So I had to remove that and get another one, now I finally have a Cloyes double roller with fuel pump eccentric on the front.
So my Mustang work keeps ballooning into a bigger and bigger job. Now I've got the oil pan dropped, and to drop it I had to remove the cross brace underneath, and I had to drop the steering center link. To do that, I disconnected the idler arm, but when I pulled it down half of the rubber bushed stayed on the thing, so I had to order a new one of those. Every time I touch something, it's fiddy bucks!
I noticed 3 ball bears that came out of the oil pan but 2 made it into the drain hole before I could catch them.
I could not think of anything inside the engine that would have ball bearings, but then I remembered what happened and where they came from. about 20 years ago, When my Export Brace was new (this pic is from 2011, it was already 10 years old or more at that time) I had a hell of a time fitting it in. The opening was too narrow, they say over the years the shock towers start to lean inwards. The instructions said to jack the car up and let it sit for a few hours to "relax" but even after sitting all weekend, it still was about 1/2 inch off. So I got a scissor jack out of one of my cars, set it in there sideways (just like in this pic, the intake was off at the time) and jury-rigged a way to use the scissor jack to spread the shock towers apart. It worked and I got the export brace installed, but when I went to remove the scissor jack several ball bearers came out of it and went into the lifter valley. I hoped at the time that I managed to catch & remove them all, but obviously I didn't!

I was thinking if the fuel pump ever came apart big time maybe the ***** came from it, check valves like Holley carbs use for think power valve.
They also have a weight sometimes on the accel pump side.
Good thing they did not make it though the oil pick up screen as it could have gotten ugly jamming the oil pump.
You found the #1 reason to cover any opening on a motor. Be it a carb stuff rags in the intake or like your motor a towel over the whole top.
Had a VW motor that I lost a piston & cly. because of a washer. Thing is I never knew it went in but dont think any ports were covered at the time so

I hear you about the weather I was lazy yesterday and did not cut the grass and it needed it bad after the heat & rain this week it was pretty tall.
So I got out about 8am. Got a little wet from 1 shower that passed by.Got done what I wanted to so should be good till next week when the rain stops.
As long as the wind dose not blow the rain sideways would you stay somewhat dry under the car port?
I have been a slacker and not hit the gym in a week or so, so maybe with the rain I will go?
Dave ----
Oh man I hear you as I am not that young any more and I am sure not skinny 
When I was finishing up the trailer rewire I was real happy my son came out to hand me the last few things needed so I did not have to get out from under the trailer. Heck I was so spent he had to put the tools, tractor & trailer away.
I may take a ride to FV as there is a Toro dealer, my Toro weed wacker needs some love.
I hope they have or can get parts as I got it at Home Depot think 20 years ago.
I know with big box stores the name brand things like mowers, tractors, welders are not the same that you can buy at a name brand storeand they cant get parts for them.
I would hate to have to buy a new wacker as this one, I have 2, have different attachments like line trimmer, edger, hedge trimmer, blower, I would hate to give up.
Dave ----
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Andre messaged me yesterday to ask if I needed any help working on the car, I said the weather was kinda nasty and I was not out working on it, but would not mind having some company to just BS and take a coffee break. Well when he got here, the rain had stopped and I started getting motivated again, so we decided to hit it and at least get the oil pump replaced. I had a hard time with one bolt because the head is so close to the oil pump body that you can't get a socket on it. Luckily I was able to get an open end wrench in there, but I decided to go up to the hardware store and find a better bolt selection so that it won't be this difficult next time. I was hoping to find a small-head bolt, I know they made a 3/8 bolt with a 1/2 inch head but could not remember where I saw them. Ended up buying allen bolts instead, worked out great and was easy to tighten. Of course by the time we got home the rain started again but it only took 5 minutes to get it back in place. That was all I accomplished the whole day pretty much except for cleaning the oil pan. I think today will be worse and Thursday will be worse still, so I am not sure if I get much done at all! But I put the timing chain and timing cover on last night during my 30 minute lunch break so at least I did a little work.
Of the 2 units I have the one I have been using just stopped like it ran out of gas and when I went to restart it the push bulb started leaking.
I think if this leaks the fuel pump will not work as it should so need to replace it.
Think fuel lines might be leaking as everything is wet. Lost the air filter back about a moth or so.
Forget why the 2nd power unit stop working but figured I would get the same parts and maybe plugs as have never changed them.
The trimmer has a auto feed if you bump it on the ground.
Well it had worn away so you have to push it in by hand and turn then pull the wire out.
So want to see if I can get the parts to fix this if I can get the parts for the power units.
Or may need to get a new power unit but hope not.
You replaced the oil pump, the timing chain, motor mounts all because of a oil leak

