Newbie 460 issue...HELP!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
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Newbie 460 issue...HELP!
Good evening, and thank you for letting me in the group. I'm new to Ford Truck engines, and I need help! I recently pulled a 73-74 460 engine that was swapped in a 78 F250 truck I have. It was running, but I have no clue how well, or even how good the motor is. I pulled it because it was seemed everything was kinda thrown together, putting it nicely. Since then, I gone down this deep rabbit hole LOL. I have purchased the correct conversion engine mounts, oil pan, flywheel, clutch, etc. I drained the engine, and the oil smelled of gasoline strongly, so now I am concerned. I am not an engine expert by no means, so I am looking for advise what to do and or look for. I really do not want to rebuild this motor, since it is so costly. What should I look for, and what steps to see if the motor is good or not. Should I start pulling the intake, heads, pan, etc. to investigate for any issues/damage? I am not looking for high performance, just a good running stock motor....and don't want to worry about the motor smoking, knocking, etc. It also smells of gasoline under the valve covers. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Thomas
Thomas
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,862
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Welcome to the forum.
The smell of gas doesn't mean much on an engine that hasn't been running in a while. but replace the fuel pump it could be the cause.
in any engine you're not sure about it's best to pull it apart and at the very least replace the bearings, rings, lifters and gaskets. get the heads checked and have it hot tanked. it very well could get expensive, or you could find for a few hundred bucks you have a great engine. the thing about problems is even if you don't want to know about them they're going to let you know soon enough.
it's your call, do you feel lucky? if you decide to pull it apart there's plenty of help here to make you successful. but your budget could run from $300-$4000 to get it right. if you want to keep costs down there can be judgement calls made, pictures and measurements can get you honed in on your options.
The smell of gas doesn't mean much on an engine that hasn't been running in a while. but replace the fuel pump it could be the cause.
in any engine you're not sure about it's best to pull it apart and at the very least replace the bearings, rings, lifters and gaskets. get the heads checked and have it hot tanked. it very well could get expensive, or you could find for a few hundred bucks you have a great engine. the thing about problems is even if you don't want to know about them they're going to let you know soon enough.
it's your call, do you feel lucky? if you decide to pull it apart there's plenty of help here to make you successful. but your budget could run from $300-$4000 to get it right. if you want to keep costs down there can be judgement calls made, pictures and measurements can get you honed in on your options.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
Welcome to the forum.
The smell of gas doesn't mean much on an engine that hasn't been running in a while. but replace the fuel pump it could be the cause.
in any engine you're not sure about it's best to pull it apart and at the very least replace the bearings, rings, lifters and gaskets. get the heads checked and have it hot tanked. it very well could get expensive, or you could find for a few hundred bucks you have a great engine. the thing about problems is even if you don't want to know about them they're going to let you know soon enough.
it's your call, do you feel lucky? if you decide to pull it apart there's plenty of help here to make you successful. but your budget could run from $300-$4000 to get it right. if you want to keep costs down there can be judgement calls made, pictures and measurements can get you honed in on your options.
The smell of gas doesn't mean much on an engine that hasn't been running in a while. but replace the fuel pump it could be the cause.
in any engine you're not sure about it's best to pull it apart and at the very least replace the bearings, rings, lifters and gaskets. get the heads checked and have it hot tanked. it very well could get expensive, or you could find for a few hundred bucks you have a great engine. the thing about problems is even if you don't want to know about them they're going to let you know soon enough.
it's your call, do you feel lucky? if you decide to pull it apart there's plenty of help here to make you successful. but your budget could run from $300-$4000 to get it right. if you want to keep costs down there can be judgement calls made, pictures and measurements can get you honed in on your options.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,862
Likes: 2,359
If you really want to keep the cost down I'd get a gasket kit. pull the valve covers, look things over but don't pull the intake or heads. pull the oil pan and front cover. replace the front main seal and check the timing chain. pull the rear main cap and look at the bearing, see if the crank has been turned and what condition the bearings are in. pull a few more to check several. roll in the new rear main seal.
If you do this it's only about $80 and at the very least you'll know what you really have and the condition. and you shouldn't have any leaks . if you find problems go from there.
usually, trucks have a different intake manifold, are you sure you're not going to have to swap that? if you do then replace the head gaskets and check the bores and valves out. they're in the gasket set so why not.
When you get a few bearings and pictures it will be easy to tell if you need to dig deeper . then you can measure a few things.
If you do this it's only about $80 and at the very least you'll know what you really have and the condition. and you shouldn't have any leaks . if you find problems go from there.
usually, trucks have a different intake manifold, are you sure you're not going to have to swap that? if you do then replace the head gaskets and check the bores and valves out. they're in the gasket set so why not.
When you get a few bearings and pictures it will be easy to tell if you need to dig deeper . then you can measure a few things.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
If you really want to keep the cost down I'd get a gasket kit. pull the valve covers, look things over but don't pull the intake or heads. pull the oil pan and front cover. replace the front main seal and check the timing chain. pull the rear main cap and look at the bearing, see if the crank has been turned and what condition the bearings are in. pull a few more to check several. roll in the new rear main seal.
