Short answer is balancing beads. They are dynamic and redistribute in the tire everytime you stop/go. Also, with all-terrain tires with large tread blocks you have a lot of vibration caused by some road surfaces which you can do nothing about, except change to a road tire. So make sure it is speed related and not road surface related.

Long answer. I have not mounted the tires yet but by all interweb reports they AT3 and AT4 are top shelf tires. I'm running a set of Toyo now, also have two that did not balance as well as the other two. Fortunately I have my own tire mounting and balancing equipment so it gives me leeway to experiment. I do not have a road force balancer, my pockets aren't that deep. Side note: if you do take them in for balancing again make sure the machine is a road force unit and they mount the rims by the wheel stud holes and not the center bore, this is the best you can get with a weight balance. The rim should be mounted to the balancer the same way they are mounted to the vehicle. To be clear, the OEM rims are hub centric and should be mounted via the center bore, most aftermarket rims including Method are lug centric.

What I do now is use my balancer to add weights and then add beads. You have to break the bead, pour in the beads and then reseat the bead; just don't let the tire move on the rim or you will have to start all over. I just unseat part of the bead on one side. A tire shop probably will not do this for you, as it is a PITA and out of the ordinary for them. The bead manufacuters say you do not need any other balanancing method. In my view the less work the beads have to do the better, but I'm weird that way.

 

I appreciate the detailed response. I am actively shopping for my own balance machine, I am over paying shops without any attention to detail to balance my stuff. Between our business trucks and trailers I think it would pay for itself in the long run but I wont be springing for a load force machine. I have tried balance beads in the past on another set of 37's and while they did work they results were very inconsistent for me and I wont be doing that again.

 

Yep tire shop rates have gone thorugh the roof, plus doing things on my own time schedule are the reasons I bought mine.

I went with this brand https://www.derekweaver.com/tire-cha...lancer-combos/ About ~7K for both and all the addons for motorcycle tires. Made in Italy. You can find better but for ten's of thousands.

Thus the reason for doing both wheel weights and beads.

 

How can you tell you have over paid for a part?



They give you a free koozie

 

I always get a kick outta their company name. Brings new meaning to getting Fleece'd, lol

My contributions to what I consider to be longevity Mods:

1. Add a skid plate to protect that plastic transmission pan, and other vulnerable exposed hoses and parts. Last weekend I installed an ASFIR skid plate, and am very pleased. I have a thread describing it here
2. CCV reroute kit (eliminating the box, and recycled crud). I went with the SPE kit, with extended hose and internal catch can option. Still debating whether to install a catch can.

 

I have yellow at the rears and black at the fronts

 

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^^^^^^^^ Hmmm did not know they changed the CCV for the '23 model year. Wonder what the new design is. It would seem Ford agreed it to be the cause of the upper oil pan leak issue.

As far as mine I have the SPE internal and vented to atmo. I like the smell, reminiscent of driving a 7.3PS.

 

Finally got the AT4's on the truck this weekend. As posted previously I balance to zero with weights, positions ususally took less than an ounce with one at 2.75oz, and then put in 2.5 scoops of ceramic beads. Looks like I lucked out and these were four perfect tires, even the OEM set of tires had more vibrations than these do, I paid attention to the amount of steering wheel shake when new. This set is smooth as a baby's butt up to over 80mph, rides like a dang passenger car, almost unblievable. Granted I went from a 20" rim to 18" rim so more sidewall cushion but dang not all this is rim size, they are just a well-balanced tire. I work 430 miles from the house, drove it last night, so a lot of miles on secondary roads and highway. No road noise was picked up, a lot quieter than my Toyo's and zero vibration when I change lanes at highway speed or any other time for that matter.

I'm getting used to the rim color, not my favorite but with the HD series choices are limited, actually is making me want to get rid of more chrome. I went from LT295/65R20 Toyo A/T3 (listed 35.1") to a LT285/75R18 Falken Wildpeak A/T4W (listed 35"), the falken's seem taller but the toyo's had ~15k on them. I could tell a marked difference just driving out of my driveway at 30-40ish, major difference in tread and sidewall. Running 60psi front and 70psi rear.​​​​​​






I'm extremely happy with the latest round of work concerning ride quality and handeling.
- replaced all steering linkage (tie rod ends and draglink)
- replaced shocks with reservoir type
- replaced steering dampener with adjustable reservior type
- Installed softer sumo springs on front as bump stops
- Installed air bags on rear, keep 10psi in them (was impressed how much this helped in the rear even when unloaded)
- installed taller sway bar links, was running stock links but had 2" lift
- new tires, different size

I can say it rides better now than when new. Has 115K on it at the moment.