I hate snow *****, they start off small and get way to big.
That is how my pick up started off, small and got way to big

Yea this weather is not good if you have to work outside but so far it has not been to bad like they said it could be.
Dave ----
Yes, my small job got bigger.. and bigger.. and bigger! I have everything basically ready to go back in, except for the steering idler arm which hasn't arrive yet (but would be one of the last things to install anyway). But it's not wrenching weather for sure.
Since I have nothing else to do, I'll post up pics of some old parts I prettied up. On the fan and pan, I hit both with oven cleaner and let it eat away most of the paint, then pressure washed them, sanded, and primed & painted. On the timing cover being aluminum I was not comfortable using oven cleaner, so I used a little steam cleaner that I recently purchased, then ran it through the dishwasher, hand sanded after that, masked it all off and painted it.
Shhhhh.. this'll just be a secret

I have not hit FV yet for parts. Lazy the other day and today was not good for heading out if you did not a have to and I had to today.
We have 5 foster kittens. 2 @ 3 months, 2 @ 6 months and 1 @ 8 months.
Well 1 of the 6 month had an appt. to get fixed and that was over in 4 oaks just down the street from O'Reilly's on 301.
Drop off at 7:30 and picked up 11:30 as they wanted to get out early because of the weather.
They told us at drop off a lot off people canceled and they would call us when we could pick up kitty.
That is why they got done so fast.
I did hit O'Reilly over by me on 50 for a full tune up parts for the Durango. It has a miss and this morning in the rain and not starting for a week or so it stalled just after start up then acted like it was not getting fuel!
In the past I have burned out 2 coils because the spark could not make it to the plugs, and it was also damp / raining.
I think with the dampness and rain today the same thing was happening?
I all most did not want to take it to drop off the kitten but once it got a little heat it ran with just the miss.
I hope it needs a tune up as I cant remember when it was done last but think it was before we moved down here in 2015 so I am sure it could use it.
I can tell you I dont really look forward to doing it as the engine bay is tight and the dist. is at the rear

Dave ----
I got the tune up done on the Durango before the shower came.
I dont know how the truck was still running

All the plugs were worn and the gaps at .055, they should of been .040
The cap contacts were covered in crust.
I did not ohm the plug wires just replaced them.
I did take a compression test.
Had 2 @ 110, 1 at 115, 2 @ 120, 2 @ 130 and last @ 135
Not great but with 290 on the clock and only 1 timing chain and a set of heads dont think all that bad.
Still feels like is has a little miss but going to live with it but at some point I think the wife it right and may need to look at replacing it.
I just hope I dont have to do a tune up on it while I own it as the dist. back under the fire wall is a PITA

I was soaked with sweat when done and took all my power away for anything else, like trip to FV for Toro parts but it will still be there.
Dave ----
I agree with you on the compression, not great but not bad enough to do anything other than shrug and say "oh well, as long as she keeps on runnin!"
I know Kurt had all those tall trees so I texted him to see if he had any trouble over there, he said nothing came down, the trees being close together kinda support each other in the wind.
I did not get much done today on the Mustang, as Tom needed me to load up the trailer and bring him out to Builders Discount Center in Goldsboro for some lumber. By the time we got home it was 4pm and I just had a little while to tinker before getting ready to cook some steaks for dinner.
I got a fancy aluminum alternator bracket setup, but when test-installing it to determine placement and see which spacers I would need, I realized this particular bracket is set up to have the alternator up high, which would be the case for some 80's era SBF engines that have a smog pump down low. The fitment chart said "1964-1994" but I don't think there was much to that, as even if I did want it up high the turnbuckle adjusting thingy would interfere with the water pump pulley, unless I was to change the mounting point for that as well (and all the comments from purchasers said things like "nice piece, but I had to modify it to fit" and "too bad this comes with no instructions" lol). In the end I gave up on that and ordered another one, which I verified this time will be a fit for the alternator to sit under the bracket. But it won't be here til Monday.
Now that it's midnight and I'm wide awake I am thinking I might tackle the oil pan install.
Remember I have the auto wheel movers if you think lifting the equipment on them to move would help.
I also have a folding engine hoist tucked back by the air compressor I can dig out if needed.
Did my weekly garbage run and the AC is not working as it should and I could hear the compressor cutting on & off

I added 2 cans of 134a so the compressor stays on as the RPM comes up but it still dose not feel like it is vary cold?
I was too hot and sweaty to look for leaks at this time but will at some point.
Going to load the truck up for Jordana's cruise in a bit and I will have it in the truck for Food Hall cruise tomorrow
Dave ----










