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I'm surprised to see these issues depending on tank. I'm still rocking the walbro I put on 11? Years ago..no pressure loss on my in cab gauge . This is on the 250/200s at 450hp tow tune
Pulling the camper..
I installed the supplied vacuum gauge and pressure gauge. I do notice a slight vacuum difference between the tanks. One is farther from the pump than the other, and that’s what I see. The rear tank pulls slightly more vacuum.
I checked the lines today and they seem orientated correctly. I guess this weekend I will be pulling them off and blowing them out. I'm almost sure they will be clear.
Wondering if there is a easy way to upsize the hose in between the selector valve and the rear tank. The stock tubing looks very restrictive. ?
I checked the lines today and they seem orientated correctly. I guess this weekend I will be pulling them off and blowing them out. I'm almost sure they will be clear.
Wondering if there is a easy way to upsize the hose in between the selector valve and the rear tank. The stock tubing looks very restrictive. ?
I have trouble shot this issue with another member with the exact same setup and exact same symptoms. We both finally concluded that we will be installing the large rear tank, ditching the selector valve and carrying on with life. I have a few larger jobs to do and then I can call this truck hillbilly restored. Fuel tank, steering gear and radiator core support. Fuel tank is next. Im going to start a new thread so I can get the tank number, filler neck number and all that. Maybe in July.
Is there a way to keep the front tank to transfer to the rear?
That I don't know. At the beginning I wanted to keep things near OEM for the sake of "resale" but now I just don't care. I will most likely never sell the truck and I want to do everything I can to make it as reliable as possible. Efuel was something I didnt care that much about because Super duties went to it but the whole re engineering of the fuel tank set up kinda turned me off.
Is there a way to keep the front tank to transfer to the rear?
It might be kind of cool to rig up the switch in the cab to turn on a pump to pump to the rear tank. Leave the sending unit and the gauge so that you can see the level in the front tank as it pumps out. You would need a second fuel pump to do that, though.
I saw a video on YouTube in which Peg over there at Zip Ties N Bias Plies replaced the selector valve on one of his trucks with a pair of valves. Not exactly what you're asking for, but might give you some ideas. Here's a link to it, but be warned that there's hastily-censored coarse language in there and vulgar jokes, in case you're not familiar with his channel. He is not a guy that is typically known for keeping things nice or caring about keeping things nice, but it might give you some ideas. At the very least, it's entertaining.
I pulled the rear fuel lines out from the selector valve to the rear tank. I shot brake cleaner, let em soaked and then blasted air through the lines with my air compressor. Slapped the lines back in and reconnected. Vacuum gauge still in the red when truck is idling on the rear tank. Not much came out of the lines in regards to debris. My system is with the walbro pump. I'm thinking of just seeing how long the pump will last with this kind of readings but first I will reach out to Marty's to see what they have to say.
The other thing I can do is pull out the selector valve and clean it out too. I'm really tired of taking diesel baths, it's getting old. 🙄
I can pretty much silence my pump whine by cranking the pressure up, way up. I'm sure thats because the return flow is much less at 90psi than it is at 60. My regulator is fuelab 515 and the documentation recommends at least a 3/8 return line.
I wonder if you could disconnect the supply line at the selector valve that goes to the rear tank and connect a line that just runs into a five gallon bucket. I reckon that would tell you if the restriction is in the tank or at the selector valve. If you still have excessive vacuum with the selector valve as part of the system, but sucking from a bucket instead of the tank, you would then know that your problem is the selector valve. If the problem subsides sucking from the bucket, you would then know that the problem exists in either the line going to the rear tank or with the hardware in the tank itself.
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