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Got the pre pump solutions kit installed. 7 vacuum on the front and 8.5 vacuum on the rear while idling. I think those readings are acceptable. Those restrictive fuel lines combined with the added length of the cclb just was too much for the system. Problem solved!
Got the pre pump solutions kit installed. 7 vacuum on the front and 8.5 vacuum on the rear while idling. I think those readings are acceptable. Those restrictive fuel lines combined with the added length of the cclb just was too much for the system. Problem solved!
Good to hear because I just ordered 25ft of parker 801-6 from Hyspeco and some quick connects from the jungle store to try and do the same thing.
I installed the suction side line last night and it seems to have cured the problem by the sound of the pump anyway. The pitch still changes I'm thinking thats to be expected because thats a heck of a lot more line and vacuum than the front tank, but its not screaming like it was. I wont know for sure because I have not drove it yet, it would fall on its face with the rear tank. For those looking to keep the selector and having problems with the vacuum on the rear tank these are the parts I used. I only did the suction side because that where the problem is.
Pushlok fuel line https://www.hyspeco.com/itemdetail/801-6-BLU-RL
3/8 to 3/8 barb bundy connector straight
WAY CHEAPER. I guess I'm a sucker, could have saved over $200.
You also didn't have to waste time looking the stuff up and who knows about the quality of the jungle store fittings. Only time will tell that. Those stock lines are pretty restrictive compared to the 3/8 PL hose. Lots of bends and transitions of rubber to steel.
Got the pre pump solutions kit installed. 7 vacuum on the front and 8.5 vacuum on the rear while idling. I think those readings are acceptable. Those restrictive fuel lines combined with the added length of the cclb just was too much for the system. Problem solved!
I just put on my pump solutions kit and it showed good readings with the first key on test so I went on a drive and when I stopped I put it and park and left the truck running to go under and check my gauge. I felt the pump and it was close to being to hot to hold so I quickly shut off the truck and am kind of stumped why would my readings be good but pump hot
I just put on my pump solutions kit and it showed good readings with the first key on test so I went on a drive and when I stopped I put it and park and left the truck running to go under and check my gauge. I felt the pump and it was close to being to hot to hold so I quickly shut off the truck and am kind of stumped why would my readings be good but pump hot
Pump is cooled by fuel and the returning fuel to the tank is hot after being compressed and then running through the heads. So the pump is going to get warmer. Regulated returns heat the fuel no matter what you do.
Regulated returns heat the fuel no matter what you do.
You can plumb a cooler in the return line, but its just adding unnecessary complication and additional failure points.
I'm about 200 miles in, vacuum readings are holding steady.
I'm not satisfied with the key on operation of the pump. I'd like to change it to prime for a bit with key on power, then off until the engine is running.
A timer relay and a oil pressure switch would be easy to add. I don't need the harness in the above link, just the controls. I'm not sure how the Super Dutys are controlling the pumps. I'm going to see if I can find wiring diagrams for the Super Duty pump and maybe find a way to have the PCM trigger the fuel pump relay.
You can plumb a cooler in the return line, but its just adding unnecessary complication and additional failure points.
I'm about 200 miles in, vacuum readings are holding steady.
I'm not satisfied with the key on operation of the pump. I'd like to change it to prime for a bit with key on power, then off until the engine is running.
A timer relay and a oil pressure switch would be easy to add. I don't need the harness in the above link, just the controls. I'm not sure how the Super Dutys are controlling the pumps. I'm going to see if I can find wiring diagrams for the Super Duty pump and maybe find a way to have the PCM trigger the fuel pump relay.
I know my lift pump on my Duramax is controlled by a separate oil pressure switch. You could probably set it up to run the same way on these to prime and then stay on once it sees oil pressure.
*edit* sorry I didn't see your last sentence about the oil pressure switch... Carry on.
I just wanted to post this on here to document this in case anybody else experienced this. I was affected by the issue described on the troubleshooting page on Marty's site here. https://martysdieselperformance.com/...elated-issues/
This issue is a fuel leak at the point indicated by the red arrow on the image from the Marty's Diesel Performance troubleshooting site.
I sent an email to Marty's Diesel Performance about it. The steel fitting and O-ring referenced by the image caption should be on their way to me soon. I will update this thread when I install the new fitting and O-ring.
The new fitting snd O-ring appears to have resolved the leak. Since then, the relay that was supplied with the kit for the fuel pump appears to have failed. That was surprising to me, given its young age. A replacement from the shelf at a parts store resolved that issue. I ordered a couple of spares to keep in the truck.
Last week my e-fuel relay failed. Truck died on the side of the freeway, I assumed it was the walboro pump. Had my passenger crank over the truck while looking at the gauge. The gauge read 0. Went under the truck and slightly wiggled the electric connector after noticing the pump not running with the accessories on. The positive broke at the connector. I assumed it was the pump. I had a spare walboro pump with the truck, (knowing they fail at times) and also had a adjustable wrench. Successfully swapped the pump and surprisingly the pump wasn't working. Accepted defeat and called a tow truck. Got home, grabbed my electrical meter and quickly realized that the relay went bad. Went to the auto parts store and purchased a relay for $12. Easy install. Marty's is sending me a electrical connector for the pump. Maybe some copper was showing and started corroding. Not sure though. It's looks like excessive heat, maybe. I will be buying another spare relay and keeping a socket set on the truck as I realized an adjustable wrench may limit my abilities. Lol
If u get a chance I suggest checking the wiring at the pump connector and buying a spare relay.
Problems like that are the only thing that deters me from this system. I put a e fuel pump in my Datsun 510 like 25 years ago though and have never had a problem though the “system” is a lot more simple.
The typical e fuel setup is pretty simple. Small things like aging connectors can happen to any system. You also do a DIY setup with your choice of fittings.
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