Hey guys,

I bought my 6.0 ex about a year ago and have been chipping away at things here and there and I’ve finally got to the windows.

I bought it knowing they were stuck in the up position which is fine since I rarely drive it but I’d like to get it fixed before summer.

Anyways, when I press the down button from the drivers control on all 4 windows nothing goes down. If I press down on any of the other doors window buttons individually . Nothing goes down. I can’t imagine all 4 have bad motors so I’m hoping it’s something simple.

When I press the up/down button I do hear something engaging towards the front of the truck. Sounds like a whirring noise coming from the engine.

I don’t even know where to start so thanks in advance for any tips.

 

Have you checked fuse #41, it controls the battery saver relay which will cause the windows not to work

 

It looked okay but I’ll replace it and report back.

Thanks!

 

alright so the fuses are all good. I took off the driver door panel to take a look and the motor is engaging. If I press the up and down button and help the regulator with my hand it’ll go up and down. I lubricated the channels and even put some on the glass thinking it might be getting stuck but that didn’t really help.

so I know it’s getting power and so are all the others. When I hit the down button the windows move ever so slightly.

I find it weird that all 4 of the window motors or whatever went bad. Is that common?

anything else to check?

 

So just to be clear with the door panels off you can get each motor to operate with a little help pushing/pulling?

I had the rear driver operate up but not down, unhooked it spun fine with direct power, switches all checked good, it was a poor ground for that one.

But yes the motors could be wearing out, all at once would be a bit odd, put possible. You can use a meter and a 9 volt battery (just because it is small and has enough power to operate the motor) to check the motors.

 

I don’t know about the other 3 yet since I’ve only pulled the panel off the drivers door. But yeah drivers side will go up and down if I press the button and give the regulator some help with my hand. With all the windows if I hit the button the window will “twitch” and move an eighth of an inch up and down but that’s it. I’m sure once I pull the panels I’ll be able to help it up and down as well.

I got a new regulator and motor for the drivers side yesterday, I’m gonna replace it today or tomorrow and I’ll check back in.

I was just going to get the motor and leave the regulator but I figured for an extra $30 or whatever I might as well be safe than sorry especially since everything IS 20+ years old.

My main question was if there was some central power source that sends extra voltage to all the windows, I figured since all 4 weren’t working properly maybe there was a common motor or something that was weak and not sending enough juice to them and I could start there. That doesn’t seem to be the case (I don’t think) so I’m gonna give the replacement motor/regulator a shot

 

I just replaced the regulator/motor and I’m having the same issue. It goes down much better but it still won’t go up without me helping it.

I oiled the heck out of the window and channels as well and that didn’t really do anything. All I had on hand was 3in1 oil. I’m gonna clean the tracks and get silicone spray tomorrow after work and give that a shot.

I removed the rubber weather stripping from the inner side of the window and no change. The only other thing I can think of is that either a) the track is somehow bent which seems unlikely b) something isn’t providing enough power to that motor or c) the rubber part in the track on the inner door and the exterior weather striping is maybe gummed up?

Any other suggestions on what I should look at?

 

Did you check the ground wire(s) for the motor? That was my problem. I remeber someone saying they just put a ground wire right on their motor to the door metal and that fixed their problem some years back.

If I remember the wiring correctly (can look it up in the tech folder here if I remember correctly) the power for all the windows goes through the driver door switch first, then to the other doors.

These vehicles are getting older and wiring can be a real p.i.t.a. sometimes. Took me a week to find the parasitic draw on my 2001 Ex.

Give it a good look over for any of the tracking to be bent, or rusty at pivot points. As I believe you said above you needed to do that still. The bearing on the scissor tracks in other vehicles I have seen rusty giving the issue you are having.

After the once over... Best I can say is grab a decent volt meter, and crack a beer, and be thorough when you check for voltage and grounding ohms. Check the switches and the motors directly and the resistance for the wire in between. If the wiring all comes out good then I would look to sticking issues caused by the rails, weatherstripping, etc.

I have a few older vehicles and those have not come up as a reason for window issues yet. And the F250 I have is still the stock stuff (whats left of it) that it rolled of the assembly floor with about 40 years ago.

 

As for oil to use, I am a fan of PB Blaster and Kroil, I work heavy Industrial field and those 2 can get the rustiest piece of crap bolt to come out after sitting for a day.

 

Window track is straight, rubber is good, sprayed a ton of silicone spray into the channels. The window goes down no problem but needs help with my hand to go up.

So I also noticed a weird noise from the engine compartment when I was pressing the up/down window button so I taped the button to window up and tracked it. The window switch is somehow activating the washer fluid pump which was empty. I filled the reservoir and now when I press window up or down, the rear wipers spray water. I don’t know what the hell is going on now.

Another fun thing is that I also learned that When I press the power seat buttons they also activate the wiper pump.

when I disconnect the pump, I get no power to the windows or the seats.

This is making me insane, I’m probably just gonna sell this thing as is rather then spend days or thousands for a shop to go thru and fix all the hack wiring the previous owner did.

So frustrating but any ideas that dont require me to re wire this whole truck?

 

Sounds like the voltage is passing through the washer pump to make it to the other components. At this point you'll need a wiring diagram and trace things out.

 

If you have a diesel this probably is not your problem, but is it a gasser?

Can get water intrusion from the windshield that can drip on the fuse box causing it to corrode on the backside that faces upwards (opposite side of fuses). This can cause all sorts of electrical issues. Almost sounds like that is a serious contender for your issue.

Someone has a nice write up on how to clean it up, It wasn't that bad to do, just took a couple hours to take apart clean up and put back in. I did it when I was searching for the parasitic draw that kept killing my battery.

Addressing the water leak would be next after getting things to work properly again. Several posts on how to fix that in this forum too.

 

It’s a diesel and it’s the rear wiper that’s getting water but that’s a good piece of advice. I had a 2002 v10 and the seal under the windshield was old. It snowed and I had the truck parked on an incline and water got into the engine and caused all sorts of issues. The main one was that it pooled on top of my spark plugs and sat there for weeks because I never really drove it. I had to replace a bunch of plugs and coils lol