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I finally finished up installing Marty's E-Fuel kit with the Bosch pump. The reason that I chose to buy and install this kit in particular was because it seemed to be very easy to install, integrated most of the factory fuel system except for the factory fuel pump and fuel bowl, and had extensive information and instructions on the website to help guide the installation process. The reason I chose to replace the factory fuel pump and filtration system with an electric fuel system is because I had a severe fuel leak that seemed to be coming from underneath the fuel bowl. I had read some of what Aaron had posted singing the praises of electric fuel systems, and some other people convinced me that I eventually ought to switch to electric fuel. I figured that since I would need to remove the fuel bowl to fix the leak, anyway, I did not want to reinstall the factory fuel bowl.
White95PSD mentioned that he hoped to see lots of pictures from my install. Unfortunately, I did not take very many, but there are many videos, diagrams, and instructions on Marty's site that explain and document the process better than I can (https://martysdieselperformance.com/...ructions-page/). But I can share some details and pain points that White95PSD was hoping to read. Most importantly, for mounting location, I mounted the pump and filter assembly brackets on the inside of the frame between the transfer case and the fuel tank. Because my truck is a Supercab, there is ample room for the pump and filters there. I wanted to mount it inside the frame to help keep it a little better protected.
Many people online say that they have a lot of trouble removing the factory fuel pump, especially the banjo bolt that attaches to the rear of the fuel pump. I did not have much trouble with that and did not need to make a special tool for that or anything. I was able to just use the box end of a Craftsman 1-1/4 inch combination wrench and a little bit of patience. Once I got it turning, it was easy to remove by hand. It was a little tight getting my hand back there, but it would probably be a lot easier for a fellow with nimble fingers. Marty's kit reuses that banjo bolt and fitting on a "fuel pump replacement fitting" there, so I got a box end wrench with an offset to make it even easier to reinstall, and that worked nicely, though the aforementioned combination wrench would have worked fine for the installation process, too.
I had read some advice on the Internet, including in one of Marty's videos to which he links from his site (
), that you can remove the fuel pump bolts and turn the engine over by hand to get the cam lobe to pop the mechanical fuel pump right out of there with the tappet. On a video on Marty's site, he is able to turn the engine over using the alternator pulley. I was skeptical, and that skepticism was justified when I tried and the belt just slipped on the crank pulley. I do not understand why it works on the truck featured in Marty's video and not my own. Maybe I need more belt tension, but I am not too worried about it. I was able to rotate the engine by using the nut on the crank pulley. I had absolutely no luck getting the cam lobe to pop out the fuel pump. Eventually, I gave up and removed the fuel pump manually. The O-ring on the fuel pump that creates that seal on the hole on the engine through which the fuel pump protrudes was pretty tight. What I did to remove the fuel pump was use light, careful, upward hammer strikes anywhere I could land them to gradually get it to lift a little bit. Once it was loosened up a little bit, I was able to gradually and carefully remove it upward by hand. Once I could tell it was ready to come out, I just focused on removing upward only and definitely not tilting it until it was totally clear of its hole. I had a lot of anxiety about this, because I was worried about the tappet falling into the engine, but it was not too difficult. It just required a little bit of intention and focus.
Everything else went pretty much according to plan. The documentation and instructions from Marty's site are pretty good. I notice that on a customer's install video to which Marty's site links, he got the lines mixed up in the engine bay (
). I can kind of see where that might get confusing because Marty intends you to cut the hose that has the fitting that goes onto the return side of the tank selector valve and use the remaining portion to run from the fuel filter outlet to the "fuel pump replacement fitting". Personally, I did not know much about the fuel systems on these trucks before I began to install the kit, so I spent some time learning how the fuel system works, and that helped a lot for me to understand what I am intended to do in order to avoid such a mistake. There are some diagrams on Marty's site that help with that.
One thing I noticed about the kit is that the bracket to which the fuel pressure regulator installs is a little sharp on the edges. I ran my feed line underneath that, and I was worried about that sharp edge chafing the feed line running underneath it. I chose to cut a small piece of the fuel hose supplied with the kit, and cut down the length of that small piece and I used that to nerf the sharp edge of that bracket.
