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Marty's E-Fuel Kit

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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 09:23 PM
  #31  
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I have had nothing but issues with my rear tank and my efuel setup. I did quite a bit of reading and found an article from Strictly Diesel who did the testing on the restriction caused by the switching valve. Front tank with the valve is acceptable barely but rear tank is not. My next project is dumping the valve and a rear tank swap. I found a decent bed bolt in spare tire holder.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 10:00 PM
  #32  
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Really, you would think that the website would mention the fact that their kits have issues with the rear tanks/selector valves on these trucks. I didn't think I had my rear lines flipped. I dropped both tanks as recommended and inspected them. I will have to reinvestigate my install next weekend. I know I don't have any blockages either.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 10:34 PM
  #33  
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I think it's pretty clear from reading Marty's material that these aging fuel systems can cause problems for the electric fuel setup. That is why the initial testing procedures have you measuring vacuum from each tank with published acceptable ranges. Marty's Diesel also sells a "Pre-Pump Solutions Kit" that should take care of any upstream problems, except with the selector valve.

Pre-pump vacuum looks good on my truck, but I seem to have plugged one fuel filter already. I'm hoping that I just got some kind of junky fuel somehow and hoping that I don't have some kind of particles in my fuel that are fine enough to make it through the fuel/water separator and pump, but coarse enough to plug the fuel filter. You can bet that I will be carrying spare filters in the truck from now on, either way. I siphoned quite a bit of fuel while originally putting the fuel system together and didn't notice any strange contaminants or anything in the fuel while I was bathing in it or looking at it in clean buckets. I figure that anything would have to be pretty fine to get through the fuel/water separator, which did not appear to be plugged.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 11:38 PM
  #34  
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From: Norcal
Well, I dropped my tanks and they were relatively clean inside. I didn't care for the pre pump solutions too much as it required that the tanks have fuel lines in the bottom of the tanks. Plus, I didn't want to spend the money. I guess I will have to keep tinkering around with it and reach out the Marty's.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 06:27 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BuckHammer
Many people online say that they have a lot of trouble removing the factory fuel pump, especially the banjo bolt that attaches to the rear of the fuel pump. I did not have much trouble with that and did not need to make a special tool for that or anything.

I had to do a fuel pump last year, and I'm still doing the old mechanical. And.. Holy crap this was a pain for once. Getting the banjo out all that, not hard when you know what your doing.

The effing pump seal had swollen so hard. I couldn't tell if the lobe was TDC. I had a friend helping me while i turned the motor over and it wasn't moving. So finally i guessed and was close, but I had to pry it out and twist and all the things and it was damn near stuck in there.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 06:36 AM
  #36  
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I have replaced everything in regards to the fuel system. Lines, shower heads, new Ford selector valve. Wish I didn't after doing my research. High volume pumps and tiny orifices are not a good combo. https://www.strictlydiesel.com/produ...le-restriction
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 08:25 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 96SD
I have replaced everything in regards to the fuel system. Lines, shower heads, new Ford selector valve. Wish I didn't after doing my research. High volume pumps and tiny orifices are not a good combo. https://www.strictlydiesel.com/produ...le-restriction
I think you might be looking to hard into this data.

If you're making big power, you're not gonna run the dual tank system for starters. And, never really did think of it as a restriction, but people been running the bosh SD pumps on the OBS's with the regulated return for years and years at this point with no issues.

Most issues with pump burn out are bad filtration, not really restrictions in the changeover valve.

And electric system, regardless of this, is going to be more reliable and repairable than the stock mechanical system. You get better filtration, and you get better startup as well. And you're also reducing the leak points and giving a proper regulated pressure system vs the crappy one that is stock to the system.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 08:46 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
I think you might be looking to hard into this data.

If you're making big power, you're not gonna run the dual tank system for starters. And, never really did think of it as a restriction, but people been running the bosh SD pumps on the OBS's with the regulated return for years and years at this point with no issues.

Most issues with pump burn out are bad filtration, not really restrictions in the changeover valve.

And electric system, regardless of this, is going to be more reliable and repairable than the stock mechanical system. You get better filtration, and you get better startup as well. And you're also reducing the leak points and giving a proper regulated pressure system vs the crappy one that is stock to the system.
I 100% agree. I do know that my truck will not run properly on the rear tank with the Bosch 464-200 I also know I am not the only person with this issue. I have a feeling the SD pumps being 150 or so l/h vs my Bosch pump being 275 l/h is part of the problem.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 08:55 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 96SD
I 100% agree. I do know that my truck will not run properly on the rear tank with the Bosch 464-200 I also know I am not the only person with this issue. I have a feeling the SD pumps being 150 or so l/h vs my Bosch pump being 275 l/h is part of the problem.
Something qued in my brain when you said this, but ... I can't recall the reason/fix for it. But I remember reading something about it at one time. Having multi tanks is great, but at the same time if yo'ure going this route, you're better off just doing a bronco tank for the back and doing the hutch mod on it and running a single.

But IIRC, it had something to do with the regulated return. I stopped trying ot keep up like 5 years ago.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 09:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Something qued in my brain when you said this, but ... I can't recall the reason/fix for it. But I remember reading something about it at one time. Having multi tanks is great, but at the same time if yo'ure going this route, you're better off just doing a bronco tank for the back and doing the hutch mod on it and running a single.

But IIRC, it had something to do with the regulated return. I stopped trying ot keep up like 5 years ago.
That is exactly what Im going to do. Ditch the selector, run a larger single tank in the back. Should have take the advise at the beginning and it would already be done.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:47 AM
  #41  
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Did you clean out the fuel lines going from the tank to the selector? Mine had lots of debris from the broken shower head. I removed the lines and blasted them with brake cleaner, then blew them out with high pressure air, lots of stuff came out. I have the original selector, dual tanks, including a 38 gallon rear, still no issues. The E-fuel kit should have no problem pulling from the rear tank.

edit; just saw that you are running the Bosch instead of the Walbro, I have the Walbro which might be the difference.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 10:52 AM
  #42  
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I felt no need to clean the lines. I suppose I could go back to do that without having to drop the tank. My shower head was I great shape in both tanks. The tanks were clear of debris in both tanks.

The only thing I can think of is that either the lines are swapped or the lines rear lines have build up.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 02:23 PM
  #43  
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Pulling the lines was pretty easy, and it wasnt just plastic that came out, lots of sludge. I pulled my bed however, and I dont remember if the lines could come off without pulling the bed easily. One interesting thing that happened, I replaced both my shower heads when I did the bigger rear tank. I drove it for 2 weeks and pulled the sender after, BOTH showerheads were already falling apart, the screens had fallen out. What should I expect from dorman I guess. I replaced them again with Motorcraft units, and wrapped some stainless wire around them to hold the screens on. I put access hatches on my bed luckily, so Its not a very big deal to work on the tanks

edit; Im sure you could blast out the lines without removing them completely, I just didnt have a compressor so I had to take them to my buddy.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 02:50 PM
  #44  
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From: Norcal
It's barely possible to pull the rear lines without dropping the tanks even without pulling the bed. Not easy though. Just as I thought I was done. Took me several weekends to get this system installed with the fam. Giving side eye towards the end.lol
 
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:08 PM
  #45  
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From: Norcal
I got a compressor so I guess I'll have to hit em with some air.
 
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