Newbie 460 issue...HELP!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 2,365
The engine has been bored so it's safe to assume the crank has been ground. the bearings will tell, and if it's been ground then looking at the surfaces of the bearings it's not that bad. I've seen far far worse ones still holding decent oil pressure.
If I'm misreading the OP's budget and expectations for this engine correct me.
If I'm misreading the OP's budget and expectations for this engine correct me.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,173
Likes: 4,780
From: Burbank, WA
My concern is with the observed lack of wear on the cylinder walls and the extent of the damage to the bearings and crank, it looks like an engine that either wasn't rebuilt correctly before, or wasn't cared for after, or both. It may run by slapping it together on the cheap again, but it won't last as long as the previous rebuild. As I said before, the junk that tore it up is still inside the engine, and it will tear it up again in short order without a proper cleaning and rebuild. If none of this matters, that's fine, op's been given advice, can make an informed decision and knows what he's getting into. My 2c.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
A lot of great feedback, and I appreciate everyone's input. My plan is get it hot tanked and inspected thoroughly. If the engine shop thinks it can be put back together with various new parts, then that is what I will do. If it does need more of a complete rebuild, then their cost will dictate what I will do. I have already had the np435 and np205 gone through and sealed back up. Since those are freshly done, I would hate to put this motor back in with it and not be a good runner. Cost is a factor, but right now I do not know what that is exactly. Hope to get with the engine shop on Monday, and I will let you guys know what happens. Thank you again for all the help so far!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 2,365
If the machinist is competent he'll tell you to grind the crank. probably hone the cylinders and hard to say on the heads. this is where the difference between a real build and good enough comes into play. hopefully he'll give you realistic options not just the optimum ones.
Once you go down the optimum path you need the rods reconditioned, align honed, decked, balanced...it goes on and on. there's no point in doing it half right so be ready for anything.
Once you go down the optimum path you need the rods reconditioned, align honed, decked, balanced...it goes on and on. there's no point in doing it half right so be ready for anything.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
If the machinist is competent he'll tell you to grind the crank. probably hone the cylinders and hard to say on the heads. this is where the difference between a real build and good enough comes into play. hopefully he'll give you realistic options not just the optimum ones.
Once you go down the optimum path you need the rods reconditioned, align honed, decked, balanced...it goes on and on. there's no point in doing it half right so be ready for anything.
Once you go down the optimum path you need the rods reconditioned, align honed, decked, balanced...it goes on and on. there's no point in doing it half right so be ready for anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sibbles
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
12
Nov 9, 2007 06:48 PM