Where I had the most trouble installing this kit was getting the fitting for the feed installed onto the fuel tank selector valve. The quick disconnect fitting for the feed that was on the feed line in the kit liked to close the tab on the quick disconnect fitting even before it was installed. So, I had to get the fitting back there without accidentally bumping the tab, and then get it all of the way on the fitting and then clicked shut. Meanwhile, the tank selector valve was siphoning fuel out of the tank (I did not want to pinch the upstream hose shut because I did not know what shape the upstream hoses were in and did not want to cause new problems by doing that.). I do not have a lift or anything, so I was trying to do this on my back. There is also not much access to that fuel tank selector valve, because it is basically behind the front fuel tank. Needless to say, it was a mess, but I got it figured out. That process is less of a problem with the kit and more of a problem with the type of fittings on the factory fuel tank selector valve and the limited access to the factory location for that.
In the end, it is now installed and my truck is running again, but now without a severe fuel leak. I like the way this kit is set up and tidies up the engine valley in a way that you can basically see all of it. So, it should make any sorts of future leaks easier to identify, and allow me to easily keep the engine valley clean and tidy. If anybody has any questions or wants to see pictures or anything, please let me know.
Did you notice any improvements in runability or idle quality after install? I would like to do that kit someday, though I just changed my fuel pump last month. I was able to loosen the bolts then crank the engine with hydra on no start to pop the pump loose in the hole.
Got my kit and ready to install in a month or so when I have the time. I got the walboro pump with an extra pump just in case. I heard the Bosch isn't technically rated for diesel and may not support upgraded injectors. Would like to hear if you noticed a difference in performance?
I think you have that backwards. The bosch at least the 464-200 is diesel rated while I'm pretty sure the walboro is not.
From the Irate diesel site.
This is the newest release from Bosch (464-200)
– >275l/h @ 72.5psi (we recommend setting them on a 7.3L at 60psi) – Supercedes the 0 580 254 044 – Flows ~10% higher than 044 at 72psi – Weighs 15% less than 044 at 860g – Current draw similar to 044 – M18x1.5 inlet fitting and M12x1.5 outlet fitting – External non return valve – Not suitable for voltage regulation – Compatible with Gasoline and Diesel
Originally Posted by Harveyearlolstad
Got my kit and ready to install in a month or so when I have the time. I got the walboro pump with an extra pump just in case. I heard the Bosch isn't technically rated for diesel and may not support upgraded injectors. Would like to hear if you noticed a difference in performance?
I see, I'm sure you're right. Why would they sell the walboro in these kits if they are not diesel rated? At least I got a second one. If I burn through one on the walboros I probably will get a Bosch if the second burns up.
Just looked up Marty's website, they claim the walbro's are rated for 250/100 injectors and the Bosch are not rated for anything larger than 160's. They said the Walbro are ok with diesel and a very low failure rate. Not sure about the failure rate because I have heard people having to replace them on various utube videos and this forum. That's why I got a second walbro. Eny, minie, miny, moe?
I finally finished up installing Marty's E-Fuel kit with the Bosch pump. The reason that I chose to buy and install this kit in particular was because it seemed to be very easy to install, integrated most of the factory fuel system except for the factory fuel pump and fuel bowl, and had extensive information and instructions on the website to help guide the installation process. The reason I chose to replace the factory fuel pump and filtration system with an electric fuel system is because I had a severe fuel leak that seemed to be coming from underneath the fuel bowl. I had read some of what Aaron had posted singing the praises of electric fuel systems, and some other people convinced me that I eventually ought to switch to electric fuel. I figured that since I would need to remove the fuel bowl to fix the leak, anyway, I did not want to reinstall the factory fuel bowl.
White95PSD mentioned that he hoped to see lots of pictures from my install. Unfortunately, I did not take very many, but there are many videos, diagrams, and instructions on Marty's site that explain and document the process better than I can (https://martysdieselperformance.com/...ructions-page/). But I can share some details and pain points that White95PSD was hoping to read. Most importantly, for mounting location, I mounted the pump and filter assembly brackets on the inside of the frame between the transfer case and the fuel tank. Because my truck is a Supercab, there is ample room for the pump and filters there. I wanted to mount it inside the frame to help keep it a little better protected.
Many people online say that they have a lot of trouble removing the factory fuel pump, especially the banjo bolt that attaches to the rear of the fuel pump. I did not have much trouble with that and did not need to make a special tool for that or anything. I was able to just use the box end of a Craftsman 1-1/4 inch combination wrench and a little bit of patience. Once I got it turning, it was easy to remove by hand. It was a little tight getting my hand back there, but it would probably be a lot easier for a fellow with nimble fingers. Marty's kit reuses that banjo bolt and fitting on a "fuel pump replacement fitting" there, so I got a box end wrench with an offset to make it even easier to reinstall, and that worked nicely, though the aforementioned combination wrench would have worked fine for the installation process, too.
