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It might be kind of cool to rig up the switch in the cab to turn on a pump to pump to the rear tank. Leave the sending unit and the gauge so that you can see the level in the front tank as it pumps out. You would need a second fuel pump to do that, though.
I saw a video on YouTube in which Peg over there at Zip Ties N Bias Plies replaced the selector valve on one of his trucks with a pair of valves. Not exactly what you're asking for, but might give you some ideas. Here's a link to it, but be warned that there's hastily-censored coarse language in there and vulgar jokes, in case you're not familiar with his channel. He is not a guy that is typically known for keeping things nice or caring about keeping things nice, but it might give you some ideas. At the very least, it's entertaining. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1Uqum9JDPk
Did some hunting for Asco solenoid valves on fleabay to see if 2 3-way valves would be a good choice, one each for supply & return. Problem is, quality fuel rated solenoid valves are very expensive. so are 12 volt coils for them.
Then this marine fuel valve showed up in a goggle search:
Groco FV-65038 6 port bronze fuel valve
Tried leaving a link but their website has issues.
Basically it is just a plug valve. OEM selector valve has internal switch that verifies front or rear after spool has moved.
Why not verify with a small microswitch and 1/4" shaft stop for a cam on the 6-way valve?
Could hide the handle under driver's seat.
I pull the rear lines from the rear sending unit and turned the key on with the lines submerged. Still had high vacuum, around 10.
I then pulled the rear lines at the selector valve and submerged em in fuel and the readings were way improved, around 6. It seems the lines routing to the rear are very restrictive in addition to the added distance. I'm hoping Marty's pre pump solutions will fix this issue. Another $300 added to this project. 😞
The worst case scenario is that it was the selector Valve itself (due to design) that was causing the added vacuum readings but it seems that's not the case. I'm still getting good readings with the selector valve switched to rear shown below in pic. Any thoughts?
It looks like you found the problem. I hope the pre-pump solutions kit fixes the issue. It's probably a good thing that the e-fuel conversion project helped you to discover this other issue. Please let us know how the pre-pump solutions installation goes.
I'm working on my install now. The fuel bowl sprung another leak, and I'm tired of messing with it. I couldn't really find any pictures of reg cab 4x4 installs. They have to go outside of the frame, no room between the transfer case and the fuel tank. I wanted mine up above the frame rail.
This is what I came up with. I made a shield out of some galvanized sheet i had to protect it from whatever the tire is slinging up.
I can run both tanks way down without issues, so the umbrellas must be intact.
If the vacuum readings justify it, I'll do the pre pump solution kit. If the vacuum readings are good, I probably won't. If it's not broken, why fix it?
Just finished up the install. I'm running 6inhg front tank, and 7inhg rear tank. This is within Marty's spec for both tanks. I will be doing the pre pump solutions eventually. I had cleaned the fuel bowl earlier this year, and upon removal, there was some debris in the bottom. I used a hose shoved down the filler tube attached to a transfer pump to pull some fuel to test the pump. Some debris came thru the transfer pump as well.
So my vacuum readings are fine, but I don't think my tanks are healthy.
Good to hear your readings are fine. Your truck is a CCLB?
Mine is regular cab. The only hiccup I had is the feed line to the pump is borderline to short. Since I put my setup outside the frame under the bed, the feed from the selector is running backwards and under the frame. It's stretched pretty tight. I might check with Marty and see if I can get the selector side fitting and a clamp to make a longer line. I had plenty left over after I made the cuts in the valley.
I see, running the lines under the frame is kinda sketchy. I too had a little hose left over only about 2'. I ran my "pump to engine" feed line through a frame hole to the outside frame to the pump/filter assembly on the outside of the frame. I kinda regret it thinking there maybe rubbing long term which could result in damage. I should have ran over the top of the frame instead. I was thinking of aesthetics more than cable protection.
Clean truck. I would love to buy one like that for my son when he comes to that age. The regular can is more fun to drive around than my CCLB. My truck is like a boat but I need the extra passenger room for the family when we go to the mountains on trips.
Where I was concerned about rubbing/chafing of the hose, I split some 3/4 heater hose lengthwise and put it around the fuel line with zip ties on each end.
I can keep an eye on the heater hose to check for wear. If rubbing is damaging the heater hose, it's simple and cheap to split another length of hose and change it out before it wears into the fuel line.
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