When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have no idea why people feel the need to “upgrade” the filter system. Oem works good and the increase in resistance can’t be good.
i have a 2022 with 120k on it. I take a bunch of trucks to 150k. Never an oil filtering issue.
The only filter I would think about is the disaster kit, but still then your adding restriction.
Probably the only 2 things to do would be to change the cp4 out and delete. Egr is an absolute clogger. anything else is just cause you like tinkering.
Interesting. And I had just read an article a few weeks ago about CAT filters and how they are over-rated. The micron rating on many of them isn't as good as the Ford OE stuff, the flow rates are different, lack of bypass safety valve in the filter, and there's a greater risk of internal rust.
I've seen so many of these trucks with 400,000+ miles on them running all factory components. Saw one a couple months ago with 700,000 on the clock and the head gasket finally had let go. None of these high mileage trucks are running fancy filter setups. Seems to me that a CP4 to DCR swap is all that's really needed to make these trucks last forever..
Nice looking set ups. Curious why you went with the 90 amsoil bypass, the volume of oil your running you could probably get by the with 100 or 110. I used to run a 100 for two years (circa 50-60k miles) on my old dodge and it was still flowing when I changed it.
If you want to go even more bananas with secondary filters, you could look into the Cat 416-1225 "ultra" high efficiency cross reference for the 1R0749. Above 99.9% (above beta 1000) at 4 microns.
That said a 1R0749 99.70% of the filter at about half the cost.
I think a 12v gear motor on a switch with oil being pumped from the pan into one of the oil ports would prime the 2.5 qts pretty quick.
The video was on Dave's Auto Center YouTube channel. I can see the oil in the pickup tube up to the silicone anti-siphon valve on top of the oil filter being subject drain back into the oil pan. But I can't see all the oil beyond the silicone anti-siphon valve being siphoned back into the oil pan. When he did his oil system capacity measurements, he measured all passages in the oil circuit include those beyond the silicone anti-siphon valve on the oil filter.
So he is right it is worthwhile to put a one-way check valve in the oil pickup tube (better be one that can't clog or fail closed or partially closed), I'm not convinced his volume measurements were accurate for a real-world situation with a high-quality oil filter with a silicone anti-siphon valve. I assume the timing measurements he did with starter crank RPM used an oil filter that had the OEM anti-siphon valve in it, so those timing measurements would seem to be representative of real-world situations. But the volume measurements I'm not convinced of. Regardless, the timing is more important anyway, if the oil drain back is accurate with an OEM type anti-siphon valve on top of the oil filter.
Interesting. And I had just read an article a few weeks ago about CAT filters and how they are over-rated. The micron rating on many of them isn't as good as the Ford OE stuff, the flow rates are different, lack of bypass safety valve in the filter, and there's a greater risk of internal rust.
I've seen so many of these trucks with 400,000+ miles on them running all factory components. Saw one a couple months ago with 700,000 on the clock and the head gasket finally had let go. None of these high mileage trucks are running fancy filter setups. Seems to me that a CP4 to DCR swap is all that's really needed to make these trucks last forever..
I wouldn't say they are overrate per se, just obviously not designed for this application... cause well it ain't their engine.
Cat doesn't publish their specs but the 1R-1807 is an advanced efficiency filter so they are in the 15-30 micron range per Cat's literature.
Based on the promo items for the 1R-1807, is probably somewhere in the 20 micron range circa a beta efficiency of 75.
Further the donaldson cross reference for the 1R-1807 comes in at 21 microns at a beta of 100 (above absolute).
So safe to say, it is probably a 20 micron filter absolute. Options from Wix, Donaldson and Baldwin for the OEM thread all have similar performance with absolute or better micron ratings of 17, 15 and 8 respectively. You do probably gain some flow with the Cat filter but at the cost of the bypass valve. I used to run the DBL7505 on my 2002 7.3, which is a cross reference for the Cat 1R1808, without issue, even in the winter. However once I found out the good old FL-1995 was a 17 micron filter, I decided that the 2 microns I picked up with the blue donaldson wasn't worth 3x the cost. YMMV, if you made it this far, thanks for running down the rabbit hole with me.
Interesting. And I had just read an article a few weeks ago about CAT filters and how they are over-rated. The micron rating on many of them isn't as good as the Ford OE stuff, the flow rates are different, lack of bypass safety valve in the filter, and there's a greater risk of internal rust.