I had read some advice on the Internet, including in one of Marty's videos to which he links from his site (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqaYX36FxhA), that you can remove the fuel pump bolts and turn the engine over by hand to get the cam lobe to pop the mechanical fuel pump right out of there with the tappet. On a video on Marty's site, he is able to turn the engine over using the alternator pulley. I was skeptical, and that skepticism was justified when I tried and the belt just slipped on the crank pulley. I do not understand why it works on the truck featured in Marty's video and not my own. Maybe I need more belt tension, but I am not too worried about it. I was able to rotate the engine by using the nut on the crank pulley. I had absolutely no luck getting the cam lobe to pop out the fuel pump. Eventually, I gave up and removed the fuel pump manually. The O-ring on the fuel pump that creates that seal on the hole on the engine through which the fuel pump protrudes was pretty tight. What I did to remove the fuel pump was use light, careful, upward hammer strikes anywhere I could land them to gradually get it to lift a little bit. Once it was loosened up a little bit, I was able to gradually and carefully remove it upward by hand. Once I could tell it was ready to come out, I just focused on removing upward only and definitely not tilting it until it was totally clear of its hole. I had a lot of anxiety about this, because I was worried about the tappet falling into the engine, but it was not too difficult. It just required a little bit of intention and focus.
Everything else went pretty much according to plan. The documentation and instructions from Marty's site are pretty good. I notice that on a customer's install video to which Marty's site links, he got the lines mixed up in the engine bay (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uzt4CXTImpk&t=1s). I can kind of see where that might get confusing because Marty intends you to cut the hose that has the fitting that goes onto the return side of the tank selector valve and use the remaining portion to run from the fuel filter outlet to the "fuel pump replacement fitting". Personally, I did not know much about the fuel systems on these trucks before I began to install the kit, so I spent some time learning how the fuel system works, and that helped a lot for me to understand what I am intended to do in order to avoid such a mistake. There are some diagrams on Marty's site that help with that.
One thing I noticed about the kit is that the bracket to which the fuel pressure regulator installs is a little sharp on the edges. I ran my feed line underneath that, and I was worried about that sharp edge chafing the feed line running underneath it. I chose to cut a small piece of the fuel hose supplied with the kit, and cut down the length of that small piece and I used that to nerf the sharp edge of that bracket.
Where I had the most trouble installing this kit was getting the fitting for the feed installed onto the fuel tank selector valve. The quick disconnect fitting for the feed that was on the feed line in the kit liked to close the tab on the quick disconnect fitting even before it was installed. So, I had to get the fitting back there without accidentally bumping the tab, and then get it all of the way on the fitting and then clicked shut. Meanwhile, the tank selector valve was siphoning fuel out of the tank (I did not want to pinch the upstream hose shut because I did not know what shape the upstream hoses were in and did not want to cause new problems by doing that.). I do not have a lift or anything, so I was trying to do this on my back. There is also not much access to that fuel tank selector valve, because it is basically behind the front fuel tank. Needless to say, it was a mess, but I got it figured out. That process is less of a problem with the kit and more of a problem with the type of fittings on the factory fuel tank selector valve and the limited access to the factory location for that.
In the end, it is now installed and my truck is running again, but now without a severe fuel leak. I like the way this kit is set up and tidies up the engine valley in a way that you can basically see all of it. So, it should make any sorts of future leaks easier to identify, and allow me to easily keep the engine valley clean and tidy. If anybody has any questions or wants to see pictures or anything, please let me know.
Excellent write up! Thanks buddy for all the support. I am looking to do the efuel soon. I rebuilt the bowl/fpr, new riff raff return lines and new motor craft mechanical pump last year. I had to modify my box end just a little for some extra clearance at the pedestal. Installed the tranny filter today along with some nerf bars. Doing coolant filter this week. Sending back the OEM steering box to get my core charge back tomorrow from last weekend’s blue top install. Little notch with the grinder helped get that extra turn and orientation on banjo bolt. Good bye! No leaks. So far it feels great paired with the new moog coil springs.
I will take a picture or pictures tomorrow. Is there anything that you want to see in particular or just what the engine bay looks like with the E-Fuel components instead of the fuel bowl and pump?
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