.3 micron CCV filter
not sure how long it would last since it’s probally. It serviceable and will probably be a throw away item once it gets filled. there are also different size fitting connections.
https://www.jmesales.com/parker-raco...lter-assembly/
Oh woe they sell a replacement element. probably use a back pressure gauge to tell if it is full.
https://www.jmesales.com/parker-raco...er-assemblies/
sounds like a good place to put a drain petcock valve.
Hose kits
Not cheap but if you want true CCV soot filtering and fluid separation I think this is the ticket.
About the size of a coffee can
the spec sheet pdf
https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Racor/Racor-Engine-Air-Filtration_-_CCV4500-Crankcase-Ventilation-Filter_-_7761.pdf
Two densities of filter media
got the goods from my neighbor
filter, in and out tubes, already have the hoses
trying to decide leave open air or return to intake.
thinking that later
install soon.
i did have a rock hit my anssoil by pass filter and it got a small spray type hole …spraying oil everywhere .
there are eabp90 substitutes for emergency use but they are all over 10 microns and don’t know since I don’t have real oil pressure indication if that would cuase a pressure drop.
so I pulled the filter, cleaned it with brake free, wire brushed the hole, and metal set the hole with 2 part metal set. Let it cure over night and I ran it for 900 miles with no leaks. It’s probally a perm fix and I’ll buy a new eabp90 as a spare.
i did have a rock hit my anssoil by pass filter and it got a small spray type hole …spraying oil everywhere .
there are eabp90 substitutes for emergency use but they are all over 10 microns and don’t know since I don’t have real oil pressure indication if that would cuase a pressure drop.
so I pulled the filter, cleaned it with brake free, wire brushed the hole, and metal set the hole with 2 part metal set. Let it cure over night and I ran it for 900 miles with no leaks. It’s probally a perm fix and I’ll buy a new eabp90 as a spare.
Glad you fixed it... out of the box thinking. My FS2500 is mounted filter head first and the filter lies horizontally...
inside
filter element
these I bought on amazon
this stuff came with the kit and it’s the drain back system…if your sump does not have a side hole…you can drill your steel pan and use the drain back kit…but…I think I would need to use a ball check valve on something like this. Elevation would be a mounting concern if your going to use the drain back.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
the in and out holes sit above the filter element…there is a diffuser to spread the gas stream across the filter.
it looks like rancor , in the interest of having a service now pop up guage…has the gases running into the inside of the filter then flow thru the filter, and out. Me personally don’t like that…less surface area in the inside of the filter than the outside…I think I will give up the pop up valve functionality and route the gases going from outside of the filter to the inside. Doesn’t make sense to me to have a moisture trap liner on the outside and run gases on the inside….or maybe it works better for moisture that way…something to think about.
still deciding in return to intake or open air. If I do open air I’ll probally replace the filter with fine mesh metal screen roll.
I like the return to intake approach on one hand for any lube value to the turbo vanes but on the other hand..stock ccv brings a lot of heat into intake…maybe this external system diffuses some of that heat.
https://www.parker.com/literature/Ra...CCV_Series.pdf
"Heater Kits
Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) Systems are used to prevent emissions from contaminating internal surfaces of the engine air induction system and prevent engine room environments from being coated with oily residue. Both functions maintain engine performance and improve operating environment over the life of the engine. In cold weather applications, gases and vapors processed by the CCV system are affected by ambient conditions. The canister is cooled to ambient temperature and oil mist and water vapor particles traveling through the CCV system will then coalesce against the cold interior surfaces of the CCV canister. This process introduces microscopic particles of oil and water to each other. When they mix, an emulsification of the two liquids occurs. This emulsification turns the two particles into a creamy jellylike substance. The mixture slowly builds up as cold air continually cools the canister and the process repeats itself. The emulsified oil-water mixture collect to a point where element life is compromised and crankcase pressure will rise. These heater kits prevent this build-up and ensure filter life by warming the canister surfaces. The temperature of the canister is raised near to that of the crankcase gases entering the CCV assembly. If the canister surfaces are as warm as the crankcase gases, then the oil and water mixture will not coalesce on the interior walls. Since no oil or water coalesces, no emulsification occurs.
Installation Guidelines
1. Clean exterior of CCV canister thoroughly. Adhesive is used to bond insulating sleeve to canister. Oily film present on canister surfaces will affect adhesion.
2. Wrap heater band around CCV assembly and secure Velcro closure to fasten to canister. Align plug with center of CCV product label.
3. Slide insulation sleeve over heater band. Secure sleeve to CCV assembly with adhesive strips located on top of sleeve.
4. For AC models – Connect power cord to appropriate power source with 15 amp circuit.
5. For DC models – See Wiring Diagram on next page for proper installation. 6. Allow enough slack in power cord for element removal (servicing). When routing power cord, avoid rubbing areas and hot surfaces.
Note: These heaters are thermostatically controlled and will turn ON when the canister falls below 156°F (69°C) and will tun OFF when the canister reaches 174°F (79°C). It will take approximately 4 minutes for heater to warm CCV canister to maximum temperature."