 

Dang, I thought someone snuck up on my truck and shot some pics of the wheels! We have exactly the same wheels and tires, lol. Good choice, I'm loving mine as well.

 

I run Lewis built radius arms and a BDS track bar, so I can put my axle any where I dang well please. The Lewis arms uses Johnny Joints at the frame hanger. The orginal bushings have over 100K on them now so soon I'll be replacing the bushings. They are not worn out, just for $20 bucks a pop, why not.

Also, just received a set of Dynatrac ball joints (these are greasable and rebuildable) and a new set of OEM front spings. The OEM springs are dirt cheap when comparaed to aftermarket springs. I'll probably swap out the springs and ball joints about 150K if not sooner. I'll take some measurements to see how much the OEM 6,000lb springs settled.

This goes along with my philosophy of changing out wear parts before they break. Parts break, not much you can do about that, but wearing something out and running it till it breaks seems to be asking for more break downs than are necessary and usually costs more money in the long run. Proper lubrication, clean lubricant, and replacing parts with higher quality should go a long way to increase reliablity and longevity.

Pics from lift install early 2019 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18482652 The powder coating or paint on the Lewis arms has held up great.







Front diff fluid:
Changed out my front diff fluid this weekend. Did the first change at 60K some years back, oil was clean, very clean. Used royal purple then. Changed out the fluid this weekend and replaced the cover with a heavy one. The fluid still had some purple tint but definitely the gear set broke in between 60k to 114K, fluid was grey. I should have changed it sooner. Lesson learned. Also, used a lube locker gasket, got to say I really like the cleanliness of using it. Clean and refill time was instant. Moral of the story is check your front diff fluid. Used Amsoil this time.

 

Thank you for following up with this information. I made an appointment to have some 37x12.5R18 Toyo AT3's installed, but canceled. The last two sets of toyo's I ran only lasted 40K miles and I cant bring myself to pay for another set of those.. I have over 50K on my Wild Peak AT3W and other than the vibration on two of them they have had amazing traction and wear characteristics. I really want the AT4, I am patiently waiting for them to release this size...... I have the same wheel as you as well, just in black, long bed also.

 

Wanted to make a post on an interesting event in the maintenance of my truck. Short story is pull a vacuum on the coolant systems before you fill; there are to many places for air to be trapped in these systems if you just drain and fill the old fashion way. Tool used and how-to video below.

Long story. I did a drain and flush last year on my engine, both loops, while doing a whole list of mods. There was a 100K on the clock and time do it anyway, IMO. The smaller loop went great, drained, pulled the vacuum, and let the coolant be drawn into the system. The larger loop did not go as well, I had a leak and it took a minute to find and fix, plus with other issues while doing the list of mods I ended up not getting a good vacuum and just filled the system by pouring in coolant. Did not want to waste more coolant by draining completely and starting over with the process. Carried a gallon with me just in case but the de-gas tank level never moved in the next year and ~15K miles. Then, two weeks ago I do a trip without opening my hood so, +1,000miles and mixed towing and empty, days later I opened the hood to find the de-gas tank almost empty. No leaks nor exhaust smoke to be found, no coolant smell at all. Topped off the tank and did more miles, level never moved in the next couple of weeks. My best guess is there was air trapped in the system and it took a year and 15Kmiles to work itself out the system. If you fill the system without a vacuum you run the risk of increasing the potential of cavitation wear.




This guy show the procedure with the tool. He seems to work out of his garage and takes in local work as a side gig. Never seen him do something incorrect.

 

That's exactly the kit that I bought about a month ago, lol. I am preparing to do a drain and fill, as I've got 95K on the clock right now. Purchased the S&B upper hose and t-stat housing (very nice product, btw), and also an SPE thermostat. Just waiting on the SPE lower hose to arrive, then drain, install hoses and t-stat, and use the above-mentioned kit to suck coolant back into the system.

Edit: I just finished watching the video, very instructive, thanks for posting! When I do mine, however, I don't think I'm going to drain the block - only because there's not really that much to drain (from what he shows in the video). That small amount in the block that remains should be bolstered by the fresh coolant added to the primary and secondary systems, so I'm going to save myself the trouble.

I'm also going to use the 50/50 premix coolant, to save the trouble of mixing. I've got five gallons already bought, so I think I'll buy two more, just to have a little left over for periodic topping off later.

 

The lowest point is the lower radiator hose, since you are going to replace it you will get almost all out of the block. As far as 50/50 versus concentrate, cost is the difference. If you do concentrate make sure to use distilled water and nothing else.