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The lowest point is the lower radiator hose, since you are going to replace it you will get almost all out of the block. As far as 50/50 versus concentrate, cost is the difference. If you do concentrate make sure to use distilled water and nothing else.
Good info, thanks. I'm not really looking forward to whatever is remaining in that long hose spilling all over the place when it's removed. I think I'll cut a hole in the hose and drain it first, since the new SPE hose will likely be the last lower hose installed from that point onward anyhow...
I replaced the "cat back" portion of my exhaust with a 4" magnaflow system. On the 6.7 the very last exhaust sensor is measuring particulates/soot and with some miles on a truck will not be removable. So purchase one before hand if it is needed in your setup. Spur of the moment decision due to catching it on sale. I had to cut off about 10" from the straight piece to make it fit, and may cut off a bit more if the clearances need changing.
Just changed my oil at ~11k, below is a pic before the change. No heavy towing this round just a few hundred miles hauling my flat bed trailer so around 7-8k lbs for a few hundred miles, the rest was commuting doing 430 miles at a time, driving 80mph on the highway and 72 on the secondary roads and don't shut the truck off during the drive.
I reset my OLM at the last change at ~107K and the truck was telling me to change at 10K in, actually changed at 118,500. I've only let the OLM go a couple of times since the truck was new, used to change oil every 5k when using T6 and motorcraft filters. Every time the OLM warning has come up it has been right at 10K since the last reset. At this point I think the OLM just counts off mileage to 10k and then tells 'ya to change, unlike GM's that has a pretty good algorithm.
My feeling is, since I'm not doing oil analysis, the oil could have gone much, much further (I think this goes in the no-**** column). However, I set my mind to change the bypass filter every 20K and with getting +10K out of an oil change, I'd rather just run the cleaner oil than to push it for it's own sake. I'm not doing this to save a dime. And, if I have to push it to closer to 15K for some reason they'll be no worries. I feel better about something I feel good about.
Swapped to all CAT spin on filters
Increased oil capacity to +16 quarts
Installed a bypass filter
Upgraded the oil pan heater
Installed Banks rear diff cover
Seriously thinking about replacing the CP4 with a DCR.....
Did the same SPE kits for CAT fuel filters and Oil Filters. I also have a disaster prevention kit but I wish I would have just spent the money to go to a DCR. SPE is putting together a CP3 conversion kit as well. Tempting
Interesting. And I had just read an article a few weeks ago about CAT filters and how they are over-rated. The micron rating on many of them isn't as good as the Ford OE stuff, the flow rates are different, lack of bypass safety valve in the filter, and there's a greater risk of internal rust.
I've seen so many of these trucks with 400,000+ miles on them running all factory components. Saw one a couple months ago with 700,000 on the clock and the head gasket finally had let go. None of these high mileage trucks are running fancy filter setups. Seems to me that a CP4 to DCR swap is all that's really needed to make these trucks last forever..
Well, over a year later mine is still doing great. I did have the upper oil pan leak repaired, again, under my Ford ESP. I then immediately deleted the CCV which will surely help with longevity.
But, overall I’m happy with my “longevity” plan. I’ve avoided wasting money on things that do not matter (CAT spin on filters, aftermarket intake manifolds, etc.) and I’ve focused on important things (DPK, EGR/DPF/CCV disappearance, and every fluid and filter on the truck has been replaced) and as I’m now at 105k miles and rolling the truck is doing great and I expect a LONG life out of it now. The oil on my dipstick stays honey colored longer and maybe it’s placebo but I could swear the engine idles smoother.
Today I loaded an AMDP tune to my truck that consists of the Ford OE stock transmission program combined with a very mild 30 HP engine calibration. I’ve been running a “tow tune” for the last 12 months from a local shop, and it has been reliable, but I wasn’t ever 100% happy with the transmission programming portion of it so I think this new combination from AMDP may be the perfect setup to give the truck its longest lifespan.
In short, for longevity I decided to avoid upgrades and instead focus on fixes for common issues these trucks had from the factory. Otherwise, let the Ford engineering do its thing.
I had always thought the filters were there to clean out any contaminents that got into the fuel after processing, it would seem I was wrong. The fuel itself needs to be cleaner for the modern injectors than what is acceptable to produce. Ford says to swap out their filters every 30K or severe sch at every 15K or 6 months. I had wrongfully assumed if you ran clean fuel from a reputable source the filters would not be taxed (therefore a longer lifespan for the filter) and were there for "just in case".
With my setup and use, I think I'll change to every 20K (same time/interval as the oil bypass filter) and change my plan about removing the extra filter of the DPK after the fuel pump is changed out to the DCR. The extra return fuel filter is rated at 9 microns.
I run a water seperator between my aux tank and main tank, then another water seperator at the main tank, then a primary filter at the main tank, and a filter in the return line.
CAT 256-8753 @ 10 micron, water seperators
CAT 1R0749 @ 2 micron, main filter
CAT 081-4662 @ 15 micron or Donaldson P550943 @ 9 microns, for the extra fuel return filter
I've had a bunch of these same parts sitting on the shelf since last winter. I was just about to order more factory oil filters and then said to myself "nope I need to find the time to install this stuff". Can you tell me what filter head you are using for the EABP90? The bypass oil filter is really the only thing I don't have on hand.
I found a coolant leak. Seems to have been leaking a while, just a small amount. Notice the drip a while back but thought it was the windshield washer fluid. Pretty sure I'm going with a mishimoto replacement. Some time this winter I'll do all the coolant work, got a lot of parts waiting to be insalled. Till then I'll try putting some more bend in the tabs, putting more pressue on the sealing surface.