I've seen so many of these trucks with 400,000+ miles on them running all factory components. Saw one a couple months ago with 700,000 on the clock and the head gasket finally had let go. None of these high mileage trucks are running fancy filter setups. Seems to me that a CP4 to DCR swap is all that's really needed to make these trucks last forever..
Couple notes to the comment about. My older eqm, (pre emission) will run like a bat out of hell until they are starved out of fuel. (Plugged up fuel filters cuz they filter so well) Less sophisticated equipment.
The newer units (tier 4) are even more finicky with the tighter emissions regulations. The fuel has to be more refined/clean in order to maintain emissions. If rail pressure isn't at factory specs, the e units will shut down. When this happens you swap out the filters in your back in business.
I have quite a few vehicles in the fleet that have over 300,000 mi, using factory filters and regular maintenance.
Couple examples of old versus new. Older 4.4 Same block, same size generator 100KW with emissions,(DEF)except this one has two turbos, and 3 fuel filters, shares the same oil filter. New cat, DPF only
Couple notes to the comment about. My older eqm, (pre emission) will run like a bat out of hell until they are starved out of fuel. (Plugged up fuel filters cuz they filter so well) Less sophisticated equipment.
The newer units (tier 4) are even more finicky with the tighter emissions regulations. The fuel has to be more refined/clean in order to maintain emissions. If rail pressure isn't at factory specs, the e units will shut down. When this happens you swap out the filters in your back in business.
I have quite a few vehicles in the fleet that have over 300,000 mi, using factory filters and regular maintenance.
Couple examples of old versus new. Older 4.4 Same block, same size generator 100KW with emissions,(DEF)except this one has two turbos, and 3 fuel filters, shares the same oil filter. New cat, DPF only
Hey OldDog,
What type of HPFP is on that third engine/picture. It sure looks CP4ish...
I also like that fuel filters with the clear plastic bottom for a quick visual to see if it's holding any water/contaminants
I have no idea why people feel the need to “upgrade” the filter system. Oem works good and the increase in resistance can’t be good.
i have a 2022 with 120k on it. I take a bunch of trucks to 150k. Never an oil filtering issue.
............
This Memorial day weekend I went 2,000 miles on the oil, pics are below, truck went from 101K to 103K miles on the oil. Does this answer your question why I "upgraded" my oil filter system? I've had numerous diesel in trucks and tractors, never had oil this clean after 100 miles. The choosen filters flow a higher rate than the OEM due to larger surface area (being larger filters). Same thing applies to the fuel system, saving the pump and injectors from any type of contamination is the goal. My goal is 500K with the current motor, when it goes I'll be replacing with the same 6.7. At this point there is no doubt in my mind the 6.7 is a better motor than the 7.3 powerstroke I had for 20 years.
Delete it. Have you seen what the EGR pumps back into the engine? Yikes
Let's say it is flowing air freely in and out.
Originally Posted by rufushusky
Nice looking set ups. Curious why you went with the 90 amsoil bypass, the volume of oil your running you could probably get by the with 100 or 110. I used to run a 100 for two years (circa 50-60k miles) on my old dodge and it was still flowing when I changed it...........
I choose the smallest size because I know I will not run long intervals on the filters and did not want it to hang down below the frame rail. I plan on oil/filter changes at 10K at this point and the bypass filter replacement every other oil change. I'll pour out the used oil from the bypass filter at every change. I know this is early/excessive for amsoil but oil is way cheaper than engines, plus I do get satisfaction when doing maintenance on my machines.
IMHO that is probably contributing to the clean oil more than anything else. Any EGR is going to be brutal with soot loading, honestly this 6.7 isn't even as bad as my 04.5 5.9 CR Cummins. It relied on valve timing for EGR so it would run pretty hot and, I swear, loaded up the oil with even more soot.
Originally Posted by toymaster
I choose the smallest size because I know I will not run long intervals on the filters and did not want it to hang down below the frame rail. I plan on oil/filter changes at 10K at this point and the bypass filter replacement every other oil change. I'll pour out the used oil from the bypass filter at every change. I know this is early/excessive for amsoil but oil is way cheaper than engines, plus I do get satisfaction when doing maintenance on my machines.
