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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

.3 micron CCV filter

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Old May 4, 2024 | 03:04 PM
  #91  
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I may have figured out why my hot pipe took (almost) two months to get shipped. Read the label...was probably on the freight ship that slammed into the bridge last month holding up merchandise deliveries. And here all this time I thought it was being made by S&B in the USA.LOL

 
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Old May 24, 2024 | 07:25 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
This one is 10CFM for 400HP motors….there are different sizes avail. a .03 micron CCV filter sounds great. Since most of the cans and traps don’t do any filtering…should clean up soot nicely

not sure how long it would last since it’s probally. It serviceable and will probably be a throw away item once it gets filled. there are also different size fitting connections.

https://www.jmesales.com/parker-raco...lter-assembly/





Oh woe they sell a replacement element. probably use a back pressure gauge to tell if it is full.

https://www.jmesales.com/parker-raco...er-assemblies/







sounds like a good place to put a drain petcock valve.

Hose kits




Not cheap but if you want true CCV soot filtering and fluid separation I think this is the ticket.

About the size of a coffee can





the spec sheet pdf

https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Racor/Racor-Engine-Air-Filtration_-_CCV4500-Crankcase-Ventilation-Filter_-_7761.pdf



Two densities of filter media

Do Fritz, what's the scoop with the filter brother?
 
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Old May 24, 2024 | 08:50 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
Do Fritz, what's the scoop with the filter brother?
just got back to nyc yesterday

got the goods from my neighbor

filter, in and out tubes, already have the hoses


trying to decide leave open air or return to intake.

thinking that later

install soon.





 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 10:12 AM
  #94  
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Ahhh gotcha brother... good to hear you guys arrived home safe.

Sounds good, thanks...
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 10:20 AM
  #95  
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No more turbo/egr problems after changing the ebp sensor.


i did have a rock hit my anssoil by pass filter and it got a small spray type hole …spraying oil everywhere .

there are eabp90 substitutes for emergency use but they are all over 10 microns and don’t know since I don’t have real oil pressure indication if that would cuase a pressure drop.

so I pulled the filter, cleaned it with brake free, wire brushed the hole, and metal set the hole with 2 part metal set. Let it cure over night and I ran it for 900 miles with no leaks. It’s probally a perm fix and I’ll buy a new eabp90 as a spare.

 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 10:25 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
No more turbo/egr problems after changing the ebp sensor.


i did have a rock hit my anssoil by pass filter and it got a small spray type hole …spraying oil everywhere .

there are eabp90 substitutes for emergency use but they are all over 10 microns and don’t know since I don’t have real oil pressure indication if that would cuase a pressure drop.

so I pulled the filter, cleaned it with brake free, wire brushed the hole, and metal set the hole with 2 part metal set. Let it cure over night and I ran it for 900 miles with no leaks. It’s probally a perm fix and I’ll buy a new eabp90 as a spare.
Man that sucks... when I install my Air Dog, I'll have to look into a shield for it... I thought I remember a company with Longhorn in the name making a filter shield that's goes in front of the filters.

Glad you fixed it... out of the box thinking. My FS2500 is mounted filter head first and the filter lies horizontally...
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 11:01 AM
  #97  
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I actually have 2 filter shields…didn’t install them…duh

 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 11:07 AM
  #98  
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Here are some unboxing pics




inside









filter element




these I bought on amazon



this stuff came with the kit and it’s the drain back system…if your sump does not have a side hole…you can drill your steel pan and use the drain back kit…but…I think I would need to use a ball check valve on something like this. Elevation would be a mounting concern if your going to use the drain back.




 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 11:15 AM
  #99  
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So comments are

the in and out holes sit above the filter element…there is a diffuser to spread the gas stream across the filter.

it looks like rancor , in the interest of having a service now pop up guage…has the gases running into the inside of the filter then flow thru the filter, and out. Me personally don’t like that…less surface area in the inside of the filter than the outside…I think I will give up the pop up valve functionality and route the gases going from outside of the filter to the inside. Doesn’t make sense to me to have a moisture trap liner on the outside and run gases on the inside….or maybe it works better for moisture that way…something to think about.

still deciding in return to intake or open air. If I do open air I’ll probally replace the filter with fine mesh metal screen roll.

I like the return to intake approach on one hand for any lube value to the turbo vanes but on the other hand..stock ccv brings a lot of heat into intake…maybe this external system diffuses some of that heat.

 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 01:22 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
I actually have 2 filter shields…didn’t install them…duh
Well I'm thinking they will be now...
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 01:28 PM
  #101  
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What's the stock hose size of the nipples that came with the kit? And what's the size of those fittings you bought on Amazon? On my phone now... I'll have to go look back at this on my laptop and take notes...
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 03:07 PM
  #102  
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Old May 25, 2024 | 03:08 PM
  #103  
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I wanted 1” everything hose, fittings, etc.

the drain stuff comes with the filter

 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 07:47 PM
  #104  
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Go to the PDF page 10 of this link. Info on cold weather operation... part numbers on page 11.

https://www.parker.com/literature/Ra...CCV_Series.pdf

"Heater Kits

Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) Systems are used to prevent emissions from contaminating internal surfaces of the engine air induction system and prevent engine room environments from being coated with oily residue. Both functions maintain engine performance and improve operating environment over the life of the engine. In cold weather applications, gases and vapors processed by the CCV system are affected by ambient conditions. The canister is cooled to ambient temperature and oil mist and water vapor particles traveling through the CCV system will then coalesce against the cold interior surfaces of the CCV canister. This process introduces microscopic particles of oil and water to each other. When they mix, an emulsification of the two liquids occurs. This emulsification turns the two particles into a creamy jellylike substance. The mixture slowly builds up as cold air continually cools the canister and the process repeats itself. The emulsified oil-water mixture collect to a point where element life is compromised and crankcase pressure will rise. These heater kits prevent this build-up and ensure filter life by warming the canister surfaces. The temperature of the canister is raised near to that of the crankcase gases entering the CCV assembly. If the canister surfaces are as warm as the crankcase gases, then the oil and water mixture will not coalesce on the interior walls. Since no oil or water coalesces, no emulsification occurs.


Installation Guidelines

1. Clean exterior of CCV canister thoroughly. Adhesive is used to bond insulating sleeve to canister. Oily film present on canister surfaces will affect adhesion.
2. Wrap heater band around CCV assembly and secure Velcro closure to fasten to canister. Align plug with center of CCV product label.
3. Slide insulation sleeve over heater band. Secure sleeve to CCV assembly with adhesive strips located on top of sleeve.
4. For AC models – Connect power cord to appropriate power source with 15 amp circuit.
5. For DC models – See Wiring Diagram on next page for proper installation. 6. Allow enough slack in power cord for element removal (servicing). When routing power cord, avoid rubbing areas and hot surfaces.
Note: These heaters are thermostatically controlled and will turn ON when the canister falls below 156°F (69°C) and will tun OFF when the canister reaches 174°F (79°C). It will take approximately 4 minutes for heater to warm CCV canister to maximum temperature."
 
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Old May 25, 2024 | 08:05 PM
  #105  
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That makes the case to try to mount it in the engine bay.

 
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