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Oil filter removal ‘hack’ (literally, lol)

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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 10:16 AM
  #1  
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Oil filter removal ‘hack’ (literally, lol)







Drive pointy pry bar or similar tool into the filter.

Use tool to loosen filter.

Let oil drain out of filter. (No messy, cumbersome filter full of oil to handle)

A really stuck filter may require another ‘bite’/2nd hole to rotate the filter enough to remove by hand.

The last pic includes (modified) drain pan so nobody from CA thinks I’m just dumping oil on the ground. )

I recommend using bearing/chassis grease to lube the new filter gasket. I DO NOT pre-fill the oil filter because there is not a good reason to - in spite of it being ‘common practice’.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 10:54 AM
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I do this same thing and literally just changed my oil last night. However I set a funnel on top of a used oil container and catch it directly that way I don't have to pour it from the pan to the container .

I DO prefill the filter (even though i beleive you don't need to) because it's easy to do so why not I guess? To each his own.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 11:33 AM
  #3  
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Have yet to have one get stuck, maybe because I get the motor warm. But, if it just doesnt give, and a holes' already been punctured...then what?
I'll make sure the filter is loose before penetrating a nail on the bottom, to allow it to drain..this way, IF it was stuck, I can atleast still drive the truck and come with some other method of get'n ur loose...
I also oreill. Some reason, pressure in a voided area doesn't seem goid..but then, whatta I know
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 12:54 PM
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Jason, did you tear that blown motor apart yet? Like to see some pictures. I know a sore subject, but like to see what all happen.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 03:26 PM
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Gets stuck???? Never give up!!!

Besides, this is how I get the stuck ones off. A bad one will require the punch to be driven all the way through and maybe near the top of filter - but I’ve yet to have one beat me.

There is is no harm in pre-filling. Do it if it makes ya feel good!! You have my full support.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Jason, did you tear that blown motor apart yet? Like to see some pictures. I know a sore subject, but like to see what all happen.
That was a few years ago. I think I posted about it back then? I’ll have to look.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 04:17 PM
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At least you didn't need an air hammer or two guys with 30" ratchets to get that filter off. Those make for some interesting nights
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
A bad one will require the punch to be driven all the way through and maybe near the top of filter

A few years ago I had one like this. When I got done it looked like the hulk had gotten ahold if it. It was really bad.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 07:49 PM
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My “hack” for removing the filter without getting oil covered is a bit different. I use a 5 gallon bucket for the catch pan. Step 1 is to takes the filter off and let it fall into the empty bucket. Learned this was step 1 the hard way.

First time changing the oil in the ole 7.3 involved my normal method of oil drain then filter removal. That makes for a big splash in the 5 gallon bucket. Those slippery things are heavy and hard to hang onto.

Oh, and I am a filter filler. Just like to have as little time as possible before oil pressure builds. Does it really matter? Naw, but makes me feel better.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:03 PM
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Mine stalls if i don't fill the oil filter?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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Oil is not ‘starved’ from anywhere and the delay caused by empty filter is insignificant. Remove filter and crank engine over a few revolutions. You’ll be amazed how much oil the LPOP moves


I posted this in another thread recently.


Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Another common myth BUSTED.

Maybe we should start myth busting thread.


The Power Stroke 7.3 Liter Diesel engine lubrication system is comprised of a low-pressure system and a high-pressure system. The low-pressure system provides primary engine lubrication while the high-pressure system provides the hydraulic pressure required to actuate the fuel injectors.

The low-pressure lubricating system draws oil from the engine oil pan through the oil pump screen cover and tube into the oil inlet passage in the front cover. The gerotor oil pump then pumps the oil back out through the outlet passage in the front cover.

The oil separates into two paths.

One flow path sends oil into the high-pressure pump reservoir initial fill gallery (integral to the cylinder block) and through the anti-drainback check ball. During cold start the oil feeds in two directions from the anti-drainback check ball. One feed leaves the check ball and enters the front cover. From there it enters the high-pressure oil reservoir. The second feed exits the check ball and enters the left bank valve lifter oil gallery.

After leaving the front cover outlet passage, the second oil path sends the oil through the oil cooler and filter assembly. Once inside the filter housing, the oil filter bypass valve may open to vent excess pressure and oil back into the oil pan. After the oil has been circulated through the oil filter, the oil feed then enters the main oil gallery (integral to the cylinder block). Once in the main oil gallery, the oil is routed to the five crankshaft main bearings through five drilled and machined feed galleries (integral to the cylinder block). The five camshaft bearings receive the oil feed through five vertically drilled and machined feed galleries connected to the main bearing feed galleries. The front main bearing feed gallery also supplies oil to the right bank valve lifter oil gallery through a vertically drilled and machined oil feed gallery (integral to the cylinder block). The rear main bearing oil feed gallery also supplies oil to the turbocharger assembly through a vertically drilled and machined oil feed gallery (integral to the cylinder block).

Pressurized oil entering the turbocharger assembly is utilized to lubricate the compressor/turbine shaft. The oil drains back through the turbocharger mounting pedestal and back into the oil pan. The valve lifter oil gallery supplies pressurized oil to the valve tappets and to the piston cooling oil jets. Oil from the valve tappets is routed upward to the cylinder head valve train through hollow push rods. Once in the cylinder head, the oil drains back to the oil pan through return ports at each end of the cylinder head.


https://dieseliq.com/lubrication-system-low-pressure
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 02:07 AM
  #12  
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I prefill every engine,fuel or hydraulic filter that is mounted upright..

I made a rookies mistake once and didn't loosen the filter when warm,when i had 6.5 4x4 Suburban..
Filter required an 3/4 inch socket filterchain and biggest Knipex available..

What!No Motorcraft filter!...🐒
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 06:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by FinnishStroker

What!No Motorcraft filter!...🐒
Of course it got a new Motorcraft filter! That’s all I use.

This truck got a Motorcraft oil cooler rebuild kit too.





 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 08:43 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Oil is not ‘starved’ from anywhere and the delay caused by empty filter is insignificant. Remove filter and crank engine over a few revolutions. You’ll be amazed how much oil the LPOP moves


I posted this in another thread recently.
No I understand, it's just on my obs the truck stalls if I don't fill the filter for some reason?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 08:58 AM
  #15  
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I had one on a car stuck so bad that no matter what I did the tin housing just kept tearing till it was shredded to bits. I ended up cutting/tearing all the filter away so I could get to the threaded portion with a hammer and chisel to drive it off.
 
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