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My wife bought some double sided tape, I think it's called alien tape. The stuff has amazed me sticking things outdoors to wood posts on the deck, might want to check it out.
I bought some 3M double-sided tape that has some pretty tenacious adhesive and used it to adhere a small terminal strip to the kitchen wall. It hasn't budged in over two years. I have to check its temperature properties. Good idea, the double-sided tape!
Maximum Operating Temperature 149 ℃Celsius (300 deg F).
One comment I have is this looks like the exact same tape used to adhere the stove door facia in place, however my stove facia started to lift in one corner. I pulled it back a little further to discover this looked like the same "type" of tape used by Maytag from the factory. I cleaned both surfaces with 90% alcohol and added a new strip of tape. It didn't hoId. I then removed the tape in the area, sanded both surfaces and used JB Weld fast cure. It's been at least 6 months and it's holding pretty good despite frequent stove use. Maybe if I had used the same thorough sanding and cleaning preparation, the tape might have held?
Point being, the gauge pod must be serviceable and any type of adhesive like 3M 4200 or JB Weld would not be service friendly. The neodymium magnet idea would be very difficult to pull apart, and that's if the magnet base will adhere to the windshield with rear view mirror cement. Neither would be service friendly. The only idea I can think of is using the hook & loop supplied with the Autometer gauge pod or the 3M Tape 5952 with thorough cleaning of both mating surfaces.
I drilled holes and used automotive plastic push pins.
I pre painted the push pins the same color as the pillar pod, which I painted the same color as the original A pillar OEM trim piece.
The plastic push pins are removeable just like any other automotive trim piece mounted with push pins.
The heat trapped just inside of the windshield area will undermine any adhesive. Heat expands materials, and the differences in expansion and contraction rates between materials contributes to adhesive failure over time in the hot house under the glass.
The use of fold up or roll up solar shields inside the windshield, especially the aluminum reflective type, only exacerbates the problem more, as the heat reflecting off of the solar shield radiates within the space between the solar shield and the inside of the windshield, which extends from A pillar to A pillar.
That is why a mechanical pinned attachment is preferable... as each gauge itself adds weight to the pillar pod cover (or behind the rear view mirror cover), and this weight is constantly tearing away at heat softened adhesives, that expand and contract at different rates and temperatures than the base material of the gauge pod, laden with gauges, that the adhesive is trying to hold up.
I drilled holes and used automotive plastic push pins.
I pre painted the push pins the same color as the pillar pod, which I painted the same color as the original A pillar OEM trim piece.
The plastic push pins are removeable just like any other automotive trim piece mounted with push pins.
The heat trapped just inside of the windshield area will undermine any adhesive. Heat expands materials, and the differences in expansion and contraction rates between materials contributes to adhesive failure over time in the hot house under the glass.
The use of fold up or roll up solar shields inside the windshield, especially the aluminum reflective type, only exacerbates the problem more, as the heat reflecting off of the solar shield radiates within the space between the solar shield and the inside of the windshield, which extends from A pillar to A pillar.
That is why a mechanical pinned attachment is preferable... as each gauge itself adds weight to the pillar pod cover (or behind the rear view mirror cover), and this weight is constantly tearing away at heat softened adhesives, that expand and contract at different rates and temperatures than the base material of the gauge pod, laden with gauges, that the adhesive is trying to hold up.
Pin it.
Are you saying to drill holes in the windshield?
You’re talking about the A-pillar mount and I’m talking about the overhead pod mount.
Let's get back to gauges...
I'm guessing Autometer is the better of the brands offered. I see Isspro, Glowshift and Banks seem to be common, are they good or better to stay with Autometer?
Many years ago I bought a set of 3 ISSPRO EV2 because I too struggled with all of the choices. I had a faulty fuel pressure sensor and an EGT gauge that had a failed microprocessor. Both were replaced by ISSPRO, no questions asked.
As I understand it, AutoMeter Glowshift is not known for their reliability, but anything designed or built by humans can and will fail at any point. A good friend of mine has several AutoMeter Glowshift gauges in his Excursion and they have performed flawlessly for many years.
If I were going to do it over, I would reconfigure my FP, EGT and boost gauges. I would either get dual face (two needles) gauges or simply have EGT and FP in the F-650 lower dash piece. Since dialing in my truck, I no longer even glance at the gauges.
A screen like the Edge products offer was never on the table as I wanted to minimize the screens and gadgets as much as I could.
Reliability and quality seems to change every day no matter what company so it is all a guess and gamble any more. I have had Autometer gauges in my drag car that are 25 years old and are reliable but whether the new ones are is a guess.
I like simple needle style gauges, just seem to make more sense to me when I glance at a gauge. Sounds like Isspro has done well for you.
I looked at some of the gauge mounts and previous owner mounted the brake control box at the lower dash just below the little slot in the dash.
I’m not familiar with how the overhead gauges mount to the windshield so this may be of no help. Our EZpass transponder attaches to the windshield with some 3M heavy duty Velcro. It sticks very well and hasn’t come loose on any of our cars.
Ours came with the transponder but a search for “EZpass transponder Velcro” showed available from many places. This link is for Amazon. https://a.co/d/06BJTB9h
Eman, I’ve also had AutoMeter in the race car and truck for many years without issue. Wait, the sensor for the FP gauge did die but they sent me a new one even though it was out of warranty. In my opinion AutoMeter is a well known and respected company.
Glowshift is not known for quality, those are more geared for low cost. Some folks get along with them fine though. Personally I would purchase ISSPRO or AutoMeter.
Good thing about ISSPRO is the gauge color more closes matches the factory from what I’ve seen online.
My apologies... I was wrong earlier when writing about AutoMeter. It was Glowshift I was thinking of and that my friend has. I have corrected my previous post with a strike through.
Where and how did everyone route their gauge wires through the firewall?
If you have an automatic truck, you can use the popout/pass through for the manual trucks in the firewall. I have a manual truck, so I created my own path through the firewall.
Try re-configuring the new bundle of 16 AWG pass-throughs on the engine side of the firewall with a drip loop, so that water wicking down the harness and split convoluted loom cover can drop off the harness at a point lower than the entry hole through the fire wall.
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