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For what you want it actually looks pretty good. the bores look okay, the bearings aren't real bad . you should find the size on the back of them. it's very clean inside and if there is a ridge it looks very minimal. hard to tell in pictures but I doubt this engine has had much use since the rebuild.
I would pull it all apart, hot tank it because the jackets look pretty loaded. put in new cam bearings and a full set of rods and mains. rings are probably okay but you'll know once you pull the pistons. if you kept the pushrods and rockers in order great, if you didn't don't worry about it just put them back in anyway they'll last as long as the rest of the engine no problem. done it many times. lifters should be replaced anyway, if the cam looks good run with it. look the crank over good and maybe polish it.
Your heads are important, pictures would give something to guess on, but I'd have a competent machinist take a look.
Don't get caught up in the " you must " garbage, you're not building a high dollar street rod you just want an engine that runs good and will last a while if I understand you correctly. unless your heads need major work, or you find something unseen in the rest of your teardown it looks to me like for under $500 you are going to have a decent engine. Overall if I were you, I'd be feeling pretty good about it.
I think I am gonna drop the pan on the other lower mileage block, for I think it might be good...maybe LOL. I think the water in it happened when I powerwashed it, not positive, but I can't imagine any other reason it would have water in it. If the bottom end looks bad, then I'll probably go forward with the one we have been discussing. I will keep you posted. Thank you again sir.
Oh, what do you mean the jackets look pretty loaded? Do you mean the cooling jackets throughout?
I'm not sure what is wrong with this engine, looks good to me I'd use it. but if you think the other may be better I'd look. you don't have any water damage.
The cooling jackets just look gunked up. hot tanking is always a good idea but as clean as it looks otherwise you might just be able to blast the jackets out with water. if you did that the cam bearings wouldn't need replaced if they're not worn bad. hot tanking destroys anything except steel.
I'm not sure what is wrong with this engine, looks good to me I'd use it. but if you think the other may be better I'd look. you don't have any water damage.
The cooling jackets just look gunked up. hot tanking is always a good idea but as clean as it looks otherwise you might just be able to blast the jackets out with water. if you did that the cam bearings wouldn't need replaced if they're not worn bad. hot tanking destroys anything except steel.
When hot tanking it, will I have to disassemble the entire engine internally? Not giving up on the engine in question, but thought I should take a look at the other just to see what is what. I will get pictures of that one as well. Thank you again sir.
What I'm seeing is a cylinder that you can't in good faith reassemble like it is.
They are going to charge you a one price to hot tank the block so I would bring everything that you want to have clean for paint and reassembly. Bolts, valve covers, oil pan. rockers, heads, etc.
Great field trip for your class.
What I'm seeing is a cylinder that you can't in good faith reassemble like it is.
They are going to charge you a one price to hot tank the block so I would bring everything that you want to have clean for paint and reassembly. Bolts, valve covers, oil pan. rockers, heads, etc.
Great field trip for your class.
Well, definitely not using the "lower mileage engine" LOL. Pulled the intake and there was a crap ton of rusty material laying in the valley. The 3 or 4 large holes going down the center of the valley seemed rusty and pieces missing from the circle (hole).
So back to the original engine...when I take it to get hot tanked, do I have to remove everything internally, pistons, rods, crank, etc.?
Unless those spots in the cylinder are much worse than they appear they're nothing. I've had spots like those you could feel in the bore and to this day it's had no effect whatsoever. there's perfect, and there's good enough. it all depends on your goals.
To hot tank yes the block has to be completely stripped and the soft plugs pulled. if your intake is not aluminum that can be done also. but you may not need it, if you cand flush the jackets out it may be good enough. the internal engine looks very clean.
Curious, the abnormity of these holes (looks like areas of the circle has flaked off due to rust, or maybe that happened during casting), does it condemn this block? Obviously, it'll need a rebuild, but motor rolled over by hand at the crank freely.
Your other engine looks like a much easier and cheaper project.
Yes sir, definitely cleaner. Didn't know if this would be better since it is probably stock, and the other is .030 over. Hopefully, I can get the bored block up and running reasonably priced.
.030 is usually the first step. I have several engines at .060 over it's common. some can go to .090 . I wouldn't give it a thought.
I would be surprised if you can't get it going pretty cheap and it will be a good engine. the heads will need looked at though , hopefully they're good.
.030 is usually the first step. I have several engines at .060 over it's common. some can go to .090 . I wouldn't give it a thought.
I would be surprised if you can't get it going pretty cheap and it will be a good engine. the heads will need looked at though , hopefully they're good.
There is no way that .060 over on a stock 385 series block and hardware is a recommendation I would give anyone let alone .090 over. I don't even think there's enough material in the block to do it without hitting water. and you're certainly doing none of it on a budget for a motor that's intended to do no more than normal truck duties..
I don't care what anyone says, these bearings are toast. You're down into the copper on many of them, and right next to it on the others. The scoring and grooves tell me there's been junk floating around in the oil and infrequent oil/filter changes. At a minimum the crank needs polished and new bearings installed, but it would take a machinist to look at it and measure to know if it needs turned and undersized bearings used. There should be numbers on the back side of the bearings that will tell you what was done at the last rebuild, similar to the numbers on your piston tops.
Same with the block, you'd need to measure the bores to know if your pistons can be reused with a fresh power hone and new rings. Ford's thinwall block castings were never intended to go much beyond .030/.040max on a rebuild. IMHO, if you've got that much debris in your bearings, you've got that same debris still in your oil passages, and this engine needs to be hot tanked and a full rebuild done. It won't last long at all if you slap it back together, as is.
Originally Posted by dbear75
Okay, about to bombard you with pictures. Sorry in advance LOL
Yes the bearings need replaced. no they're not terrible. the scoring is minimal. the crank is probably okay but it would be a good idea to get it checked, maybe something is worse than it looks in the pictures. UNLESS you really don't want to, and in that case toss in new bearings and forget it.
bores look good. from the hone marks and the lack of any significant ridge you can tell they have little wear.
The other factor is the goal in mind. it's not a high dollar build, he wants to keep it cheap. it's not a high-performance build. and it's not the intent to get 100,000 miles out of it.
I've done plenty of " just make it run " rebuilds on spud trucks and farm pickups and I can assure you I've slapped much worse cases than this together with nothing more than minimal expense and they did their job just fine for years. some are still going. it's easy to get caught up in the quest for perfection, I do it too. but that isn't for everyone. if the OP wants to spend 4-5 k on this I have lots of suggestions.
Personally I would definitely have the crankshaft measured with a micrometer, preferably by someone used to doing this. If it needs ground, I would guess a couple hundred dollars. The bearing cost would be about the same for undersize bearings if the crank needs turned.
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