If you do this it's only about $80 and at the very least you'll know what you really have and the condition. and you shouldn't have any leaks . if you find problems go from there.
usually, trucks have a different intake manifold, are you sure you're not going to have to swap that? if you do then replace the head gaskets and check the bores and valves out. they're in the gasket set so why not.
When you get a few bearings and pictures it will be easy to tell if you need to dig deeper . then you can measure a few things.
If you do this it's only about $80 and at the very least you'll know what you really have and the condition. and you shouldn't have any leaks . if you find problems go from there.
usually, trucks have a different intake manifold, are you sure you're not going to have to swap that? if you do then replace the head gaskets and check the bores and valves out. they're in the gasket set so why not.
When you get a few bearings and pictures it will be easy to tell if you need to dig deeper . then you can measure a few things.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,862
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You can do it. having a parts engine can really help out too.
Hopefully it won't take much to get it right. but a gasket set is a great way to find out what you have and it's a cheap way to learn a lot about working on an engine.
Hopefully it won't take much to get it right. but a gasket set is a great way to find out what you have and it's a cheap way to learn a lot about working on an engine.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
Looking at both engines this morning, looks like both have the same intake, and one is a factory 79 truck engine, so I am sure both are truck intakes.
What my plan is today for the engine that had a strong gasoline smell:
Pull the intake, heads, pan front cover.
Remove rear main cap and several others to get you pictures of the bearings. I am assuming that I need to lift the crank to see the topside bearings?
What or wear would you need pictures of/from?
I know you said don't pull the intake and heads yet, but would it hurt to go ahead and do so? I've gone this far, so what the heck LOL.
Thanks again bud
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
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Pulling the heads would be a good idea, just more work. if you might reuse the lifters and rockers be sure you keep them organized as to where they came from and go back .
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
Pulling the heads would be a good idea, just more work. if you might reuse the lifters and rockers be sure you keep them organized as to where they came from and go back .
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
Yes sir...stay tuned LOL...tear down begins today. I will share pics as soon as I have them. Thanks
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 694
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I wish you had done a compression and/or leak down test first before pulling the engine. This would've told you the general health of the engine and how deep into the rabbit hole to go.
Since the engine is out, it'll be tempting not to replace most things.
I ended up swapping my 351m for a freshly built 400 after finding some broken/bent pushrods while replacing a valve cover gasket. I got real deep down that hole, real fast
I figured the original engine needed at least heads rebuilt which would cost a few hundred to get them hot tanked and new valve seals, etc.
Since the engine is out, it'll be tempting not to replace most things.
I ended up swapping my 351m for a freshly built 400 after finding some broken/bent pushrods while replacing a valve cover gasket. I got real deep down that hole, real fast
I figured the original engine needed at least heads rebuilt which would cost a few hundred to get them hot tanked and new valve seals, etc.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
I wish you had done a compression and/or leak down test first before pulling the engine. This would've told you the general health of the engine and how deep into the rabbit hole to go.
Since the engine is out, it'll be tempting not to replace most things.
I ended up swapping my 351m for a freshly built 400 after finding some broken/bent pushrods while replacing a valve cover gasket. I got real deep down that hole, real fast
I figured the original engine needed at least heads rebuilt which would cost a few hundred to get them hot tanked and new valve seals, etc.
Since the engine is out, it'll be tempting not to replace most things.
I ended up swapping my 351m for a freshly built 400 after finding some broken/bent pushrods while replacing a valve cover gasket. I got real deep down that hole, real fast
I figured the original engine needed at least heads rebuilt which would cost a few hundred to get them hot tanked and new valve seals, etc.
Me too...I'm always a day late and a dollar short LOL
Trailering
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 18
Likes: 4
I recently did a similar refresh on a 460 but had a little more up front info on the motor to know it was in pretty good shape. I agree on the gaskets. I replaced the rear main seal and front crank seal in the timing chain cover as both were leaking very bad. Had to change oil pan and pump to put in a 4wd. Replaced valve cover gaskets, water pump and thermostat too. My screwup was forgetting to check the valve stem seals while I had the motor out. Ended up doing this with the engine in the truck later on and it was alot harder to say the least. You should at least look at them while its out. If they are hard and brittle I would replace. They were completely gone for the most part in my engine.
I had to replace the distributor too, so it was a good time to confirm TDC on the balancer.
I had to replace the distributor too, so it was a good time to confirm TDC on the balancer.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 2
Pulling the heads would be a good idea, just more work. if you might reuse the lifters and rockers be sure you keep them organized as to where they came from and go back .
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
You can look at a bottom bearing or two and see what you have, if they need replaced just pull the crank and do it. they will be marked , if they're oversize you'll know the engine has been rebuilt and what your options are if the crank needs ground again.
By doing all this you'll know exactly what you have and how you want to proceed. better now than after it's in and you're pulling it out again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,862
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The bearings will say on the back. if there's no number they're stock size. if they say fomoco they're probably original.
then you look at the bearings, if you see copper they're shot. then it gets more complicated as the crank will need inspected and measured.
then you look at the bearings, if you see copper they're shot. then it gets more complicated as the crank will need inspected and measured.